cleaning plastic fouling
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4,144 Posts
Don't try kerosine or gasoline. You don't wan't a nasty surprise when you shoot it 
.
Try a aerosol container of Birchwood Casy gun cleaner followed by a brass bore brush.
.Try a aerosol container of Birchwood Casy gun cleaner followed by a brass bore brush.
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187 Posts
I wonder if it's really plastic fouling you've got a problem with? For me, the plastic wadding cleans away pretty easily - gooey, but it flushes out of the barrel pretty good after wetting it down with #9 and letting it sit for ten minutes then running a brush (I prefer tornado brushes over bristle brushes) through it many times. Wanna' know plastic wad fouling? Just go buy/shoot some of those Winchester "100 for $15" target four packs - now there's plastic wad fouling to the max! Sorry, just had to spew that... :wink:
I've heard that Birchwood Casey's Bore Scrubber product is pretty wicked stuff - usually hear that it makes short work of big fouling probs. I checked their site and they have a decent document describing how to use their "Bore Scrubber/Bore Cleaner" followed by "Gun Scrubber Solvent Degreaser", located here:
http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/howto/brochure.pdf
With more info on each here:
Bore Scrubber - http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/mai ... u=2&item=2
Gun Cleaner - http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/mai ... u=1&item=1
Maybe worth a try?
I've heard that Birchwood Casey's Bore Scrubber product is pretty wicked stuff - usually hear that it makes short work of big fouling probs. I checked their site and they have a decent document describing how to use their "Bore Scrubber/Bore Cleaner" followed by "Gun Scrubber Solvent Degreaser", located here:
http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/howto/brochure.pdf
With more info on each here:
Bore Scrubber - http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/mai ... u=2&item=2
Gun Cleaner - http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/mai ... u=1&item=1
Maybe worth a try?
G
Guest
·I use the #9 for general removal of the loose stuff, but wet the bore with Shooters Choice bore cleaner and let it set for 15-30 min to loosen up whats left. Then I use the Tornado brush that I have dipped in Shooters Choice. Sometimes it takes more than one time. Seems to do a good job for me. V/T Tonyg
My new Beretta really picks up the wad fouling, I shot 100 rounds with Claybuster 1100 wads, and for some reason there is a very specific area of the optima choke tube that is coated with plastic, it kinda worries me. I guess I need a bottle of that plastic solvent.
Furner, I am having the same kind of problem with my new beretta. It seems that the plastic really builds up in these guns. Mine seems worse around the forceing cone area. I wondered since it was back bored if my brush was not working very effectively. I will have to give the bore scrubber a try.
TC
TC
Mine was so bad that if I was shooting more than 100 shells, I would take a break to clean the wad crap out of the tube. These optima chokes are super-long, maybe the difference in material has something to do with it, or maybe the tube and barrel need a little bit of oil.TC said:
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17,858 Posts
I've been using GM upper engine cleaner for bore solvent for a long time now. Use it in all kind of firearms. A bit of that stuff on a rag and then a good bronze brush and in a few back-and-forth trips with the cleaning rod my barrels come clean. Many times I'll wrap a flanel patch arround a bronze brush and it helps hold the solvent at the brush where I want it. Spend all the money you want on the high powered cleaning solvents available, but youll be hard pressed to do better than GM upper engine cleaner. It isn't a serious copper removing solvent, but that isn't an issue for shotguns anyway.
BP
BP
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654 Posts
I find that Shooters Choice works best. It ain't cheap!! but it works.
G
Guest
·For plastic fouling (wads) the best cleaner on the market is "Wads Out". It is made by Top Gun Products. Soak the barrel with it, let it stand 20-30 minutes, run a brush through it, a patch, works well. Somtimes I use a small piece of scotch brite also.
G
Guest
·Just get you some 0000 steelwool and rap some of it around your brass brush. It will hold your solvent from running off and does a great job, and its cheep. I would not use Scotch Brite in any of my guns as I feel it is too ruff.
I have had good results with Brownells Wad Solvent. Be sure not to let any get on any plastic you don't want to melt such as a polyurethane gun stock finish. I've found out that as the barrel on my Browning got polished from use, that plastic fouling reduced quite a bit.
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117 Posts
Check this out if ya wanna make your own bore cleaner. I've used it and the stuff works great:
http://www.loadyourown.com/EdsRed.htm
http://www.loadyourown.com/EdsRed.htm
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3,016 Posts
OK. I know I'll get gigged for saying this. But here goes...
I use Hoppe's #9 with a bronze brush. I patch the barrel a few times first to get the plastic residue soaked down and then half-patch the brush (thread end of the brush) with a patch soaked in the #9. I then take an old aluminum cleaning rod and use my cordless drill at LOW RPM clockwise. I run it through chamber-first all the way to the muzzle very slowly.
When the brush clears the muzzle, I don't bring it back through. I disconnect from the drill and pull it out the muzzle. I then check for any residue remaining and do it again if necessary with a clean patch. Once the residue is cleared out, I bore-snake it and run a final thick T-shirt patch through. When the patch comes out clean, I lightly oil down the inside and out for storage.
Check and lube the choke tube(s) if your shotgun has 'em.
Takes less than 10 minutes to get a mirror bore that's like new.
Remember...LOW RPM. (100-125rpm or so)
Great forum here. Love it!
Equismith
I use Hoppe's #9 with a bronze brush. I patch the barrel a few times first to get the plastic residue soaked down and then half-patch the brush (thread end of the brush) with a patch soaked in the #9. I then take an old aluminum cleaning rod and use my cordless drill at LOW RPM clockwise. I run it through chamber-first all the way to the muzzle very slowly.
When the brush clears the muzzle, I don't bring it back through. I disconnect from the drill and pull it out the muzzle. I then check for any residue remaining and do it again if necessary with a clean patch. Once the residue is cleared out, I bore-snake it and run a final thick T-shirt patch through. When the patch comes out clean, I lightly oil down the inside and out for storage.
Check and lube the choke tube(s) if your shotgun has 'em.
Takes less than 10 minutes to get a mirror bore that's like new.
Remember...LOW RPM. (100-125rpm or so)
Great forum here. Love it!
Equismith
Try 'Wads Out' from http://www.seminolegun.com works better than Browning Gold, Remington Bore Bright, and Otters solvent to get the plastic residue out of the forcing cone and choke tube.
My berettas seem to collect a lot of residue after 100 rounds.
My berettas seem to collect a lot of residue after 100 rounds.
I have had very good results in removing the plastic wad fouling with automotive carburetor & injector throttle body aerosol cleaner. I spray this on a patch after using Hoppes #9 & it really removes the crud.
Be careful not to get it on the wood surfaces as I believe it would remove the surface finish.
Rod.
Be careful not to get it on the wood surfaces as I believe it would remove the surface finish.
Rod.
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281 Posts
Don't get this stuff on the stock finish.Gumout spray carb cleaner.Remove barrel,spray the stuff in the barrel,run a snug fitting patch through and all the plastic nastys have turned to goo.Then a little #9 for powder removal.This has reduced my cleaning time down a bunch.
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