Recently took this in on a trade and was wondering if anyone knows anything about it. It's pretty clean, few hunting marks, normal wear on wood and metal. It's marked "Magnum" on the receiver and says it takes 2 3/4 or 3" magnum on the barrel. I was told it was an early 80's gun. It has a 28" fixed full choke barrel. I was wondering how it would be for an all around bird gun from doves to ducks. Can steel shot be fired thru it? What is it worth roughly? I would rather have one of the Rem choked barrels but I don't know if they are interchangable with this model or not. A smith has told me that he will chop it to 26" and tap it for Tru-Chokes for about $80, good idea?
1100LW Magnum 20 gauge
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First off; leave the barrel at 28" because given the full choke it will give the gunsmith a little more "meat" when he taps the threads.
No full would be too tight for steel, mod would be better and IC probably ideal, depend how/what and where you were shooting.
Don't know about the barrel switch on you particular model, if it were a 12 bore then most any 1100 12 gauge barrel would fit just fine.
I have a 12 gauge 870 Wingmaster, bought by me in the early seventys that had Browning tube installed in the mid-eighties, best thing I ever did to the gun.
:idea: Should make a damn fine all around gun after you have choke tubes installed! 8)
No full would be too tight for steel, mod would be better and IC probably ideal, depend how/what and where you were shooting.
Don't know about the barrel switch on you particular model, if it were a 12 bore then most any 1100 12 gauge barrel would fit just fine.
I have a 12 gauge 870 Wingmaster, bought by me in the early seventys that had Browning tube installed in the mid-eighties, best thing I ever did to the gun.
:idea: Should make a damn fine all around gun after you have choke tubes installed! 8)
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Easier for him but less thread material for the choke tubes to grab on to!lik2hunt said:
I was advised when I had my 870 tubed to leave the choke in place so there would be extra material for the threads.
Since I spent close to ten years running screw machines and cutting millions of both id and OD threads I thought it was a reasonable idea.
The reason behind this is because the older non-tube Remington barrels are much thinner the the current tube barrels by about half comparing my 870 to my 1187.
This is just the reason Brily(sp) came out with their thin-wall choke tubes.
:idea:At least that's my take on the subject?
:arrow: If anything I would think it would increase the value over a non-choke tubed gun.
Lik2hunt- Does this gun have a vent rib Barrel?lik2hunt said:
Wb- Seems like alot of work being done for $80. Hardly sounds easier to cut barrel, thread barrel for chokes, braze or solder vent rib, install front bead, re-blue vs cut threads into barrel as is? Am I missing something? One way is big time more labor intensive than the other, so which is the best way vs easiest?
I talked to him again today and he insists that is virtually impossible to just cut and recrown the barrel.....and be able to promise what choking would be left. And yes it is a vent rib barrel. He says that yes the barrel is tooo thin for Rem chokes and that he can't do it without removing the choking first. May have to get a second opinion. :?
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:arrow: Yes, a rem-choke barrel is about twice the thickness as the older non-tube barrelslik2hunt said:
There are chokes (thin wall) available and they work just as well as Rem-chokes do.
Another option is to have the choke opened to IC, fine for most upland or clays and with the three inch steel you will get about a mod choke which is what I used for ducks back in the old lead days.
:arrow: Haven't used anything tighter the mod since the invention of plastic hulls and shot cups.(yeah I'm that old!) :lol:
I'm a Mod choke guy myself. My original request was just to cut the barrel back enough to remove the tightness of the full and leave a mod or even imp mod barrel. Not gonna happen tho I guess, actually the more I think about it, the more I like the idea of having the different tubes to choose from. Ought to be covered from dove/quail to ducks/geese.
Called Remington today and found out that this is a 1971 gun. No Rem-choke barrels available for this model. In fact, no barrels form Remington at all available for my gun. They directed me to corsonsbarrels.com for another barrel. Looked at the site and while the price is a little high it might be an option. The nice lady I talked with at Remington also suggested that I get some gaurantee on the smiths work as she said some mess up the threads and then with no gaurantee, I'd just be stuck with it.
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http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=53243
This is one of the STICKYS in the gunsmithing forum here on SGW.
Jeremiah
This is one of the STICKYS in the gunsmithing forum here on SGW.
Jeremiah
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lik2hunt,
Check the OD and ID of your barrel , then go to Mike Orlen's website . It shows what systems can be installed in barrels not well suited for OEM thread systems . The thin-wall systems are good and Mike Orlen has vast experience in installing them and there are a bunch of economical and good choke tubes , extended and flush , for the TW systems .
421
Check the OD and ID of your barrel , then go to Mike Orlen's website . It shows what systems can be installed in barrels not well suited for OEM thread systems . The thin-wall systems are good and Mike Orlen has vast experience in installing them and there are a bunch of economical and good choke tubes , extended and flush , for the TW systems .
421
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