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Hi All--

I have a nice new Remington 870 Express and am delighted with it. The wood, of course, is not its strongest point. I'm thinking that if it were a bit darker it would look slightly better. I don't like shiny finishes. Does anybody have experience with Lin-Speed oil? What would it look like if used on a typical Express buttstock and forend? I'm thinking that on an Express there would be minimal prep work to do.

A related question: It seems to me that Remington used to make Express 870's without checkering--just the horizonal slots on the forearm for a grip. Am I wrong?

Thanks for any help,


Shotgun Expert
Posts: 59
(9/29/02 11:03:14 am)
Reply Lin-Speed
Lin-Speed: This is probably the most popular of the commercial finishes. Apply and let dry. It's use is almost as simple as that. To use, stain sanded wood with a water soluble dye and then apply as directed. Set aside to dry for two or three hours. Apply more coats as needed.

Some other finishes:

Tung oil: Good working finish on a hunting gun and gives extreme water resistance with a velvet look to it.

Tru-Oil Stock Finish: Fast day finish. Penetrates into the grain to seal out moisture and rot, wood remains clear and even harder and tougher. Ultraviolet screening agent in solution allows wood to retain natural beauty. High or low gloss finishes.

Dem-Bart: This is a waterproof stock finish developed under the direction of master stockmaker Bill is a favorite of the pros. Finish seals and hardens the wood, giving a desirable low-sheen, London-type finish. It is also excellent to apply to newly checkered areas on the stock; it won't gum or clog the checkering grooves, provided all excess is wiped off before allowed to dry.

Other stock finishes: Outers, G-96, CVA and Hoppe's. Outer's provides the fastest drying time.

This is from a book: GUNSMITHING AT HOME, BY TRAISTER. I wouldn't even consider finishing a stock, without reading this book and the chapter on stock finishing. It is far more complex than you would imagine. One useful tip is to be sure to put a cone through your forend while sanding it so that you don't crack it. After reading this book, I would guess that the whole process of stripping your current stock, prepping the stock and refinishing could take 30-40 hours; not including drying times. There is quite a bit of detail just in how you sand the stock.

Frequent SW Visitor
Posts: 17
(9/30/02 12:55:41 am)
Reply Re: Lin-Speed
The last three guns I refinished I did with spray paint in three different colors.

Now I use them more than any others I own.
Kill it and Grill, yeah! I love animals. They're tasty!

Shotgun Expert
Posts: 47
(9/30/02 5:03:39 am)
Reply Re: Lin-Speed
Yu wan the wood to look good and darker, then I suggest you use a minwax stain such as special or dark walnut. First sand the wood with a good quality 220 paper with the grain, then apply the stain. let stand for 15 minutes or so and then remove and let dry. Next to help the finishing process, apply a good quality sanding sealer thin as possible and allow to dry and then reapply another coat until you have the wood filled. If it is hardwood, one coat may be sufficient. Next, if you are going to want a satin or dull finish apply truoil with your fingers and let dry. Sand lightly with 400 paper and then reapply another coat. I put on three coats. Next, take some form of polishing compound as least abrasive as possible and run down the wood with a felt pad with the compound. You will now have a satin or dull finish on your wood that is in the wood and will last a life time. If you prefer, you can also use boiled linseed oil after the stain and apply as many as 15 coats and allow to dry and then after totally dry, then rub down with OOOO steel wood and good quailty red oil and you have a oil finish that will also last a life time. This is probably the most durable. Good luck.

cD Tanthalas
Shotgun Expert
Posts: 251
(9/30/02 7:29:56 am)
Re: Lin-Speed
Hoppes makes a nice dark walnut gunstock stain, it's easy to use and you just re-coat until you have the desired shade
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