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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an older, although practically new, Browning Citori, Grd III. It was won at a DU banquet in the late 80's by my dad. He never shot it and has given it to me. I took it out to the 5-stand today and didnt do too bad. The only thing I had a problem with was using the safety/barrel selector switch on doubles. It is made so that you have to move the selector to safe before you switch barrels. I was shooting the under first, so to switch to the over I had to pull the safety back, push it over to the left, then push it back up to take it off safe and fire the second shot. I was trying to do this without looking at the switch, almost unconciously, but fumbled over it on several occasions. My thumb doesnt naturally sit on the switch, so I have to feel for it when I go to switch. Is there anything I can do, other than sit here with the stock to my cheek practicing the motion, to help with this?

Thanks!
 

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You don't have to use the barrel selector between shots. Whichever barrel you fire first, the second will fire when you release, then pull the trigger.

The barrel selector is used only to determine which barrel fires first. Most folks set it on the lower barrel and forget about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
DrMike said:
You don't have to use the barrel selector between shots. Whichever barrel you fire first, the second will fire when you release, then pull the trigger.
I wish this one worked that way, but it doesnt. I thought it did when I went for the first report pair. I shot the first target and then squeezed on the second.... no fire. I switched to the over barrel with the selector and shot another single. Emptied both chambers and loaded again for a report pair. First bird broke, squeeze on the second and again no fire. No click, no hammer strike, nothing. I can only assume that it is made to be shot that way. If there is anything else I can do to test this I will be happy to try it. I loaded a couple of snap caps when I got home to try it again just to be sure. Still worked the same way.
 

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If in some case it doesn't do just what DrMike says, then it needs a bit of tuning by a gunsmith. (I believe that gun is inertia switched and something might be gummed up.)

However I would bet DrMike is right on. I once knew a guy that sold a perfectly good, mechanical trigger O/U, because he "couldn't shoot skeet doubles", because he believed the same thing. Nothing wrong with the gun, the guy just thought that he had to do the same thing.

Clyde
 

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Snap caps won't prove nothing. The trigger switches by the recoil of the first shot. Two things that could mess that up are; trapping the trigger, not releasing it all the way forward after the first shot and not holding the stock firmly to your shoulder when firing. If those two don't fix it then the oil in the trigger mechanism is thicken and needs to be cleaned up. Take it to a gun smith since it seems you are unfamiliar with the O/U designs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the quick replies! Is there something that I can check that will let me know what is gummed? If not I will get it to a gunsmith and see what he says about it. It has been sitting for nearly 20 years. I cleaned it and oiled it before I took it out to the club.

Thanks!
 

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Put a pair of snap caps in it, pull the trigger once!

Now, bang the butt pad, square on the floor, a pretty hard rap!

Then pull the trigger again and listen for the click. That might break it loose if it is gummed up. But it will still need a good cleaning an lubing.

It is not supposed to operate the way you are having to do.

Clyde
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
DRIGGY said:
If those two don't fix it then the oil in the trigger mechanism is thicken and needs to be cleaned up. Take it to a gun smith since it seems you are unfamiliar with the O/U designs.
Is there any way I can check this? I am unfamiliar with the trigger system as this is my first o/u. I dont want to mess anything up, but I would like to know how the gun operates in case something else is not working properly.
 

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You have to remove the stock to see what is going on with the inertia block in the receiver. The inertia block is the rectangular block of metal nearest the stock end of the receiver. It should move frely, but is probably gummed up from sitting 20 years. Before cleaning it, try to see if it moves freely with your fingers. If it doesn't, that is your problem. I'd clean it with a good gun solvent or alcohol or brake cleaner. Follow that with a good blow out with an air compressor, then lightly oil, then blow that out leaving a very thin coat of oil. Reassemble the gun, insert the snap caps and pull the trigger. After the firing pin drops on the first snap cap, rap the butt of the stock stock on the ground to set the second trigger. Pull the trigger again and you should hear the second firing pin hit the snap cap. If that doesn't work, take it to a good gunsmith.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
jugchoke said:
Put a pair of snap caps in it, pull the trigger once!

Now, bang the butt pad, square on the floor, a pretty hard rap!

Then pull the trigger again and listen for the click. That might break it loose if it is gummed up. But it will still need a good cleaning an lubing.

It is not supposed to operate the way you are having to do.

Clyde
No go. Still only 1 click. Would the 2 screws on the grip be the ones to remove to get to the trigger system? Are there any springs I should be aware of that may pop out if it is removed?
 

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bh4mr1ck said:
No go. Still only 1 click. Would the 2 screws on the grip be the ones to remove to get to the trigger system? Are there any springs I should be aware of that may pop out if it is removed?
No on the grip screws, although if any go into the wood, they will have to be removed as well.

The stock will have to be removed. As to "pop out" is there any rattles now? Something may already have possibly came loose. Not likely, but?

First you will have to remove the butt pad, then through the hole in the back of the butt stock remove the bolt that holds it to the receiver. Here is where any screws into the wood, or through the wood and into the internal receiver metal, at the trigger guard comes into play as well.

Albanygun pretty well covers it after that. If you want to go that far, otherwise, gunsmith time. Just maybe anyway!

Clyde
 

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Just start by taking the stock off and flushing it out and lubing it. It needs it anyway. No big deal. Even a Neanderthal can do it. If some Paleontologist shows him what a screwdriver is!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the help and suggestions! I took it out again today and shot it to see if it would change barrels without the switch and it still wouldnt. Lucky there is a gunsmith on-site at the club where I shoot and he took it apart and cleaned it for me. Said that it was gummed up as suggested here. Shot it again and it worked as it was supposed to. Its amazing how much easier that is than switching barrels manually! Thanks again for everyones help!!
 
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