All I do is go down and grab the baffle with a needle nose pliers and twist. If what remains on the side walls bothers you a dremil with a bit will remove that.duks said:Okay, thanks again for putting up with my tedious questions, and I will try drilling out a red baffle! Bill
This certainly was my experience. I never did have a wad left in the barrel but I had 4-5 in every box where it felt and sounded like there could be a wad left in the barrel. Biggest mistake I made: using a new powder (popular for years, but new to me) and loading four flats. Now I WILL NOT load more than 4 bixes of something new till I go out and shoot a couple boxes. Since then I have been through 3-4 jugs if 700X with a bored out baffle and no problems.D L Marcum said:Emphatically NO!!! 2 things are working against you. First the baffle it'self. (won't hold a candle to the red plastic PC baffle). Secondly 700X does NOT meter well with any baffle, period.
For use with 700X, it's been found that the red plastic PC baffle, with it's internal baffle removed works best. It controls powder migration at the bottle/bar junction, and removes all friction at this point, but with 700X, it works best without an internal baffle.
That combination is known to bind the Mec Bar and it is suggested to not use the brass piece furnished with the baffle. This is all tested, measured and proven by our own member, Republican.FldTrlr said:Albatros wrote: "The metal version does nothing to improve the seal to the charge bar. The red plastic version is made by the Downrange wad people. It has a spring loaded plastic sleeve that rides on the charge bar and is a big improvement over the original Mec brass/rubber washer arrangement."
Don't want to start a p...... contest, but both of my newer Multiscale metal baffles have spring loaded "plastic sleeves". When used with the included flat brass washer and a MEC rubber grommet they provide a pretty decent powder seal. Improved drop consistency is another matter altogether.