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4278 Views 14 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  oaknut
Has anyone used Ballistol oil on thier shootguns?
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I only use Breakfree CLP and the inhibitor,
gunsmith strips and cleans the gun once a year and puts anything else that might be needed
I also only use the Breakfree CLP...GunTest magazine ranked it #1 in the gun oil test they published. The Military started using Breakfree CLP in 1980 for all their clean, lubrication and rust prevention. It was the only oil in 1970's that surpased the miltary spec tests.
For the last few years, I've used CLP for everything except the hinge points on my over/unders - there, I use Hoppe's or Outer's gun grease. There seems to be a pattern emerging here... watch our lips - CLP !!!
Never heard of Ballistol. I've got a gallon jug of CLP to get me through the next 100 years.
:?: hi guys, what does CLP stand for and where do you buy it ?
Breakfree cleaner, lubricant, protectant (CLP)
Get it at most gun stores, wal-mart, bass pro, cabelas, online etc.
Just letting errol know he's not the only one that has never heard of CLP.

Don't worry guys...I'm always here to make ya'll look smart!

And i'm gonna buy some CLP tomorrow haha
:) thank you i'll see if i can find some . errol
I was introduced to a product called "Clenzoil" by a gunsmith at Gander Mountain for my handguns. Gander doesn't sell it, but the gunsmith had numerous bottles, of which I bought one from him. The entire group over there HIGHLY recommend it...

Man, this stuff is NICE, especially on the finer finishes of my handguns! I've since been using it on my shotguns as a final wipe-down, and LOVE the results!

Around $10.00 per bottle - check it here:
I've got a small spray can of Ballistol Lube. I haven't used it yet. A gunsmith had set up his trailer at a sporting clays shoot a few months ago, I asked him what did he use for gun cleaning. He said Ballistol was real good, then he gave me a 1.5oz. spray can to use. METAL: Lubricates, cleans, protects anything metal. Mildly alkaline, neutralizes acids, Protects against acidic, galvanic, and salt water corrosion. FIREARMS: Cleans, lubricates & protects firearms, lock, stock & barrel. Dissolves traces of copper, lead, brass & black powder residues. Emulsifies with water. Will never gum-up or harden. WOOD: Maintains & protects wood. Ideal for antique furniture, cabinets & wooden stocks on firearms. Use on wood in boats, cars & RV's. Non-toxic, No CFC's, No carcinogens, Bio-degradable. Extremely Flammable. Ballistol is distributed by Washington Trading Company, Kitty Hawk, N.C.
This is a topic that always generates a lot of vigorous debate, and it certainly has here. For lubrication, I, too, like Breakfree CLP. But for rust prevention, I have adifferent strategy.

I find that good old WD-40 is pretty hard to beat for water displacement and rust prevention on exterior metal surfaces of firearms. At about $0.99 per can, I believe it's impossible to beat it for price.

According to a test posted on the Brownell's Web site ( ... &t=1&i=503), it held its own quite well against all of the rust-preventative products tested and actually outperformed specially formulated rust inhibitors costing up to ten times as much. Cosmoline and RIG both outperformed it, but each of these is intended more for long-term storage of firearms and is notorious for attracting dirt and dust if used in the field. Just check out the photos of the actual plates of raw steel that were tested to see how WD-40 stacked up. It's amazing to see how well it performed--and even more so to find this information in a report on a Web site that sells the far more expensive alternatives.

I spray a light coating of WD-40 directly onto exterior metal gun surfaces, especially on barrels and underneath vent ribs, and wipe off any excessive coating. I then soak a patch with it to apply directly to smaller exterior metal surfaces like trigger guards, swivel studs, and tang straps. I avoid any overspray onto wood, where it could potentially affect the finish, or into trigger or action mechanisms, where it may leave behind deposits after it evaporates. While its water displacement (that's what the "WD" stands for) qualities are excellent and its anti-corrosion capabilities, at least IMHO, are very good, it is not highly regarded as a lubricant; that's why I still rely on CLP or Rem-oil or Hoppes oil for any moving parts that need both corrosion protection and lubrication.
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I use a product called G96 gun treatment. best product I have ever used. It is wiped dry and leaves a magnetic film that won't attract dirt and grime like WD-40 will. I will confess I have never used break Free CLP.
I've used ballistol for about 3 years now. I find this product to be very good and is the only thing I use on my guns now. After using for a year I found the oil actually penetrates the metal not allowing water to get in, I also find my pumps and autos work a lot smoother. BEST PRODUCT I'VE EVER USED
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