heat em up to red, roll in casenet, reheat to red, put in water. Not sure what color you'll get. ferric cloride [ from Radio Shack ] colors my hardened knives to a gray color. cut it 50/50 with water. dry and oil it good. Paul
Kasenit is just what it sounds like. It is used to put a case-hardened surface on small soft parts. When applied..the part is heated, swirled in the Kasenit, reheat and them quenched. There will be a crusty finish on the part. By the time you polish this off, the prt will have the bright steel look again.
For a gray color, polish the part and dip it for a very short time in Muratic acid. A 50-50 mix...ACID into WATER (not the other way around), will give the gray you'e looking for.
You will need to keep this part well oiled or grease, because it will rust.
IF the screws are heat treatable steel they will be glass hard after you quench them. They will break if you tork them hard.
Why not polish them up nice in the drill chuck. Once they look good heat them just past blue and drop them in 3 in 1 oil. Do not make them cherry red. They will look fire blued. You can also use Hoppies and linseed 50/50. I keep an old brass shotshell to hold the oil just for this.
The ferric cloride is for color only. May be easier to find other acids. Put a dab of mustard on it, let dry over night and wash off. I also use the mustard finish to make knives look a hundred years old. Play around with what's in the house- mustard, vinegar, onions, bleach- anything with acid. When you find what works the best it's your job to report back and let us know. Paul
Kasenet is use only for mild steel to put a case hardness on the material. For an example, a flintlock frizzen made from mild steel. The center will still be soft, though good ones are carbon steel . You can tell if the steel if hardenable by heating to red hot and checking with a magnet- if a magnet won't stick to it it can be dropped in oil [ or water, but may crack if water is used ] . It's then hard and has to be drawn back at the proper temp for whatever use it's intended for. Paul
Here's a recently greyed fore end metal using ferric chloride ( the Radio Shack circuit board etchant cut 50% with water) I highly polished it to remove the rust freckling under the original blue, then greyed it and now is a nice soft grey.
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