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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are my 12 gauge Lyman 525 grn sabot recipes, if any one is interested. I posted the 3 1/2 load on the "farthest slug attempt" post, but I will post it here as well.

All of my 12 gauge loads, are loaded in new Fiocchi primed hulls, with the hard cast Lyman sabot slug. The Federal 12C1 wad is used in all of them as well, and they are all roll crimped.

2 3/4 inch hulls, 45 grns Blue Dot 1500fps

3 inch hulls, 50 grns Blue Dot 1700fps

3 1/2 hulls, 55 grns Blue Dot 1850fps
with a Ballistic Products BPGS gas seal under the wad

All these loads shot out of a clean and dry barrel, have shot great groups out of every gun I ran them through, providing you have a crisp trigger, and don't flinch.

Disclaimer: Lyman did not publish a load using the 12C1 wad. That I worked up, trying to come out with an accuate load. Lyman also never published a 3 1/2 load. I worked that one up myself as well. Load at your own risk. I added this not because I feel these loads are dangerous, but because I have no idea of the condition, of the gun you are going to shoot them out of.

If the disclaimer scares you .... You better stop shooting factory loads as well. Every reloading manual, and every box of shells you buy, has a disclaimer written in, or on it somewhere.

I have been using these loads for over 10 years now with no problems. Once again, clean dry barrels, crisp clean trigger, a small target, and no flinching, will give you a great group, with these loads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
In responce to a PM someone sent me .... They wanted to know why there is 200fps between the 2 3/4 and 3 inch powder charge, and only 150fps between the 3 and 3 1/2 inch powder charge, when there is anoth 5 grns of powder?

Well most of the slug barrels out there are only 24 inches long, at the maximum, and you run out of barrel, before you run out of powder :shock: with the 55 grn powder charge.
 

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Thanks wiley h. :D
I have about 50 hard cast Lyman 525 slugs.
I'll have to root around and see if I have the Federal wads tho.
I tried the Lyman loads in the AA red wads and they were terrible.
The AA red wads shredded in the barrel, probably getting pinched off in the forcing cone.
Any one else try the Lyman 525 in any other wad besides the Federal and AA wads?
I think I have some loose Federal wads but not marked, just loose and darned if I can remember what they look like.
Duh! :oops:
 

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Interesting, never had that problem with the AA YELLOW wads.
And that was before I polished the forcing cone. A rough
forcing cone or bore that has machining marks usually will
separate the petals on a AA wad. You can minimize the amputation by polishing both. Lead lapping works best.
Ever since the AA case went to the 3 piece configuration.
(Case base,reinforcing internal collar inside the bottom of the
case and thinner hull I have had much worse performance)

The old 2 piece AA cases never gave me a hiccup. Shot great.
I always flooded the base with SIG resin and it seemed to work the best for me.

The nice thing about the federal (brown wads) is that they are substantially thicker than the AA and do not disintegrate as fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had the problem with the AA wads not reaching the rifling lands, in about half of the guns I tried them out of. It was like shooting them out of a smooth bore .... They were all over the place at 50 yards.

Finding the 12C1 wad is going to be the toughest part. I pick up 2 cases on Ebay this last summer. I paid twice what they were worth. Then to top it off, I had to pay shipping from Alaska to Wisconsin :?

Anyways I think allot of you that had bad luck loading, and shooting the Lyman sabots, are about to be a whole lot happier.

Now the 20 gauge Lyman sabot was and still is a nightmare for me. I had the load perfected, using the Activ wad, and now I can't find them either. Anyone with a bunch of 20 gauge Activ wads, that want to get rid of them, please let me know. I want them bad :shock:

The next problem I had with the Lyman 20 gauge slug, was the skirt was to thin, and it crushed when fired. I put the core pin in my lathe and took some off of it. Making the sabot into almost an ounce (427 grns), but now it holds its shape. Remember, that it is not so much the weight that builds pressure, but the barrel contact is what builds most of your pressure. That is why I like the Lyman sabot, it has very little barrel contact. Therefore, I was never affraid to add a little weight to the sabot.

Anyone wanting any more advice on loading the Lyman sabot slug, let me know. I will help if I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
jeager106, the wad is a 2 piece wad. They are clear, with either a red or pink gas seal. I hope you have some :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am going to add one more thing I want to stress. Make sure the sabots you are using, are 100% wheel weight lead, or harder. Anything softer will deform the skirt on the sabot, causing accuracy problems, and cutting the petals off of your wad.

If you casted your own, out of wheel weights, and you are still cutting the petals .... your pressures are to high. Time to change the recipe :shock:
 

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I have tied all the wads mentioned and the Alcan #4. The petals come off all of them in my USH, but all are accurate. Recovered petals show good rifling marks so I don't think it's a forcing cone issue. My barrel has been lapped and at all different pressures this accures. I think mabe the slugs are more accurate because the petals are already off the base wad. I was thinking of using a two piece Teflon liner and a base wad-gas seal similar to a BRI set up.
 

