[C.A.Bugg]

I just bought my first O/U used. Now I have a few questions.
1. I just noticed that the metal at the bottom of the forend that enters the recess in the bottom of the receiver actually touches and is leaving a mark. Is this a sign of wear and can it be adjusted somehow to stop this contact? Everyone else that has more experience with O/U's tell me the receiver/barrels lock up well and it feels and shoots fine.
2. Is there anything special to know about removing the stocks? I need to remove the stock and forearm to refinish them. I know to remove the recoil pad and the center bolt, but is that all - will anything go "SPROING" when I pull out the center bolt? Is there anything special to removing the metal (release and hinge) from the forend? It came with a shiny finish and I want to refinish the wood to a dull satin style.

 

[HalfStop]

A photo of the fore end problem would help. I'm not sure from the description what is happening. You can remove the recoil pad and the stock bolt without anything going "Sproing". The recoil pad will come off with a #2 Phillips screwdriver. Put some Vaseline on the screwdriver so you don't bugger up the pad. There's no magic to removing the fore end hardware. Just make sure you use the correct size screwdriver to remove the fore end hardware - you may have to grind the bit to fit the slot.

 

[Joe C.]

To remove buttstock you need a long 6mm hex driver.

 

[sepp]

And after you remove the barrels from the receiver, you'll need to push in the black pin protruding from the top left side of the receiver face to allow the top lever to return to the center position. If you don't move the top lever back to center, you may scratch the stock as you remove it from the receiver.

 

[Cedar]

And after you remove the barrels from the receiver, you'll need to push in the black pin protruding from the top left side of the receiver face to allow the top lever to return to the center position. If you don't move the top lever back to center, you may scratch the stock as you remove it from the receiver.

This ^^ very important.

As for the forend iron scratching the receiver - I am guessing you are seeing some galling.
Scratch is not good...finish wear is totally normal.

You need to see if any burr or sand is stuck between. put some grease after good cleaning and see if this is happening again

 

[DallasCMT]

So after removing the stock (I have one as well) I can blast out the innards with solvent, oil, and reassemble?

How often do these guns need professional tune ups?

 

[sepp]

That's a tough question to answer as it will depend upon how well you keep it lubricated and greased and obviously how may rounds you put through it.

Beretta's web site used to reference 80,000 rounds as the point where you may need to install the first of three progressively larger locking lugs. (Pretty sure there are three different sizes for rebuilds) The Trunion (hinge pin) can easily be changed if needed.

I'm not a competitive shooter so hopefully, someone else with that level of experience with Berettas will chime in with more relevant info. I'm just parroting what I have read. I doubt any of my three Beretta O/Us will need any such repairs in my lifetime.

 

[DallasCMT]

Thanks for the reply. I keep mine cleaned and oiled, it probably has 4,000 rounds on it. I'm a long way from needing professional service, but it may need cleaning inside the stock.

 

[berettaclayshooter]

80,000 rounds it may because off face, but should go to a gunsmith long before that. Common things wear out, springs and such. I would suggest 20-30K for a trip to Cole Guns.

 

[EricB]

It only took 15 years for the OP to get a response. That's hilarious!

 

[DallasCMT]

After 15 years it may finally need service!

 

[ishoot4thriLLs]

It only took 15 years for the OP to get a response. That's hilarious!

Haahaa, I went back and looked at the first post. You're right, that is hilarious!