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If you are using a proper load and learn to adjust the machine you shouldn't need to apply band aids to your shells.
Agreed.

A typical trap shooter loading 4000-6000 practice shells per year can't be bothered with over the shot cards, adding cheerios or rice, or whatever suggestions may have been offered.

Now, if you're only loading a couple of boxes for hunting loads, and you can't get your loader or the hulls to cooperate, then some of those suggestions might be helpful. YMMV
 

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View attachment 55740
My first one off the MEC grabber 76 and I have a bad crimp. Any advice
Adjust your final crimper in the back left, take a half inch open end wrench and loosen the tightening nut, back off the threaded bolt with a blade screwdriver, re-tighten the nut.
Back off some of the wad pressure ram tube in the front right with an Allen wrench and the crimp should be fine.
Mike
 

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Everytime I pull the handle it will drop shot and powder.
Well that is fixable, it should not operate that way if correctly set up and adjusted.
Steve

Here is some good reading material on that subject.
 

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Steve,

As I understand Bowl's situation, he has an older Model 76 Grabber and I had recommended he put it in single stage mode while he worked out the adjustments and doesn't know how to put it in single stage mode - not necessary for making the adjustments but is helpful for me sometimes working out an issue or for putting together hunting loads when I want to check at various points how things are going.

This works for me: Unhook the primer feed assembly spring so it doesn't drop a primer every time the handle is pulled. remember to hand place the primer. Remember to hand place the primer. Empty the carousel of all partially finished hulls. Tilt the bottles back far enough so all the shot falls out of the charge bar. While tilted back, push the charge bar to the left until the bar lock engages. If the bar lock doesn't engage, investigate why - probably missing bar lock spring - but hopefully it locks. Tilt the bottles back forward. So now the charge bar is locked in the leftward position so powder will fill the bushing/powder hole of the charge bar. You are now in single stage mode - no hulls in the carousel and the bar locked to the left.

Now progress just one hull through the machine. At Station 1 deprime - the charge bar may wiggle but it should stay locked left. Place primer. Move hull to Station 2, do not put in another hull in Sta. 1, pull handle. Primer will seat and the bar lock should disengage so on the upstroke the bar will return to the right thus dropping powder and loading the shot in the charge bar. If you have a mess on your hands at this point something went wrong.

Progress to Station 3, place wad, pull handle. Wad will seat, shot will drop, and charge bar will lock again in the leftward position. if not, but it locked initially, and adjustment is needed - see posts SteveY sent above. Hopefully it locks left and you can progress to Station 4 pre-crimp, Station 5 crimp, and Station 6 taper.

Repeat.

Bottles tilted back, bar to the right (progressive mode)
Bottle Glass bottle Barware Nail Machine



Bottles tilted back, bar locked left
Wood Drinkware Nail Guitar Machine


Bar lock engaged at beginning of single stage mode:
Motor vehicle Bicycle part Bumper Machine tool Gas



At downstroke of Station 2, the bearing will push the bar to the left and the bar lock will disengage. When the handle is released and moves up, the bar will move to the right.
Motor vehicle Bicycle part Picture frame Bicycle handlebar Gas


At downstroke of Station 3, the bar will move left and lock.
Bicycle part Motor vehicle Gas Wood Bicycle handlebar
 

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In the pic on the OP, the crimp depth is way too deep. It's depth should be about equal to the thickness of a dime. The depth on the pix in post #26 look to be a bit shallower, but still too deep. I'm guessing the length of the hull in the pic in the OP is a particularly short one. Adjust the final crimp die and reduce the crimp depth. It's the added crimp depth that is causing that big hole in the middle.

Judging the by load, Red Dot in a AAHS with 1 1/8 oz of shot and a 1 1/8 oz AA wad, it's more likely your stack height is too tall rather than too short. If you have one of those headband LED headlights, put the middle of a loaded hull in front of it and "candle" it to see of the wad's crush section is compressed. If it is, the stack height is too tall.
 

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Thanks for all the advice. I still have a ton of questions coming. The machine was set up with the six pedal pre-cramp not the eight pedal. After adjusting the cam and swapping out the pre-crimp it appears to be working well. I still don’t know how to put it into single stage mode View attachment 55889
So what change fixed it?
 