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I've done what you have mentioned in the last part of your post last year. At short range it is not a problem. At longer ranges it rises to a new level inaccuracy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You guys that are cutting the petals off of the wads, are using to soft of sabots. If they are true hard cast, they won't cut the petals off :D

You are also loosing accuracy, because the soft slugs are deforming when fired. It also raises the pressure go up the forcing cone in your barrel.
 

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I get my slugs from Gardners Cache they claim they are a hard lead mix. Even though the petals come off they group one ragged hole at 50yds. and 2 1/2" at 100yrds, so let them come off. None of the mentioned wads are made for slugs, too soft and leave alot of plastic fouling.
 

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wileyhunter said:
I had the problem with the AA wads not reaching the rifling lands, in about half of the guns I tried them out of. It was like shooting them out of a smooth bore .... They were all over the place at 50 yards.

Finding the 12C1 wad is going to be the toughest part. I pick up 2 cases on Ebay this last summer. I paid twice what they were worth. Then to top it off, I had to pay shipping from Alaska to Wisconsin :?

Anyways I think allot of you that had bad luck loading, and shooting the Lyman sabots, are about to be a whole lot happier.

Now the 20 gauge Lyman sabot was and still is a nightmare for me. I had the load perfected, using the Activ wad, and now I can't find them either. Anyone with a bunch of 20 gauge Activ wads, that want to get rid of them, please let me know. I want them bad :shock:

The next problem I had with the Lyman 20 gauge slug, was the skirt was to thin, and it crushed when fired. I put the core pin in my lathe and took some off of it. Making the sabot into almost an ounce (427 grns), but now it holds its shape. Remember, that it is not so much the weight that builds pressure, but the barrel contact is what builds most of your pressure. That is why I like the Lyman sabot, it has very little barrel contact. Therefore, I was never affraid to add a little weight to the sabot.

Was the wad your looking for the W-28 or the W32 if it is the W-28 Pm me. I think I still have around 50 or 60 of them.

Anyone wanting any more advice on loading the Lyman sabot slug, let me know. I will help if I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
eye shot said:
I get my slugs from Gardners Cache they claim they are a hard lead mix. Even though the petals come off they group one ragged hole at 50yds. and 2 1/2" at 100yrds, so let them come off. None of the mentioned wads are made for slugs, too soft and leave alot of plastic fouling.
The slugs eye shot was shooting where probably almost all hard lead. I am very glad they grouped for you. So yes, if the petals come off the wads, and you still have good accuracy, GREAT!

For the most part, I am just trying to help those people that are still having accuracy problem. Sorry eye shot, but you are not having accuacy problems, so I think you are doing great, as long as you are happy.

I will try to help anyone wanting to load and shoot the Lyman sabot slug. I spent countless days trying to perfect this slug load, and then I did it. What I know now can save people allot of headaches, that I had way back when, just by sharing what I learned.
 

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Wiley:
That's what it's all about ol' bud. Helping one another without bashing each other for shooting what they can afford to shoot.
The vast majority of s.g. hunters use switch barrel guns with Mossy 500, and 870 Express leading the pack because of cost factors.
Getting those guns tweaked and tuned, and loads you can brew at home, is the ticket!
The single shot Ultra Slug Hunter has some merit and I have one I use as a test platform but the thing is gawdawful heavy.
Best hunt with that gun from a tree stand.
The bolt actions might very well be the way to go but the pump is and remains THE s.g. of choice in the U.S.
Like the lever action rifle, the pump action shottie is an American tradition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
jeager, you just made me think of a problem with most pump gun .... Or should I say, the shooters of the slug guns. I am sure a few people will jump on this one and try to prove me wrong :?

Anyways, when shooting off of your rest, never put your forearm of a pump action shotgun, on the rest. The pump wiggles as the slug travels up and out of the barrel. So always rest on the magazine cap, when shooting for accuacy, with a pump gun :)
 

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As you mention, the federal 12c1 wads are hard to find. I found these Claybuster wads at Midway that claim to be a replacement. What do you think? I just bought a Savage 210f and I have most of what I need to start loading these Lyman slugs. Thanks for all your info!!!!

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OH NO!!!

If my eyes are not playing trick on me, that wad has a rib on the petals. That will make it hard to load, and hard to load in your gun, if you get the shell loaded. The rib won't hurt a hard cast Lyman sabot, but it will make things over sized, and out of round :shock: I would look for a different wad :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The WAA12 is a tapered wad, meant for a tapered hull. Do not use it in the Fiocchi hull. You will have powder creeping up by the gas seal on the wad. Next you also won't have the diameter, to reach the lands in the barrel. You can try it, but go by Lymans recipe, and not mine.

Just giving you the facts, eh :D
 
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