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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am getting set up to start reloading 20 gauge shells, and would like to make use of about 500 Cheddite hulls that I have on hand. Once those are gone, I plan to buy several flats of Remington shells for the hulls. I was given 500 WAA20 wads from a friend along with a recipe supposedly from the Lyman manual (which I currently have on order). The load calls for:

Cheddite hull, 17 gr Universal, 7/8 shot, Cheddite primer, WAA20 wad, 1197 fps, 7800 psi.

Can anyone verify that this load is published in the Lyman manual? Mine won't be here until sometime next week. Thanks for the help!
 

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What is the reason that Cheddite hulls should not be used in tubes? Just curious as I'm about to install tubes in one of my guns so I can hopefully improve my scores above what I've been able to do with 4 separate guns.
 

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Be advised that that load goes against common wisdom. Straight wall hull and a Tapered wall wad. While it might work very acceptable, It's not one that I would recommend.

Best results would be using a wad designed for a straight wall hull. In domestic wads there is only the expensive Federal 20S1. However,the new Windjammer Blue wad is reported to work very well in Straight wall cases, as well as in tapered wall cases. This is the wad I would recommend for the cases you have.

Load data is the same as that using the WAA wads.

DLM
 

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bronicadave said:
What is the reason that Cheddite hulls should not be used in tubes? Just curious as I'm about to install tubes in one of my guns so I can hopefully improve my scores above what I've been able to do with 4 separate guns.
Tube manufacturers recommend the use of Rem STS, or Winchester AA. Steel bases can and will stick in your tubes due to swelling. Brass base hulls operate more reliably in tubes.
 

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As a Skeet shooter using Briley tubes for approx. 25 years, I can answer that question.

Cheddite hulls have STEEL case heads. Steel case heads are very prone to stick in the chambers of tube sets. Steel case heads expand upon firing, but do not retract when the pressure drops off. Brass case heads do in fact retract in diameter when the pressure drops off, and thus eject freely.

Only Remington STS, (and Nitro 27 ammo), AA's, and Federal Gold Medal ammo have brass case heads. ALL others have Steel case heads. Some look like brass, but that's only a brass colored wash over the steel, to retard rust.

SO, If you shoot tubes, it's important to stick with hulls that have Brass case heads. In 20 gauge, the sts hulls are the best out there for reloading, followed by AA's, while in 28 ga. and 410, AA's are far and away the better hull for reloading.

DLM
 

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The economics probably are not right, but I bought STS 20 ga hulls off gunbroker several years ago and load them exclusively. I can assure you that they are an excellent hull to reload.
Buying hulls is an option to consider.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
D L Marcum said:
Be advised that that load goes against common wisdom. Straight wall hull and a Tapered wall wad. While it might work very acceptable, It's not one that I would recommend.

Best results would be using a wad designed for a straight wall hull. In domestic wads there is only the expensive Federal 20S1. However,the new Windjammer Blue wad is reported to work very well in Straight wall cases, as well as in tapered wall cases. This is the wad I would recommend for the cases you have.

Load data is the same as that using the WAA wads.

DLM
In short, I would like to make use of the hulls I have on hand until I can accumulate some STS hulls.
 

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jbrooster said:
D L Marcum said:
Be advised that that load goes against common wisdom. Straight wall hull and a Tapered wall wad. While it might work very acceptable, It's not one that I would recommend.

Best results would be using a wad designed for a straight wall hull. In domestic wads there is only the expensive Federal 20S1. However,the new Windjammer Blue wad is reported to work very well in Straight wall cases, as well as in tapered wall cases. This is the wad I would recommend for the cases you have.

Load data is the same as that using the WAA wads.

DLM
In short, I would like to make use of the hulls I have on hand until I can accumulate some STS hulls.
To be brief, then get some different wads to put in the Cheddites; the AA wads are not suitable for use in those hulls. Use federal wads or wads for Euro hulls from BPI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you Nebs. I assumed that it may be suitable since Lyman published the load, but I guess I will have to order some different wads.
 

