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Greetings,

Any fellows that owns the same gun? Would be great to share some experiences about the gun. I bought mine last saturday. 30" barrels. First to notice when I got back home that there is no full choke, have to order it later. Even though it is designed for claytracks, I going to use it also as a hunting gun.

I've ordered the shims for straps from Sako (importer of Beretta in Finland) and will have them install them as soon as the shims arrive from Italy...

I've shot ~27 rounds and after 12 the barrel selector stucked causing the whole mechanism to stuck. What I did was that I removed the rear butt and inside the mechanism, between the barrelselector I found a wooden chip. That was the reasons, tiny but fully enough to make me sweat.

In the gunstore while testing the trigger (dryfiring) I belived that the gun automatically changed barrels. First went the the barrel I've selected and after that went the second barrel.
Now, after that I had cleaned the mechanism and removed the wooden chip I notice that when dry firing only one barrel will go untill you hit the rear butt.. In other words, the trigger or hammers is inertia operated.. I thank God, my conclusion is that the wooden chip caused that you could dryfire both barrels without a recoil or other tricks needed. Can't imagine what would have happened if both barrels went on same time, because this would have been possible...just because a wooden chip..

Anyway, I will send my report to Sako, hopfully they forward it to Beretta.

Now the gun seems to be working fine and havn't yet regreted that I bought the gun, hopefully I don't ever have to do that.

But as a warning to all, concerning all the brands, If the mechanim seems to be weird, check it out or have a gunsmith or other authorized person to take a look at it. This was my stupidity when I didn't ask the seller if the hamers were mechanically or interia-operated, If I had asked, the problem would have been identified and fixed from that very moment.
 

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Beretta calls the 686E Sporting an "entry level" SC gun, but I suppose it couold be considered "budget" compared to a lot of other nice O/Us. I'm very fond of my 686E for clays. It's a little heavy for field use though, so I've used all that money I saved to buy other shotguns I need :lol:
 

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I have 2 68x series Berettas, a 686 SPS and a 687 SP. They are very fine guns; I believe they are the best value on the market. Both of mine are field guns and I have not had any problems w/ either.

Originally I wanted to purchase your gun but I could not find a used one at my price point. FYI, both of my Berettas I are pretty light, they at less than 8 lbs and both can be carried in the field for several hours w/ out fatigue. I have found the 686 E sporting to be a little heavier at 8 to 8.5 lbs. But each gun can vary in weight by a pound or more. Either way if you can manage the weight of your gun in the field you'll have a great all around gun.

In regards to your comments below:

In the gunstore while testing the trigger (dryfiring) I belived that the gun automatically changed barrels. First went the barrel I've selected and after that went the second barrel. Now, after that I had cleaned the mechanism and removed the wooden chip I notice that when dry firing only one barrel will go until you hit the rear butt.. In other words, the trigger or hammers is inertia operated.. I thank God, my conclusion is that the wooden chip caused that you could dryfire both barrels without a recoil or other tricks needed. Can't imagine what would have happened if both barrels went on same time, because this would have been possible...just because a wooden chip..
The issue w/ the "gun automatically" changing barrels, is most likely user error. I have seen (and done this once or twice myself) people mount the gun w/ their thumb on the selector and switch the barrel selector.

You should try to avoid dry firing the gun. Get a set of snap caps or 2 spent shells. This will saver the spring on your firing pin and ultimately save your firing pin as well.
 
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