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My SBEII has always been flawless. But has started to not chamber a shell after firing, with fairly light light loads. In the past it's worked fine with these same loads.
When cleaning a Benelli SBI or other Benelli semi auto, do you leave the action dry, or do you oil it, or …….
 

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Interesting video in that they do put a lot of oil in trigger assembly and magazine tube spring area. Much more than I would have expected. Good video for any inertia gun owner.
 

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oyeme said:
Interesting video in that they do put a lot of oil in trigger assembly and magazine tube spring area. Much more than I would have expected.
Also interesting was that no lube at all was applied to the moving parts of the bolt.

Another, more thorough, pair of videos I've seen on cleaning/lubing the Benellis shows the bolt being disassembled and lightly lubed. See below...

Also from Benelli:

 

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if this does not work, it's possible the recoil spring is getting a little weak. A replacement Wolf spring is < 20 and it's not too difficult to replace. Once again, utube is your friend and will show you what to do.
 

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desmobob said:
oyeme said:
Interesting video in that they do put a lot of oil in trigger assembly and magazine tube spring area. Much more than I would have expected.
Also interesting was that no lube at all was applied to the moving parts of the bolt.

Another, more thorough, pair of videos I've seen on cleaning/lubing the Benellis shows the bolt being disassembled and lightly lubed. See below...

Also from Benelli:

Yeah....I kept waiting for them to lube the bolt head around the cam.... Never happened....
 

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Work over the recoil spring in the butt. Use a dowel or plunger to push it back, spray in a cleaner degreaser and cycle it a bunch with plunger. Leave dry and then light lube by again pushing back on recoil spring to get lube into the tube. If you still have issues time for a replacement Wolff spring and super cleaning the inside of tube in case of any rust or corrosion.
 

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Patently Obvious said:
Work over the recoil spring in the butt. Use a dowel or plunger to push it back, spray in a cleaner degreaser and cycle it a bunch with plunger. Leave dry and then light lube by again pushing back on recoil spring to get lube into the tube. If you still have issues time for a replacement Wolff spring and super cleaning the inside of tube in case of any rust or corrosion.
. What lube do you suggest? is there a you-tube that explains the process?
 

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There are YouTube videos for changing the recoil spring you can watch but that may require a heat gun to break the lock tight free. For lube hornady one shot will lube and prevent rust. It evaporates and leaves a dry lube that will be good in cold weather and not collect grime.
 

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Patently Obvious said:
There are YouTube videos for changing the recoil spring you can watch but that may require a heat gun to break the lock tight free. For lube hornady one shot will lube and prevent rust. It evaporates and leaves a dry lube that will be good in cold weather and not collect grime.
+1

That's a favorite gun cleaning/maintenance product of mine, for sure.

I did have trouble with an AL390 duck gun that had experienced a submergence in the marsh (remember kids, when using a tandem canoe, the paddler in the rear should get in last and get out first). It had developed rust on the recoil spring and in the tube from my lack of maintenance and the dunking. Also, with a heavily-used duck gun, bits of cattail fluff, duckweed, feathers, etc. could possibly find their way back into the tube from the receiver and it doesn't hurt to give it a good flushing out and re-lubing.

I replaced it with a nice stainless steel upgrade and remembered to lube it properly. That much-abused shotgun is still running perfectly today.

Anyway, I used a propane torch to break loose the factory thread-locker, since I knew I was going to replace the whole assembly. A heat gun would be a better choice.
 

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Dr Duk said:
Wait, what? Benelli guns need to be cleaned. Who knew? :mrgreen:
Once every third season, whether they need it or not!

:wink:
 

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I spray the workings of my Inertia driven Benelli with choke cleaner. I wipe it down, blow it with air, and add a little oil. Choke cleaner really cleans out the barrel after few hundred rounds of light trap loads. Then a little oil in the barrel to - keep it lubed until the next use.

Hoppes is fine, but choke cleaner really gets into the nooks and crannies.
 

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They are not kidding about using loads that are 3 dram equivalent, 1 1/8 Oz. Twice on my Benelli M2 I have had to replace the bolt closure mechanism and spring, before I began using 3 dram shells. For reasons I don't understand, if you use lighter loads, you will eventually have malfunctions.
 

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I keep the bolt rails and grooves in the receiver wet but oil the other parts sparingly. This has served me well for the last 22yrs.
 
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