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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We’ll mostly anyways. I wish I had done a before and after, this stock had cracks and finish that had turned white, the recoil pad was hanging half off. Decided to rework it for a duck hunting stock. Put a grind to fit limbsaver recoil pad on it (which does wonders for perceived recoil) the stock was loose so I drilled out the old tang hole and filled it with an oak dowel, then redrilled the hole with a drill press and a jig I made for positioning holes at odd angles. Them fitted the stock nice and tight and forces glue into a couple cracks that were just forming. I test fired it yesterday with about 100 rounds at clays. Also fired some very heavy loads out of it to try to induce cracking, none found. My issue now is the forearm compression that has left the barrel slightly proud. Hoping to find shims to adjust it. Guess I could grind down a steel brake ring to size, can’t believe nobody sells shims for this issue though.
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Excellent work!

I too have always wondered why no one ever made a shim for the forend to help absorb the constant banging by the barrel ring. I guess it was not feasible or Art's or Browning would have made one.

I am still not convinced a very thin steel shim/washer would not work without effecting the bolt closure.

I bet it now will work when others fail!!! Congratulations!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I put a pleather shim in there and it worked but is failing pretty rapidly, a thin bronze shim would work as long as the outer diameter is a little big and the inner diameter is over sized so it jams into the wood and doesn’t ride the magazine tube.
 

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I put a pleather shim in there and it worked but is failing pretty rapidly, a thin bronze shim would work as long as the outer diameter is a little big and the inner diameter is over sized so it jams into the wood and doesn’t ride the magazine tube.
I agree and like you, am stupefied that something has not been made to help that wear point on the otherwise nearly indestructible Auto 5. The thinnest bronze, brass or steel material made to fit that area should work just fine.
 

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I had a buddy with a 3D printer make some for me. I use them on 2-9/16 guns with 2-3/4 forearms
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Sooooo, where can we get these spacers, lol. Dude could make a killing on eBay. They are definitely too thick for my gun and wonder if they would disintegrate if too thin? Metal is the way to go. I think aluminum or brass with a punch out making a little sharp fastener like on nail plates would be good or just epoxy I suppose.
I just lightly sanded everything to get the old plastic coating completely off and rubbed on several coats of tru oil with gloved fingers, no sanding between coats but waited at least 10 hours between coats. Might only be three coats.
 

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Go to your friendly Ace Hardware and root around in the "O" ring dept. A correctly sized O ring should give you the spacing you need and if and when it gives out put another one in. A spot of pliobond or super glue will hold it in place.
I found a gasket that worked for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I thought about gasket material, thin leather was my first choice but isn’t holding up well. Now I’m thinking brass or aluminum or that plastic they make cutting boards out of. I have a large oring kit might give that a whirl and see how long it lasts, I shoot about 100 rounds a week out of it. This was an issue with the auto 5 from day one, I read once that a market hunter commented how he loved his model 11 but had to replace the forearm every year he shot it so much. I have a brand new factory forearm but it look funny with the old stock and the whole purpose of the refurb was to save the nice furniture. I honestly like this old stock better than the factory new stock I have, it points differently and I shoot it really well.
 

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What I envision is a very thin metal washer with clips that hold it in place like the Rem 1100 had on the end of the forend underneath the magazine cap. The Beretta 303 also has a piece like that.

Don't know why it was not ever used or developed as it seems a pretty simple fix to a well known issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I measured the inside of the stock and found that a washer 1” id x 1.25-1.35” would fit perfectly with a flat ground on one side. Found a 1”x1.25” pack of nylon washers but the cost was $40!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Alright, I fixed the forearm this morning. I’m not sure why this didn’t occur to me in the first place but I just filed down the base of the forearm where it meets the action until the barrel was flush again. Now it’s perfect! I might bed the wood where it meets the action so it’s perfectly flat and the forearm has no wiggle.
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