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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I weighed my 1 oz bar today with #8 shot, and it was consistently dropping 408-412 grains, about 25 grains light. I realize that exact drops of powder and shot are not required, especially since I don't reload near max pressures, but I think I would like to get closer on my shot drops. I thought about the Universal Charge Bar, and it will work, but I seldom change loads. Does anyone have an easy, convenient way to open up the standard charge bar to give drops closer to what is marked? I don't have a machine shop at my disposal,so I need a way that is easy to do by hand. Thanks for any ideas!
 

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I don't know much about machining aluminum, but I thot I'd throw in my $.02 for universal charge bars. I've finally got my reloading sequence down and I'm throwing very consistent powder and shot loads with my universal. I wouldn't change for nuttin'.

I know I didn't answer the question, but...
 

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Several ways, for a small amount I use a rattail file and / or a dremel tool, followed up by some scotchbright on a dowel in my cordless drill to clean things up and smooth it out.

you can always use a drill a size or two larger than the current hole and drill into the shot bar from the underside. Don't go very deep with it, and keep checking your drops.

You are talking about a max of another 20-23 or so pellets for 25 grains worth of #8's.

I'd double check and make sure there isn't an issue with the travel distance on your shot bar though. 25 grains sounds like a bit more than I'd expect using a MEC shotbar.

john
 

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John H said:
you can always use a drill a size or two larger than the current hole and drill into the shot bar from the underside. Don't go very deep with it, and keep checking your drops.
This is what I did to my 410 1/2 oz charge bar and it works for me. Just go slow and check the drop often.

Another thing I have found is shot compound makes a difference in the amount of drop. A #8 Chilled / Magnum / Very Hard shot will drop more than #8 shot made of a softer compound. If you intend to keep using your current shot then modify the bar if not then perhaps switching to a different shot wpould make a difference for you.

Dan
 

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before you start drilling , check out a few things. take a new shell, cut her open, & see what the factory gives you. you might be shocked. weigh a target load & a field load also.

chilled, magnum ect will weigh different, also different brands of magnum shot will weigh diferent.

another thought ? when you buy say 1 oz shells, Is the mfg going by weight or volume ? be easy with the driilling, you need a little wiggle room from time to time.
 

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USAFA71,
Opening up a charge bar is not difficult at all and can be accomplished with a rat tail file, (some people have used a chain saw file), a Dremmel tool, or a drill bit, one size larger than the cavity you want to enlarge. Do be careful if using a drill, as it can hang and go too deep very easily if you are not watching closely. Personally, I use a tapered reamer with a very shallow taper, that reams them with precision, and is easily the simplest and easiest way it can be accomplished.

Do your reaming, filing , drilling, from the bottom of the bar. Do not disturb the top side of the bar as that can cause additional problems.

Since NO clay target game has a 1 oz. restriction on shot weight for the 12 ga., being exact isn't any problem. However, I would shoot for a drop of 435 or 437 grains, and call it good. Should there ever be a limit set at 1 oz., there will always be an approx. 10 grain allowance established, so your bar would still be within limits.

DLM
 

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Hello All:

AS already stated by others, there are many methods for opening a bushing.

The best method is if you or your Pals have machine shop capability, an example with pics is shown in this thread:

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=112284&highlight=

If you have to use hand methods, still no problem, the best way is using a tapered reamer as described by D. L. Marcum. However a tapered reamer may be a bit spendy.

The next best method may be using a Dremel tool. Do not use stones. They will load up with Aluminum and lose cutting effciency. The best dremel accessory may be the sanding drum. It will cut aluminum fast and not load up. Their course burrs may work well too.

Grabbing a round file and opening the bushing is just fine.

Drills should be the last choice. Almost all drills are gound with a geometry for cutting steel. When used to cut softer materials, i.e. brass, Aluminum, plastic, their "rake" angles dig into and jam in the material. If you must use a drill do a internet search for "dubbing" a drill. This is regrinding the rake angle suitable for soft materials. Again, it is easier to use a Dremel tool or file.

Here is another thread about altering bushings:

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=145595

It concentrates about making bushings for a MEC bar, but the discussion is good and at the end is a example where a bushing was machined off .005" and then .002" at a time with the corresponding thrown weight changes. It gives you an idea of the the weight change for a SMALL bushing change.

Whether you use Machine shop, Dremel, file, reamer, or drill,

alter a very little at a time, weigh often.

Regards,
 

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First, let me say that the information on this forum is amazing. Sincere thanks to all who contribute. Reading through the posts has solved many-a-problem for me. In return, I'd like to give you some dimensions that worked for me, increasing my MEC 1 oz bar from 412 Grains to 438 Grains.

Enlarging the shot hole to 0.625" (5/8"), to a depth of 1/2" will increase the drop to 438 to 440 Grains, pretty close to 1 oz. These weight measurements were made using #8 Lawrence Magnum shot, which seems to be available at most places where I buy components. Interestingly, it seems like one pellet of this shot comes pretty close to weighing 1 grain. But as many have said earlier, shot can vary in density so I don't know what dimensions will work with other brands / types.

