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Bowl, First of all know that it is all going to be fine.

That load recipe should be resulting in perfect crimps, so if powder weight, shot weight and wad have been confirmed then I vote for a crushed wad, but with that hole and dishing, it would be quite a lot of crushing going on.

Put the machine in single stage mode.

The cam screw should be in the middle of the adjustment slot.

The wad pressure indicator should just wiggle when the handle is full down - Make sure the handle is going full down (search this forum if needed). Adjust the wad pressure indicator so it just wiggles on bottom of stroke.

Adjust pre-crimp at Station 4 as mentioned so the hole will just barely hold a primer, or about the size of a pencil

Adjust the punch in Station 5. It looks to me like there is maybe a little too much depth in the current punch setting.

At this point the crimp should look pretty good. Adjust the cam if necessary - If there is a little hole adjust down, or the opposite is swirls needing to move the cam up. Cam adjustments should be very small increments.

Keep us posted!
 

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Until bowlbouondgma returns and answers the question. About wad pressure. There's nothing to do or talk about. I am guessing he has a significant amount of wad pressure. Next would be wrong wad. But until he returns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Bowl, First of all know that it is all going to be fine.

That load recipe should be resulting in perfect crimps, so if powder weight, shot weight and wad have been confirmed then I vote for a crushed wad, but with that hole and dishing, it would be quite a lot of crushing going on.

Put the machine in single stage mode.

The cam screw should be in the middle of the adjustment slot.

The wad pressure indicator should just wiggle when the handle is full down - Make sure the handle is going full down (search this forum if needed). Adjust the wad pressure indicator so it just wiggles on bottom of stroke.

Adjust pre-crimp at Station 4 as mentioned so the hole will just barely hold a primer, or about the size of a pencil

Adjust the punch in Station 5. It looks to me like there is maybe a little too much depth in the current punch setting.

At this point the crimp should look pretty good. Adjust the cam if necessary - If there is a little hole adjust down, or the opposite is swirls needing to move the cam up. Cam adjustments should be very small increments.

Keep us posted!
Thank you so much! I loaded about 25 today and made some adjustments as I moved along, the hole did tighten up. However, a few crimps look perfect but most look ugly. I will go back tomorrow and follow your suggestions. Thanks
 

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In regards to the picture above, one is perfect, one red hull had a bad pre crimp so it got bad results at the crimp station.
As to the grey AA, looks a little dished to me. Not all AA hulls are the same OAL, the tall ones will be slightly dished. We have 2 choices here
1) live with it and load all AA's at the same time
2) sort hulls by color and length, long or short.
Steve
 

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Bowl,

Making progress! That red hull with funky crimp could just be a one-off as you shouldn't get a lot of those, but it happens occasionally. If it happens regularly - like more than 1 in a hundred - If you acquired the machine used, make sure the pre-crimp is an 8-pt (for those AA's) and that it rotates freely. If is the old metal kind, there is disc-like insert in a metal case that can be switched out 8-pt to 6-pt. The disc spins around freely in the case. The black plastic pre-crimp (Spindex) spin around on a ball/post.
 

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just an FYI 1-1/8 oz bars rarely if ever drop 1-1/8 oz unless your using like number-9 chilled.
all of my Bushings drop almost 1/16oz light with 8 and 7-1/2 shot.
my 1-1/16 oz bushing drops like 2-3 pellets of number-8 over 1 ounce.
 

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Add a 5/8 disc made from the primer carton cardboard on top of your shot. Been doing that to my light loads for a while to keep things uniform. If you get a hole nothing falls out.
 

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Add a 5/8 disc made from the primer carton cardboard on top of your shot. Been doing that to my light loads for a while to keep things uniform. If you get a hole nothing falls out.
Yes, that can be done and it is a great trick when all else fails or using buffer to help keep the buffer from leaking out. I do that on some 20 ga SWH in 3/4 oz to get a nice flat and closed up crimp. My only option is cereal or rice or move up to 7/8 but for my purpose I want to use that hull and the 3/4 oz and the OS card is less trouble than the food.
Get an arch punch the size needed (1/2" 20 ga; 5/8" 12 ga), stack several primer cartons together - or I like 12-pack soda cartons, use the punch like a chisel and smack it with a hammer using a plastic cutting board or piece of lumber as a backstop. Punch out several thousand in no time. Gloves and safety glasses recommended.
General Tools 1271G Arch Punch, 5/8-Inches - Hand Tool Arch Punches - Amazon.com


