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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I joined this site and learned to load 12 gauge Key slugs with a wooden dowel, a scale, and a drill powered roll crimper.

I came back to the site and learned how to use my site recommended Mec Sizemaster to load beautifully crafted 28 gauge in a variety of shot configurations.

I came back again to learn how to make 12 Gauge 7/8 oz lite loads and how to adjust the cam-ing on a Very Used 12 gauge MEC Sizemaster. Love those light weights.

I'm back this time due to my basic inability to resist a "deal". Three weeks ago at a LGS, I found a 10 Gauge NIB BPS Stalker that had lived in it's box in a gun safe since 2007. The bore was still "greased" and the upper and lower had never been assembled. The price was more than $300.00 under a new 10 gauge anywhere on the internet. I am living proof that somebody will buy anything if the price is cheap enough. I am shopping for an open choke for the BPS for my inevitable round ball load. I plan on just fitting a 12 gauge round ball into a shot cup. If I can find a ball/wad fit with a decent push through the barrel pressure, I will use a powder charge for the round ball weight from the shot load data.

I have been going through all the 10 gauge posts on the site and based on my reading I have ordered in the following:
1. Mec Steelmaster 10 gauge.
2. Mec Short Kit for the 10 gauge to load 2 7/8" shells.
3. 100 Cheddite 10 Ga 3.5" hulls.
4. Assorted Wads, Gas seals, Cards, OS cards, etc.

I spent as much on the above for setting up to Reload 10 gauge as I did for the gun. That #4 can jump up quick with my "I might need that" philosophy. At 66 years old, you would think I would have grown out of this. I want to reload this gun because it might give me enough flexibility to justify my impulsive first buy. "In for a penny, In for a pound" or "Good Money after Bad". Guess I will have to wait and see. The commercial 10 Gauge loads are NOT inexpensive.

I can find more loads in old manuals than I can in the new manuals, they just don't match on the components. I will continue to try to collect load data where I can. Especially for some of the 2 7/8" versions for use with lead shot. I really think that last 5/8" of shell was added to fit non-toxic and steel better, but, I know I will have to try some 000 and larger buck because I can.

I would appreciate any 2 7/8" load data as that is REALLY scarce.
I would appreciate any tips for the Steelmaster as I have never even seen one. I do own two Sizemasters, so, I know how the Steelmaster should basically work.

Thanks for all who make this site great.

rch
 

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In no particular order:

First off, the Steelmaster is no different than a Sizemaster except for paint and a larger drop tube. When I first started loading for my 10 ga I bought the larger drop tube as it lessened the incidence of bridging when loading large shot. BB will still bridge on occasion but it is not nearly as common as with the original tube. If you can competently use a Sizemaster, you can operate the Steelmaster. The differences are only in your head.

I have loaded some 2 7/8" hulls back in the lead shot days but haven't done so in 30 years. I believe they were last manufactured in the early 70s as I think I have some clearish green plastic Remington Express hulls with plastic shot cups still around. It was mainly due to my Ithaca Mag-10 not cycling them but I also had some issues with these feeding 100% reliably with a BPS. It was not common but it was often enough that I lost trust in that hull length. The single shot and SxS 10 ga guns I owned or used briefly would naturally work fine with the shorter hulls but I didn't care for those guns.

The 3.5" hull came out long before steel shot was mandated, I was using them in the mid-1970s and the box was kind of old even then. The first ones I used were also Remington and they did not have a shot cup of any sort in them. They patterned worse than the typical 12 ga of the time due to the lack of shot protection. The loads I have bought since those first ones

Anything I would use a 10 ga on would require a heavy payload which further negates the shorter hull from my consideration. If less than 2 oz of lead shot or 1 5/8 oz of steel is adequate, then a 12 ga gun is usually a more appropriate choice.

My component choices for the 10 ga are pretty simple: Rem SP10 wads for lead and bismuth shot and SAM 1 wads from Reloading Specialties for steel shot are all I buy. If I need to fill space in the shot column I'll either cut my own spacers with a card punch and
cork and/or add some puffed rice to fit. If one is the least bit handy they can make their own "short kit" to load shorter hulls.

In the case of the 10 ga, a piece of 5/8" board or plywood cut in the shape of the shell holder is all that is needed. I made one to convert 2 3/4" 20 ga to 2 1/2" which I used for the 10 ga by adding washers as shims under the plywood. Put the shims under the stations so the hull is supported. That is all that is needed and is much cheaper than buying a conversion kit. That is, if one even needs the conversion.

I like the 10 ga but my use for one is pretty limited. It is a specialized waterfowl gun to me with a very distant secondary purpose as a turkey gun. I can't use buckshot for hunting deer in this state and am not a fan of it even if I could. Round ball/Foster style slugs are too limiting for me, I much prefer sabot when hunting. I get better accuracy and especially range out of them when a rifle is not allowed.

