Shotgun Forum banner

honing and polishing a barrel

1829 Views 4 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  RON KONTOWSKY
I was given an old remington model 10 pump that I have only fired once and the empty shell jammed in the breech so bad I had to break the gun down to get it out. The gunsmith said that the bore probably needs to be honed and polished.
My question is; I can buy a shotgun bore hone and or a polishing head for about the same price that the gun smith would charge. How hard is it to hone and polish a bore?
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Don't know about honing, but I just polished the bores on one using a hand drill with an old cleaning rod chucked into it, and various cleaning jigs screwed into the rod. Brass brush with Liquid Wrench to remove any rust; Swab wrapped with 0000 steel wool; Swab covered with a patch with JB Bore Paste on that; Swab covered with a patch with oil, repeat, repeat, repeat. (Remember to use a new swab once in a while - they get dirty and you can't tell if the crud is coming from the bore or the swab itself.) Came out clean as a whistle.

If you really want to hone it, Brownells has several honing systems, ranging from $15 to $125. Keep in mind that honing can take off significantly more metal than simple polishing (which removes some in its own right, though it's a microscopic amount).

-- Sam
See less See more
The bore needing polishing has nothing to do with a shell getting stuck in the chamber. Probably what the gunsmith meant was that the chamber needed polishing. A shotgun bore could be rough as h*ll and still function fine. I definitely would not hone the bore. I would do as SamL suggested. Polish the chamber (and bore too if you feel like it) with a chamber or bore brush with 0000 or 000 steel wool wrapped around the brush. The 000 will work much faster than the 0000. Be sure to use oil or some bore paste as SamL suggested. Also, a good cleaning and then lubrication of all moving parts with Breakfree CLP would probably help to smooth the cycling operation.
A couple suggestions for cleaning up the chamber - get a 10 ga tornado brush, put in on an electric drill, and go to town with some CLP in the chamber - spin it as you work it in and out. A little more drastic suggestion is to go to an auto parts store and get a brake cylinder honing tool - watch the depth when using it, but spin it with a drill and move it in and out slowly.

If the bore is a little cruddy, a 12 ga tornado brush on a drill will clean it up quick (won't do anything for pits, though).
Before going that route, have you had your extractor recut and tuned also replace that spring!

1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.