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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been given 1 bag of chilled # 9 shot but is old and bag was opened.. Looks like a full bag but has a dull/dry look and feel to it..anything I can do /add to it to get it back to normal?
thanks
SWTEX
 

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Or else just load it up and shoot it. :wink:

Granted it looks and feels better if you do like claybreaker suggested, but I'd probably not go through the drill myself.

BP
 

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I've graphited a bunch of shot by simply pouring about a third of a bag intp a 1/2 gallon pickle jar and adding the graphite.

Then shake and roll the shot around for a couple or three minutes and the graghite will coat the shot fine.

The graphite is there to give the shot lubricity, and make it flow with a fluid like movement, so it will pass the forcing cones and chokes with less damage.

Using shot that has oxidized and lost its lubricity will without doubt suffer considerably more damage from the forcing cones and will no doubt have a detrimental effect on patterns.

DLM
 

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claybreaker, how did the graphite do on cutting out the dust?

I tumbled my reclaimed to loosen oxydation, dropped it through the wind from a leaf blower, and back in the tumbler with graphite added. Looks great. But if the graphite binds the dust, then that's a lot easier. Case sprays his reclaimed with silicone, I believe.
 

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Get the graphite at most any implement dealer who handles planters. Graphite is routinely used in planter boxes in this neck or the woods to facilitate seed drop. Corn and Beans mostly. I think they sell it in 2-1/2 gal jugs here'bouts.

BP
 

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The seed store is a good place to buy it but the quantity sucks. That's enough to lube tons of shot.

I get mine at the hardware stores. A little goes a loooong ways. Haven't bought any for several years, so I don't have any idea what it costs now, but it shouldn't be much.

DLM
 

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Graphite's nasty stuff.

Pour the shot half a bag at a time in a plastic tub, spray it liberally with 100% silicone, roll it around to even the distribution and you've accomplished basically the same thing - binding the corrosion dust.

That's how I "process" my raw reclaimed, after I pluck out all the steel pellets with a magnet and hand-pick out the few small stones.
 

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D L Marcum said:
Using shot that has oxidized and lost its lubricity will without doubt suffer considerably more damage from the forcing cones and will no doubt have a detrimental effect on patterns.
The shot will still be in the shot cup of the wad at this point in it's travel down the pipe, so I assume that said damage is pellet-to-pellet grinding during setback. I've always thought lead to have some self-lubricating properties of it's own. If using pre-dinged reclaim, I'm not sure how much of an issue this would really be anyhow.

MM3
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the replies ...will get some graphite or silicone {which ever I find first} today. I did load some but in 410 the flow was somewhat irregular. :( .SWTEX
 

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SWTEX said:
Thanks for all the replies ...will get some graphite or silicone {which ever I find first} today. I did load some but in 410 the flow was somewhat irregular. :( .SWTEX
The graphite and/or silicone also helps prevent bridging in the drop tube. Especially in the little .410 with reclaimed and deformed shot. If you use silicone, use very little as if any collects on the drop tube interior, it may cause powder to stick to the tube..... Just a thought.
 

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After lubrication with silicone, will the reloader shot container be used for siliconed shot only (ie does it leave the container greasy)?
How does someone know when they have used too little, too much or just the right amount?
Can lubricated shot be kept for later use or does it have to be used within a short period of time? My reclaim has been ordered just planning ahead. :?:

Thanks Rich
 

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Rich11111 said:
After lubrication with silicone, will the reloader shot container be used for siliconed shot only (ie does it leave the container greasy)?
Silicone contains no grease (it's just pure silicone in spray form) and also dries fairly quickly. It won't hurt anything. I prefer the Gunk brand, available at virtually any auto parts store.

How does someone know when they have used too little, too much or just the right amount?
Just spread it out in the tub and wet it down slightly, then mix it around for an even coating on all the pellets. Then let it dry, which won't take long.

Can lubricated shot be kept for later use or does it have to be used within a short period of time? My reclaim has been ordered just planning ahead. :?:
I store mine in plastic 64-oz. cranberry cocktail bottles, often before it's even completely dry. Each bottle holds 25 lbs. and shelf life is...well, nothing to worry about.

Again, it has no ill effect on anything, does about the same thing as graphite and is a helluva lot cleaner and easier to work with.
 
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