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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Right leg of the action bar forward portion closer to the action bar sleeve is the fracture point.

There is a notch cut there and EVERY action bar I've seen break on an 1100 or 11-87 (same part)
happens there. The older versions lasted 20-25k rounds before they broke. Newer versions are not as robust from what I am hearing and reading.

It's the natural stress point usually it will crack in a straight, vertical line and you won't even notice it until you take the gun apart for cleaning. The gun will actually continue to function unless the edge of the broken bar drags on the magazine tube. Then you'll know it's broken.
(actually when a forend support breaks and a chip gets wedged, it will do the same thing)

Apply a dab of heavier grease at the fracture point and watch the edge of the notch for burrs that will form "snag and drag" points - which accelerate parts breakage.
 

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At the very end of this video of the 1100 disassembly, he mentions the link must grasp and hold the action spring follower. In my case it does not and the inside of the follower is peened pretty badly. He mentions dressing the link tips with a diamond file, but there's not a lot of metal left on the tines of the link, and that won't do anything for the follower. Is a new link and follower required or advised?


Thanks.
 

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A quick funny story I was working on a gents model 58 the grand dad of the 1100. I cut my finger nasty when working on the inside of the reciever . I was about 30 years old and never put my fingers again in a the inside of a remington auto. This why they say use a Q tip you must or will cut your self bad great info about the 1100. I have had many still have 2 in 20 ga the boys 12 & 9 love them. I wore my 1187 out from geese hunting over the years it was a first year 1187.
 

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I appreciate the advice on the 1100. I have been a diehard hunter and shoot 1100 and 1187 since 1974.
I need some advice on a couple of things. I have a 6 year old 1187 that seems to be a bit more trouble then my 1989 model. I have a cracked action bar sleeve and was hopeing you have advice on how to change that? The action bar is in good shape so i hate to break it while trying to change the sleeve. This gun has also broke two feed latches. My previous guns have gone years and never had that failure? I also had one extractor fall out. I realize now that it was a used extractor that i had and maybe its worn? I had broken a few extractors over the years but never had one come out before?
Now in regards to the greasing of the guns to give them more life. I waterfowl hunt and was wondering if that may backfire, as cold weather and jamming? I never have jamming issues as i keep them clean but have broken a few parts.
I have two old 1100 and the two 11-87. Love them.

Thanks Joe
 

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The action bar sleeve will pop off using a little prying force with a small screwdriver. The action bar will be fine, it actually gives just enough to allow the sleeve to come off. A new one will just snap on.

I run my gun just a little wet (not soaked) just damp with CLP. Works fine in hot and cold weather.
I hope this helps!
 

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petrey10 said:
is this the same for the sporting 12?
My guess would be yes. It is either an 1100 or an 1187 clone so pretty much all the info is interchangeable
 

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Wow, that's quite a list.

I know it might not sound good, but I've shot thousands of rounds through my old 1100 in middle & high school (5 stand) and all my dad taught me to do was wipe down the mag tube, snake the barrel and spray the crap out of everything with RemOil or 3in1 (My dad liked using 3in1 for EVERYTHING) and I swear to you the danged thing NEVER stopped working, nor was it ever given anything but a cursory cleaning and wipe-down.

It was taken to a gunsmith to have the extractor replaced when the gunsmith dropped it on the floor, breaking the mag-tube and ending the life of my favorite shotgun...oh-well.
 

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Thank you for the tips on taking care of the remington 1100. I am the proud owner of one from 1966 as of last week. I have been impressed with the gun so far and can't wait to try it out on the trap range next week. Lucky for me after reading this article I decided to disassemble my gun and to my amazement I found about a pound of mud and dirt coating the receiver, bolt, and trigger assembly. I think the life of my gun may have been cut pretty short had I not checked it out and done a complete cleaning that took almost two hours to get all the dirt out.
 

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northeastm1a said:
A new action spring is 15" long from the factory before it is installed and compressed. 14-1/2" means - it's time to replace.
I just love this place. Thanks {hs# got brave enough today to remove that spring and guess what! It's 14.5 inches. New one ordered and I hope it's the end of my cycling problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
jmclaren said:
How do you remove the action/recoil spring from the metal tube that contains it?
Remove the recoil pad and stock, then CAREFULLY push out the retaining pin for the action spring (it's under compression and if you don't cover the retainer - the spring and retainer will launch violently out of the tube). It's best to cup one hand over the back of the tube and push in on the retainer just slightly so that you can drift the retaining pin out with a small punch); ease off on the spring - allow it to "walk" out against your hand. remove the spring, clean out the tube with a rod & .38/9mm brush (years of caked on oil soaked powder residue will be in there).

The best way is to put the receiver in a vice allowing you both hands to work on the gun, or two people, one to hold the receiver and drift the pin while the other holds down on the retainer.

The new spring should be about 15" long. When the spring is shorter than 14-1/2" it's time to replace it. (about 5,000 rds or whenever the action closes sluggishly on a clean gun) All 1100s/11-87s use the same action spring.
 

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Thank you for the info everyone!
 

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i'm new to the forum and i woul like to know what and where some of the terms are located on my 1100 shotguns...such as "links", "fracture points", "wing parts" etc.. thanks guys or gals.
 

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Go to www.remington.com and download an owner's manual and read it. In 49 years shooting 9 different 1100s/11-87s, I have broken one extractor, in 1982 on a 1963 gun, and I replaced one fore end support that was starting to crack. In millions of guns, I suppose every part has broken at one time or another on one gun. Don't worry about it, and don't go replacing parts if you ever have a problem until you are really sure what the problem is. A lot of parts have been changed and money spent to no avail. BTW, my newest 1100 is over 30 years old, and I have yet to replace an action spring. I replaced a buffer I thought was about gone, and the new one looked the same in about 100 rounds. That was 44 years ago.
 

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What can be done for these guns that have around 10,000 rounds through them, ran flawlessly up untill this point?

The gun cycles the shells great up untill the last 1/4" of getting the shell into the chamber. Trigger gets pulled and click, nothing. Slam the bolt the rest of the way forward, and BOOM.
 

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cupped&killed said:
What can be done for these guns that have around 10,000 rounds through them, ran flawlessly up untill this point?

The gun cycles the shells great up untill the last 1/4" of getting the shell into the chamber. Trigger gets pulled and click, nothing. Slam the bolt the rest of the way forward, and BOOM.
I'm no expert by any means, but I would probably start with making sure the mag tube was clean, as well as the gas ring on the barrel and the pistons themselves. Then I would make sure the chamber was clean, as build up could keep a round from seating completely. If that was all good, then I would check length of action spring and clean the spring tube. Replace spring if needed. If all of that is good, then I would visit a gunsmith, but someone on here will probably know more than that. Most all problems I have ever had with 1100's have been "cured" with a good cleaning, though YMMV. It does seem strange to me that the trigger would "click" and then all you have to do is seat the round fully and pull the trigger again and have the round go off. I would have figured the hammer would need to be recocked if it truly fell.
 
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