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I have a new 12 gauage. I have purchased some Truoil and I was wondering what I had to do to it before I put a couple of coats of Truoil on it. How many coats and what do I need to do to finish off the Truoil?
 

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Tape off the checkering & metal. Buff it down with Acetone and a lint free cloth. I did mine about 4 or five times to make sure it was good and clean. I used Tung oil instead of truoil. I applied 4 coats, and smoothed it up with 0000 stell wool between coats.
 

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Here's what I did after pouring over advice on the internet, and my own experience on 5 or so guns. Gotta admit I was a little nervous doing a brand new gun, but it turned out great. Pics of how mine turned out on Shotgun World (pics), search for Yildiz. Just noticed Tim's too! Nice job man...

#1 Pull ALL HARDWARE off the WOOD! Carefull with the screw cap on the outside of the forearm stock Can be tight.. also lets you seal the whole gun from water (rain).

I just stripped all hardware off the stocks, then alternated wiping the (new) wood down with acetone and hot blow drying the wood- to leach the oil out, to try to lighten it a little bit (and that's about all it did was a little).

Masked off all the checkering/ carefully razor cut the edges off with blue 3M masking tape (several times throughout the process) It saves tons of time cleaning up later I think and is the only way the stock will look professionally done.

Smoothed out with 600 (as the stock was already new and smooth)

Sanded in a 50/50-60/40 mix of tru-oil and mineral spirits 2 or 3 times to fill the grain and get the thinned oil deep into the wood (IMPORTANT: Let the "slurry" of wood and oil dry each time and sanded back off with another 600 w/d paper and oil mix). I also started sealing all the endgrain and all the hidden wood at this time with the same mixture (no sanding though!).

Then I started with about a 60/40 up to 70/30 mix (one THIN coat every day or two depending on the humidity) and knocked down high spots with a grey abrasive pad (steel wool alternative that leaves no metal in your wood). The last three "buildup" coats were 60/40 and applied real thin and real carefully (no runs!).

About 14-16 coats total. Not a job for the impatient... When you start screwing that shiny white metal back onto the "new" wood, and it all just "pops", it's all worth it! I do plan on dulling it down a little with some rottenston/pumice when I get a chance.

I got a 60 degree curved medium checkering file from Brownells to clean out dried oil the outside checkering line and "point up" and checkering that I thought needed it.

Checkering was just four coats of thinned tru-oil painted on with a small artists brush, allowed to sit for a minute, and wiped completely out of the checkering with a terrycloth towel, as you want no buildup on the checkering.

Although I've refinished five guns before. I got a lot of this advice doing this from right here on ShotgunWorld. Someone at SGW gave me the tip of adding marbles or clean stones into the tru-oil bottle as you use it to keep it full; this keeps the extra air out of the bottle and keeps tru-oils drying agents from hardening it inside. Great tip!

The tru-oil looks great (it better after 16 freak'in coats!), but the next gun I'm trying the Watco? floor finish (heard a lot of good stuff about it, but it drys real fast too, reducing working time).
 
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