Shotgun Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hear that if you spray your gun down with this stuff and wipe it off, eventually a coat of Teflon will form around your barrel providing a nice rust preventative coating? Is this true?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
23,333 Posts
dak0ta said:
I hear that if you spray your gun down with this stuff and wipe it off, eventually a coat of Teflon will form around your barrel providing a nice rust preventative coating? Is this true?
No!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,163 Posts
dak0ta said:
No?

So what is the "rust preventative" that's in CLP?
It's Maaagic!

;-)

Beats me, but whatever it is, it works.

Teflon is not generally used as a rust preventive, anyway - it is mostly a lubricant.

Breakfree CLP is almost all I use for Cleaning, Lubricating, and Protecting. RemOil has Teflon in it, but I have found Breakfree to work better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,122 Posts
What the teflon will do is fill the pores of the metal in the bore, making cleaning easier as carbon will not be able to get in the pore. But to do that you must thoroughly clean the gun then use breakfree exclusively after that leaving a LIGHT coat in the barrel.

It works for me and have been using it since it was introduced to me in the USMC use in the 80's.

Be sure to shake the bottle before using!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
380 Posts
I clean my Beretta with CLP every time I shoot. Then I put a lite coat of RemOil over the surface of all the metal and in the bore before I lock it up.

When I return from the range, I spray CLP in both bores and let the barrel sit for 15 - 30 minutes. Then a bore snake and several clean patches give me shiny bores.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,122 Posts
Petroleum based lubricants can be very tough on finishes. CLP, because of its penetrants, can and do break down oil finishes. It makes them gummy after repeated use. Varnish type finishes also break down after extended exposure and can get gummy also.

I bought an Ithica Flues 16 that has a gummy finish around the receiver. The original owner said it had only gotten that way in the last years of owning it. He said he used to douse it in kerosene, blow it out and heavily cover it in 3 in 1 and leave it barrel up in the closet. He changed to CLP the last few years and claimed the CLP ate the finish. Not sure if it was the CLP, but as the problem was concentrated at the receiver and wrist, I suspect it was the penentrants in the oil, be it CLP or 3 in 1.

Though I am not anal about it, I try to avoid contact with the finish and wipe off any excess that gets on the stock.

I use wax (gunstock or trewax) mostly on the stock, but I am taking a look at clenzoil. It seems that it has a long history of being used on stocks with no negative impacts. I guess it doesn't have the penetrants that CLP does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,163 Posts
Well, it looks like I'm going to have to eat my words (I do that a lot - that's how I got so fat).

Breakfree CLP does contain Teflon. The label says it contains PTFE, which is the abbreviated chemical name for the trademark Teflon.

I know the formula for CLP has been changed at least once, and maybe the PTFE was added then. I still suspect that the original formula did not contain PTFE, but now I'm not so sure.

Roger Over Under said:
I love the stuff for synthetic stock guns.

But I tend to stay away from it when the gun has nice wood.
It's really strong stuff.

Any thoughts?
I wonder what you use if not Breakfree. Oil? Ordinary gun oil is very bad for wood. It soaks into the wood and over a period of years it can turn the wood soft and "punky". I know - that happened to my grandfather's LC Smith.

The oil that is used for gun finishes is an organic oil (comes from plants) but lubricating oil is a mineral oil (comes from petroleum). Mineral oil is a no-no on wood.

Breakfree CLP contains petroleum distillates, so I would assume it is not safe for wood - but I don't see how it could be worse than gun oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,572 Posts
My way of doing it:

:arrow: Gunscrubber to clean bore/action.
:arrow: Rem-oil to lube action/coat the bore.
:arrow: A coat of silicone spray and a wipe down with a silicone impregnated gun cloth on all exterior parts of the gun (both wood/metal).

8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,367 Posts
I have a few bottles of Breakfree from a case that was given to me in 1979. It has Teflon. I use it for all my guns. Still have 5 or 6 bottles from this case. It is for me the best stuff I have evr used. I have some Remoil that my son gave me. He swears by it. I will try it when the CLP runs out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,079 Posts
CLP is the best stuff since sliced bread. I have a one gallon bottle of it that I think will last until Rapture.

I use it on everything, it works very well. If you've got really heavy fouling on your gun put a heavy coat on and let her sit for a day or two, the stuff will pull carbon out of eveything.

It really does prevent rust, it's not the absoulte best at that but it's pretty good.

As far as a do everything "gun oil" CLP is about the best thing on the market.

BTW I have a nice CLP finished stock on my Beretta. I kept spilling it all over the wood when cleaning the action, so I hand rubbed it out and it shines like a mirror now. Probably not the best thing for wood but the gun doesn't seem to care too much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,881 Posts
Hoppes 9 in the barrels swab that out.
Beretta oil or Rem oil after that.
Wipe the barrels with a bit of either oil on a rag.

Rem action cleaner on the reciever or carefull use of Hoppes 9 if things are really messy.
I've used Breakfree at this step too.
Making sure a gets no where near the wood.

I'll even use a little WD40 if it was raining like yesterday.

Blow it all out with compressed air.
Wipe that clean.
Possibly coat that with a a couple drops of Beretta oil on a cloth while wiping clean.

For the wood I just wipe it down with a rag sprayed with Pledge or nothing at all on a Gun cloth.
I have Tru-Oil or Boiled Linseed Oil finishes on all my guns. Even newer ones have been stripped a bit and Tru-Oiled.
So if it's ever needed, I place a couple drops on rag and wipe down with my finger tips
tightly held inside the rag.
Let it dry overnight.

Then I take a swig of Mineral Oil to keep ME cleaned-out :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,122 Posts
ROGER OVER UNDER said:
Then I take a swig of Mineral Oil to keep ME cleaned-out :lol:
Man, I even saw that coming........a true "Wait for it" line.

Using hoppes # 9 defeats the purpose of teflon by stripping it from the metal, just like #9 does for plastic wad residue.

With that said I use #9 whenever I see some residue and I can't knock it out with CLP and a wirebrush, then recoat it with CLP. I have found over time that you don't need to use #9 as often and on my guns that I have had a while, I don't need to use it at all.

Roger O/U: I prefer Makers Mark!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,079 Posts
I like CLP because it's one product that does everything. I don't need a dozen different bottles of goop in the garage.

I did try mixing #9 with CLP, was more or less just trying to get CLP to smell like Hoppes #9. It worked somewhat. Whatever the final product was though it sure cleaned well. Smells rather odd though.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top