The trick is to get the 5/8" drill bit centered in the shot hole. I did this by using a round file to chamfer the LOWER end of the shot hole large enough to allow the drill bit to enter slightly, thus centering it. With the bar centered on the drill and SECURELY clamped to my drill press table, I CAREFULLY drilled down to a 1/2 inch depth, using light pressure on the drill, which was turning at 1500 RPM.

If you have a drill press handy, or know someone that does, I think this method produces a pretty nice finish, and accurate drops.

Born_2_Shoot
 

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Part of your problem is that you are using Magnum Shot, that has alloying materials in it to give weights substantially lighter than lead.

Pure lead has the highest density (and is very soft), then chilled shot has the next highest density (and is a little harder), and magnum shot is the hardest commercially available, but had the lowest density.

The key point is with the same volume, you will throw the same number of pellets, no matter what the shot density and charge weight is.

So reaming shot bars is really an exercise in futility, more or less. If it makes you feel better, do it, but the overall effect of a few extra pellets on scores is negligible.

BobK
 

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BobK wrote
So reaming shot bars is really an exercise in futility, more or less. If it makes you feel better, do it, but the overall effect of a few extra pellets on scores is negligible. [end quore]

BOB, it's all in how you look at it. Those extra 25 or 30 pellets might make anywhere from 5% to 10% more pellets in the load, depending on gauge and total shot weight, and since the loads are legal with the full weight, why not take advantage of it?? It's got to add at least some density to the pattern, so again, why not take advantage of it? It's easy to do and can't hurt anything. It can only help, even if only slightly.

DLM
 

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Since NO clay target game has a 1 oz. restriction on shot weight for the 12 ga., being exact isn't any problem.
Not correct - FITASC has a 1OZ limitation
 

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oneounceload said:
Since NO clay target game has a 1 oz. restriction on shot weight for the 12 ga., being exact isn't any problem.
Not correct - FITASC has a 1OZ limitation
Yes, BUT Fitasc does not allow reloads so you are factually correct, but it doesn't matter to us reloaders. Therefore the statement stands, since it was about reloading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks everyone for the help. I went to Lowe's and got a 5/8" drill bit, and it worked perfectly. Working slowly, I opened the 1 oz bar from about 400-410 grains, to the full 437 grains, using Lawrence #8 magnum, which is what I always use. Then I tried using #9 magnum, and it throws 440+ grains. That is close enough for my work. Then I opened up my 410 bar using a 7/16" bit. It took about 8-10 tries, going very slowly, to get it to drop a full 218 grains(1/2 oz) of #9 magnum, which is all I use in the 410(skeet only).
If I had it to do again, I think I would just get an adjustable charge bar, only because I do change between #8 and #9 shot, depending on if I am reloading for skeet or sporting clay. I may even start reloading some #7-1/2. I will do some more testing in how much variation I get when using different shot sizes, but since most of my shooting is with #8 and #9, I can probably live with the difference.
Thanks again for all the help. At least now I have some peace of mind that I am throwing the right amount of shot, and there goes one of my excuses for missing!
 

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Curly-Nohair said:
oneounceload said:
Since NO clay target game has a 1 oz. restriction on shot weight for the 12 ga., being exact isn't any problem.
Not correct - FITASC has a 1OZ limitation
Yes, BUT Fitasc does not allow reloads so you are factually correct, but it doesn't matter to us reloaders. Therefore the statement stands, since it was about reloading.
Registered competition does not, however, we have a practice field set up for FITASC and reloads are more than welcome..... :wink:
 

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Yes, BUT Fitasc does not allow reloads so you are factually correct, but it doesn't matter to us reloaders. Therefore the statement stands, since it was about reloading.[/quote]
Registered competition does not, however, we have a practice field set up for FITASC and reloads are more than welcome..... :wink:[/quote]

And with his bar throwing 437 and 440 grs., depending on shot size, whats the problem?? Max shot allowable will be approx. 10 grs above the 437, so he's good for any rule that might be applied.

USAFA71, you did good, and this will maximize your loads.

DLM
 

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Interesting information. Wonder how this extra payload will effect performance of the delivery...
 

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oneounceload said:
Not correct - FITASC has a 1OZ limitation
Yes, BUT Fitasc does not allow reloads so you are factually correct, but it doesn't matter to us reloaders. Therefore the statement stands, since it was about reloading.[/quote]
Registered competition does not, however, we have a practice field set up for FITASC and reloads are more than welcome..... :wink:[/quote]
But again that is of no consequence, I guess they are going to throw you off of the practice field for 10 pellets over max. I doubt it. Most of your buddys are using their 1 1/8 oz loads anyway and just lying to you.
 
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