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Your stack height is low. Is it a tested load? If so, did you substitute wads from a tested load? A few grains of uncooked rice will fix it but answer the other 2 questions first...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your stack height is low. Is it a tested load? If so, did you substitute wads from a tested load? A few grains of uncooked rice will fix it but answer the other 2 questions first...
It is a recipe form the Alliant site. This is the first time that I have used the press. 17 grains of red dot, W209 primer, WAA12 wad, AA hull.
Thanks
 

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It may well be the stack height and not the crimp adjustment. The manual for your press has photos that tell you how to correct crimp cam and depth but those won't help if your stack is too low. Just because a load is listed, doesn't mean it builds well. I found that out early on. If you post your full load details, others may be able to say if it builds well or not. Loads with Winchester style wads tend to stack low for example.
 

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I'm the least one qualified to post on this, but I've loaded more than a few AA's, 1 1/8, WAA12's.

It is possible that charge bar is not 'traveling' properly, so that shot cavity is fully cycling underneath the shot bottle opening? One could easily check by observing the operation without the powder/shot bottles.

Fred
 

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I agree the load component mix looks OK.......and is a stack height problem. Either crushed wad, wrong wad or wrong shot bushing. The depth of the crimp looks right as is, but when final crimp punch bottoms out, there is nothing below the petal tips to hold them up.

If that was me on my press, after I dropped the shot and before I did a pre-crimp, I'd inspect the load to verify the shot is to the top of the cup (if that is indeed a AA12 wad or similar clone (CB1118-12), and top of wad is where it ought to be in relation to the crimp fold line on the hull. If you get that right, it almost always comes out right.
 

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The stack height may be adequate.

Adjustments are easier to come by than different components.

1) there isn't enough plastic to meet in the middle.

2 load one and watch the wad pressure gauge. If it moves, adjust the wad pressure to near zero ... just the tiniest amount of movement is all that's needed ; just enough to insure the wad is touching the powder.
3) adjust the pre-crimp die down to gather more plastic...an opening the diameter of a pencil is a good place to start.
4) your crimp appears plenty deep enough ... perhaps too deep. You can back off on the crimp punch until the crimp is just crisply defined and about the thickness of a dime or a bit less. Punching too deeply can pull plastic away from the center. As long as the crimp is flat or slightly depressed, you've enough.

With adjustments you can cover the entire range of a swirled center to a hole that lets shot escape.

You can do all that in a pleasant, educational half hour.
 

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Measure the distance from the top of your hull to the top of your stack. Should be .375 or a little more. If you are more than .450, try a Rem type wad like CB8118 or CB8100 depending on 1 1/8 or 1 oz load. Rem wads are taller than WAA wads. I had dished crimps when I tried a Lyman load with Win style wads. Red Dot is about the lowest density powder so should give more stack height than less.
 

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I keep a few thousand over shot cards around on my loading bench (from BP) in 28 ga.size. When I come across a load that seemingly doesn't want to crimp well because the stack is to short I drop one of the little cards on top and bingo, a nice flat crimp. They work well in 12,16,& 20 gauge reloads and do not impact performance at all, try it.
 
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