But - Bowl's load with those hulls should be able to get set up to not need overshot cards. With the variation in hull lengths, as SteveY mentioned, he can sort the hulls by hull length and run them in those batches with slilght adjustments between batches to get the good crimps. Or he could set up the machine to get perfect crimp on the short hulls and trim the long hulls to match the short hulls - and before anyone says that is stupid, maybe Bowl's situation is he needs to get out of the house any chance he gets - "Honey, I'm going back to the garage to trim more hulls".

Or, set up the machine to have no holes on the shorter hulls, and deal with the swirls that occur on the longer hulls.

Or collect and use hulls with a more consistent OAL like cheap Federal hulls, most euro hulls,

Also still needs to check the pre-crimp point count to make sure it matches what is being built =- 6 pt or 8 pt petals.
 

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The only thing that will fix this is more stack height here. no adjustment to the crimping set up will fix this and increasing pre-crimp will make it worse! Not sure why a published recipe would not stack right, but I have seen it before. First, check your components, recipe and wad pressure (the loader should just set the wad on the powder and not compress it) !! I DO NOT recommend deviating from a published recipe, but if I had this problem and if if everything is actually correct to recipe and I would also have the 1 oz CB wad at hand, I'd load the shell with 1 1/8 oz. shot using the CB 1 oz. wad. The 1 oz. wad has a minimally shorter cup and more height, but the same ballistics as the 1 1/8 oz CB wad. It will increase your column height ever so slightly and could easily resolve your issue. You could also try an overshot card or buffer if you want to stick with the 1 1/8 oz. wad, but it makes the loading process cumbersome and slow.

Attached are pictures of all CB Win clone wads. Left to right: 1 1/4 oz yellow - 1 1/8 oz. white - 1 oz. rose - 7/8 oz. grey - 3/4 oz. pink

Wad height
The 1 1/4 oz. and the 1 1/8 oz. wads have a height of 42 mm
The 1 oz. wad has a height of 44 mm
The 7/8 oz. and 3/4 oz. wads have a height of 46 mm

Shot cup depth
The 1 1/4 oz. and 1 1/8 oz. wads have a cup depth of 20.5 mm
The 1 oz. , 7/8 oz. and 3/4 oz. wads all have a cup depth of 17.5 mm

For all I know, and I have measured these 100 times, the 1 1/4 and 1 1/8 oz wads are 100% identical, just the color differs. The 1 oz. wad is unique. The 7/8 oz. and 3/4 oz. wads are identical as well, except the 3/4 oz. has a raised button in the bottom of the shot cup to reduce shot cup volume.
 

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Sometimes those grey AA hulls will have a short one that has a giant hole in the middle. You should try another one.

As far as making the adjustments on the machine goes, reading your user manual is better than trying advice from the internet. MEC has free manuals on their site and there you will find answers to any questions regarding machine setup.
 

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Sometimes those grey AA hulls will have a short one that has a giant hole in the middle. You should try another one.

As far as making the adjustments on the machine goes, reading your user manual is better than trying advice from the internet. MEC has free manuals on their site and there you will find answers to any questions regarding machine setup.
The user manual does not explain the importance of the precrimp in the formation of a good crimp nor does it discuss the various problems that variation in shell length or internal volume of the hull can cause.
We try to give better help here at SGW instead of simply telling a member to " Read the Manual".
 

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As far as making the adjustments on the machine goes, reading your user manual is better than trying advice from the internet. MEC has free manuals on their site and there you will find answers to any questions regarding machine setup.
MEC's user manuals dont scratch the surface of what info should be in it. IMO.
Steve
 

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I still don’t know how to put it into single stage mode
If it's a MEC 650, MEC Grabber or 9000 load 1 shell at a time until finished. If you want to stop the shell carrier plate from advancing on the 9000 remove this part from the lower right side of the machine.
Eyebrow Human body Gesture Eyelash Slope

Steve
 
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