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If you go to mecs website you you can down load how to set this press up and troubleshoot any problems you may have
A simple cam adjustment will close the shell. Read your manual or call Mec.
Once you guys are with SGW longer you will come to learn how truly poor MEC's manuals are at troubleshooting most issues and that they are not always the correct solution.
Steve
 

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The user manual does not explain the importance of the precrimp in the formation of a good crimp nor does it discuss the various problems that variation in shell length or internal volume of the hull can cause.
We try to give better help here at SGW instead of simply telling a member to " Read the Manual".
Sure, I agree with you. Having 19 different suggestions might not be helpful either. I’ll correct myself, I should have said…”Referencing the user manual is a good place to start when diagnosing issues”.

Then again maybe that only worked for me because I am used to using many different machines on a daily basis. I only have my perspective.
 

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Guy, he's loading with a Progressive press. It's not at all convenient to add in shot cards or grains of rice to the shot charge. What needs to be done here is adjust the crimp and it'won't take much adjustment to get that done because this crimp is very close to good enough.

Step One, Drop the Pre-crimp about 1/32 inch. It's a 1/4-20 thread on the post so 1/2 turn on the nut will equal 0.025 inch. So that nut ABOVE the mounting plate, observe the position at start and unscrew that nut by 3.5 flats on the nut. Then take the nut UNDER the mounting plate and tighten in by 3.5 turns.

Step two is an adjustment to the cam that controls the timing between the Final Crimp Die and the Final Crimp Stem. IMO what needs to be done here is to DELAY the timing for the Final Crimp Die. With the press empty of shells take a close look at the interaction between the Cam and Die at the Final Crimp. What you need to do here is to loosen the adjustment screw and LIFT the working surface of the Cam by a Small amount.

Once you have made these test adjustments run one single shell through the press and look at the final crimp. If you have a nicely closed crimp DO NOT worry about a bit of a dish, it will have no effect on the pattern or produced velocity. With a Progressive press you don't fuss about any supposed "defect" that doesn't effect the performance of the shell. Because there will be times when the pre-crimp is out of register and produce a really ugly crimp. I'll also note that Winchester AAHS hulls in 28 and 410 start splitting at the 3rd or 4th reload and crimping split hulls will always produce and ugly crimp. f you must have visually perfect crimps then get a Single Stage press and start dropping rice or Cheerios into the shot charge and spend 20 minutes loading just one box of shells.

BTW, I ran out of Universal last weekend and had to change my 9000-g over to Longshot, a much denser powder than Longshot. Which did create what many here call a Stack Height issue. I did the same thing to my press that I've described here and now have a bit of dish to the crimps but the resulting shells don't leak and are good enough to shoot straight with. Can't find any fault with that and I can load a box of shells in 8 minutes without rushing.
 

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Agree his last picture looks pretty good. Could he lower the pre crimp a little? Yes he could. Will it make a big difference? Not really. Leave it alone. At this point you are chasing you ***. ;)
 

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Once you have made these test adjustments run one single shell through the press and look at the final crimp.
This is correct for a fairly new press, but once you get a little wear in the press linkage it isn't.
That is when you need to have all the stations functioning as in production to see what is actually going to be your circumstances when running production. Each station, especially the crimpers, tends to lift the turret a bit removing the slop. That is why you want to have all stations loaded.
 
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View attachment 55740
My first one off the MEC grabber 76 and I have a bad crimp. Any advice
View attachment 55740
My first one off the MEC grabber 76 and I have a bad crimp. Any advice
It could be several things. 1. All shotshell cases are not the same length. 2. I have found on 3 different brands of machines that closing the center hole crimp is always 95 % the pre crimper not bringing the entire outer part of the shell to touching in the center before it reaches the final stage. 3. Winchester AA comes in 2 different lengths if you adjust for the shorter length it will usually work for the longer. 4. I have found that the amount of powder or lead makes little difference to the crimp, if it is over loaded crimp will still closed and look good but crushing the shell in the middle if it is stuffed to tight. If it is under packed it will push the crump in to a concave looking finish. 5. the final recess depth is achieved by adjusting the next stage by adjusting it downward into the shell, your MEC has a bolt coming out the top with a slot cut in for a straight blade screw driver.
 
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