Good luck in your endeavors, the 10 ga is a fun gun. I am currently down to just my Mag-10 but the BPS is a good gun. And I fully understand the, "buy if the price is low enough" mentality- I have it bad enough that I buy guns for which ammo has not been made in decades and even back then it was not commonly found. You know you really have it bad when you not only have to resize and/or ream the neck from a parent case but also have to trim off rims and/or cut new extractor grooves!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wildflights: PM sent with my EMAIL.

Uglydog: Thanks for the very complete answers. I have the REM SP-10s and the BPI VP100's in my working order. I also got the x10x gas seals from BPI.

I can pretty well follow the load charts for "full weight" steel and non-toxic alloys, but, lead loads at lower weights don't seem to get much coverage.

I know from your post that you don't have much interest in the low weight loads in the "mighty 10" and I understand. I appreciate your expertise and your input.

v/r rch
 

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I have shot lead loads as light as 1 1/4 oz in the 10 ga but they were in the 3.5" hull and were taken from the free fliers given out by Hercules Powder. This is all the data for such loads that I can remember, BPI had some light load data way, way back but it was basically the Hercules data which one could pick up for free. I can't remember if the Hercules data continued with the change to Alliant and am at work so am not able to check out my old stash of manuals.

I mostly used these loads in the BPS for crows as they would not cycle the Ithaca. Light loads like these in the heavy BPS were nice on the shoulder. Today, my sporting clays gun weighs a bit more than a BPS which results in similar recoil.

There were also 1 5/8 oz loads which would cycle the Ithaca if on the "hot" end and the gun was clean and well lubed. Once it began to get dirty the lighter loads would begin to hang up. The 1 7/8 oz loads functioned as well as the 2 oz loads.

The problem with most 10 ga loads was the need to use filler wads in many loads of even 2 oz when using the 3.5" hull. Having to add multiples of them in even lighter loads took the enjoyment out of loading as it increased the time and effort needed to put a box or two on the shelf.

I am just old and the bloom has faded in my shotshell loading. I started over 4 decades ago and have gone through all the stages. I am now in the quick and simple stage as I have other interests that require the time I used to spend "playing" with loads. Will probably go back to my younger days as everything is cyclical and the urge to "experiment" returns. Best of luck in your search and enjoy it to the fullest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
x101airborne: I have looked at the loads in the archives. I am hoping BPI will republish it's "mighty t0" manual.

uglydog: You got me on the track. I first used "google" and found the castpics website that has the Hercules manuals back to the 90's. I found the 1 1/4 oz green dot loads. Your right. They call for 6 each 1/8" hard cards (actually they call for .135" cards). That's a lot of cards. I finally went to the current Alliant manual, and these same loads are there as well.

All: Is there a down side to using a 1/2" cushion wad and a 1/4" wad as long as it ends up the right stack height? I can't see where pressure would increase when adding a different number of cards "in the cup" as long as the stack height was the same. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Does anyone have a feel for the Cheddite 3.5" factory primed hull as compared to the listed Federal, Remington, or Winchester hulls? I would guess that the straight sided plastic based Cheddite will have more volume than the Winchester taper hulls.

thanks for any input.

rch
 

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I was asked some time ago to post a load I have on a "short" 3/4 ounce load I am currently using. I promised to post it when I got home, but with all the ranch work and deer season in I haven't seen home in about a month since I am staying at the ranches to work. Since I don't have my exact data here, I wont post from memory but will say what I did to develop this load.
I found a load in "load of the week" called "Big Dean". It was a 2 7/8ths high velocity load using HW13 shot as I remember. Since I was wanting to use my 10 gauge double to warm up on some doves before heavy duck / goose season, I adapted this load to fire 3/4 ounce nickel plated lead shot by simply reducing the payload and adding felt spacers to bring it back to stack height. I also reduced the charge of Blue Dot down quite a bit to reduce the velocity. I did not chronograph these loads, but out of the double the recoil is quite pleasant, kills doves great and I don't have to use a whole handful of spacers and such for each shell.
As for the Cheddite hulls, I am currently using them with 1 1/2 ounces of ITX-10 BB shot for sandhills and geese. The hulls seem to work well and last a long time and I have no complaints about the quality. The ITX-10 shot is quite a step up for me in effectiveness over steel shot and it has made me consider ITX-13 #2's for geese but I haven't loaded any yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
x101airborne: Thanks for the follow up on you 3/4 oz load. I understand how you came to your load.

wildlew: The Parkerguns.org site is a Trove of loading data. I joined the site and can now log in, but, I can't touch the spreadsheet that I really want. My account still shows that I can't post to the forums. When I try to open "Pete's" spreadsheet of 10ga Short 10 spreadsheet, I get a screen that says I am not authorized to view it.

Any ideas? Is it a matter or waiting, or do I need a "paid membership"?

There are a LOT of loads just in the posts in the reloading forum. Thanks for sending me to that website.

v/r rch
 

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If you guys go to the 6th page of the first thread and click on - ComprehensiveListofShortTenloads(7.18.15).pdf - I think you will be able to view the files. I'm a member and can't get into the files without going to the 6th page.
 
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