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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please forgive my ignorance.. I have never been around a mec 9000 in operation until I got mine, which was last week, it is used and has loaded about 250 rounds, I bought everything the guy had, according to him, and counting how many missing wads and primers there were in my box of goodies I'm sure the 250 count is correct..Now the question, does the loader normally return the upstroke by itsself or should I have to push it up, mine is hanging about 1 inch from the top, I have cleaned and lubed every moving part on it, I loaded 125 rounds last night, the main spring doesnt seen strong enough to return it to the top, or maybe something is binding? thanks!
 

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It certainly could the the return spring but when mine starts hanging up on the upstroke, it's almost always because the collet in the resizer is in need of lubrication. There is a sticky at the top of the forum with excellent instructions from Curly-Nohair about how to lube the collet.
 

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Your main spring is fine,it only assits in raising the head and keeps it
up once it is at the top.Keep your hand on the handle until you reach
the top of the stroke.Lube your collet.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pickman said:
It certainly could the the return spring but when mine starts hanging up on the upstroke, it's almost always because the collet in the resizer is in need of lubrication. There is a sticky at the top of the forum with excellent instructions from Curly-Nohair about how to lube the collet.
Looks like im a 1%er
I completely disabled the resizer and it still drags..
it does have two wear marks on the main bar, about 1/4"wide right down the middle, on the front and right side, here is a pic. is this normal? thanks!

 

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blkcloud1,

If you have thoroughly lubed the Collet, then your problem is with the Collet actuating rod that works in a groove on the back side of the column.

The actuating rod is a square rod, fitting in a square slot in the backside of the column. Best deal is to unhook whatever necessary, remove the screw and roller from the lower end of the collet actuating rod, and remove the column from the base assy.

You can then remove the actuating rod. Caution!!! This rod has a slight bend in it. DO NOT straighten this rod. That bend is intentional and was put there for a purpose.

Clean the rod and the slot it works in thoroughly, and relube with a quality grease such as Mobil 1 grease or any good molly grease of thin consistancy, and re-assemble. THis should cure your problems.

Dis-regard those wear marks on the column. Lube the column with the same grease you used on the actuating rod and forget about the wear marks.

DLM
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I disasembled the resizer cleaned it real good with gun scrubber and greased it with moly grease, I also wd-40ed the actuating rod really good, it still hangs but its not as bad as it was, i'm going to live with it, way too much trouble to take it all apart, I'm going to add a automate and then I wont know anything is dragging..I hope. thanks!
 

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blkcloud1 said:
I disasembled the resizer cleaned it real good with gun scrubber and greased it with moly grease, I also wd-40ed the actuating rod really good, it still hangs but its not as bad as it was, i'm going to live with it, way too much trouble to take it all apart, I'm going to add a automate and then I wont know anything is dragging..I hope. thanks!
Just a reminder. WD-40 is a water displacer, and IS NOT a lubricant. It will evaporate in a few hours and leave nothing even remotely relative to a lubricant. It's worthless in the application we are speaking of.

DLM
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I guess like many I have used the wd40 for years for everyting, I dont completely agree its not a lubricant, I wiki ed it and here is what was said. I'm positive there are better choices but I do think its a lubricant. thanks!

Function
The long term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus get into crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then itself diffuses away.[citation needed]

These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, extricating stuck screws and bolts, and preventing rust are common usages. The product also may be useful in removing moisture.
 

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blkcloud1 said:
I guess like many I have used the wd40 for years for everyting, I dont completely agree its not a lubricant, I wiki ed it and here is what was said. I'm positive there are better choices but I do think its a lubricant. thanks!

Function
The long term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus get into crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then itself diffuses away.[citation needed]

These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, extricating stuck screws and bolts, and preventing rust are common usages. The product also may be useful in removing moisture.
And just what would you expect their marketing group to say ????? Pure BS

Place a new thread titled "Is WD-40 a good lubricant" and see what you get. That just may open your eyes.

DLM
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm not trying to argue, and dont want to, I appreciate your help and advise, I've never had anyone tell me not to use it, I have used it for years and have never had anything fail because of it, My old 1100 has over 7000 rounds through it and to my knowledge there has never been anything other than wd40 used on it..and it still purs today, I bought it in 1982.

And just what would you expect their marketing group to say ????? Pure BS

what does the marketing group of your favorite spray lubricant say? thanks!
 

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blkcloud1 said:
I'm not trying to argue, and dont want to, I appreciate your help and advise, I've never had anyone tell me not to use it, I have used it for years and have never had anything fail because of it, My old 1100 has over 7000 rounds through it and to my knowledge there has never been anything other than wd40 used on it..and it still purs today, I bought it in 1982.

And just what would you expect their marketing group to say ????? Pure BS

what does the marketing group of your favorite spray lubricant say? thanks!
BTW, DLM is correct on the lube quality of WD-40. After 30+ years in the printing industry and seeing the non-benefit of WD-40, I can assure you that he ain't wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Don't doubt his word or yours at all, I have ran a machine shop for 30 plus years, everything from a hammer and a chisel to my new $70K Milltronics cnc lathe..we buy wd 40 in 5 gallon containers and refill the hand pump spray bottles, I also use Aero Kroil, best penetrating spray there has ever been..hands down, I use Bosheild, $25 per spray can.I have had almost everything known to man short of a nuclear missle brought into my shop to be repaired at one time or another, I'm sure it will happen, but as of today, I have never had anything brought to me for repair where the guy said..I sprayed wd40 on this and now it has gauled, seized, or worn out because of it.. to each its own, if I were limited to one spray from now own..i'd pick the big four zero.. :wink:
 
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