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lt0026 said:
bronicadave said:
What is the reason that Cheddite hulls should not be used in tubes? Just curious as I'm about to install tubes in one of my guns so I can hopefully improve my scores above what I've been able to do with 4 separate guns.
Tube manufacturers recommend the use of Rem STS, or Winchester AA. Steel bases can and will stick in your tubes due to swelling. Brass base hulls operate more reliably in tubes.
I just had installed Briley tubes in my 20ga to shoot 28ga and and all the hulls that I reloaded except rem, win and fed, swells up and will not eject
 

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You have 500 WAA20 wads and a published load for them. Use them. Likely they will be more than adequate. When those are done, evaluate whether you desire to order more of those or something else.
 

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jbrooster,

The Cheddite hull load with WAA20 wads is a tested and published load. The problem lies that some of the gas from the burning of the powder will escape around the base of the wad, so the recipe is not as efficient. Also, when the load was tested it was loaded and shot. I am not familiar with Universal powder, if it is a fine grained powder that powder can migrate pass the base of the wad that could lead to bloopers if the shells are carried a lot in a hunting vest.

So while you wait for your proper wads to arrive you can go ahead and make up some of those loads just to shoot some Skeet with. Just load up what you need for the shoot and shoot them up. Carrying the shells back and forth to and from the range can cause the powder to migrate past the wad.

Jason
 

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I just held a Claybuster WW20 wad base to base with a Windjammer 20. They're the same size. The Federal F20S1 may be a better choice if 'gas blow-by' or 'powder migration' worries you.

I'd certainly load and try some of WW20s before trashing them.
 

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Alliant, Hodgdon, and Lymans ALL publish loads using various "tapered wall wads" (CB, RXP, AA) in straight wall cases (Cheddite and Federal.) This is true for 12 gauge AND 20 gauge. These wads many not be ideal for these cases, and the reasons have been discussed many times, but it is quite a stretch to say that the three most popular sources are all publishing loads that are NOT SUITABLE.

If someone was buying a case of wads to use in 20 gauge straight wall hulls he would be well advised to avoid AA type wads. The OP wants to use up ONE BAG of wads. On this site the phrase "if it's published, it's safe" pops up pretty darned regular. In this case it is published, multiple times, in multiple sources. Is it ideal? No. If the OP wants to load up two flats, take them to a skeet range and shoot in moderately warm temperatures, he will likely have no problems.

Lymans list a total of 15 loads in 20 gauge Cheddite cases. Of those fifteen, a total of 3 (20%) use "straight wall" wads. So, 80% of the loads Lymans lists are not suitable? They list 56 loads in straight wall Federal cases. Of these they use the "straight wall" wads in a total of 13. So with the Federal cases that is 77% using wads that are not suitable. For Fiocchi hulls there are 31 loads with a total of 5 using "straight wall" wads. For three of the more popular straight wall hulls available, roughly 80% of the recipes Lymans publishes are using wads that are not suitable? AND guess what: flip another page to the Lymans 20 gauge tapered wall data and you see some "straight wall wads" used in tapered wall hulls.
 

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Is using the AA20 wad in a Cheddite hull ideal? No. Will it work, yes. But I still think you should save the those Win wads until you have a stash of Rem hulls. You're going to have to get more wads either way.
 

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Nebs said:
Is using the AA20 wad in a Cheddite hull ideal?
So what would you use in the Cheddites? Windjammers offer no advantage, and if the Cheddite hull prefers a longer wad, they would be a disadvantage.
 

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ShowMe said:
Nebs said:
Is using the AA20 wad in a Cheddite hull ideal?
So what would you use in the Cheddites? Windjammers offer no advantage, and if the Cheddite hull prefers a longer wad, they would be a disadvantage.
As I said previously:

Use federal wads or wads for Euro hulls from BPI.
 
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