http://www.investarm.com/media/pdf/espl ... to-eng.pdf

Standard inertia reset on the triggers, so either you are bumping the trigger on the recoil to cause the second shot, or releasing the trigger just enough that as the inertia block releases off the from sear via recoil and come back forward, the block sear can get under the second sear to wedge it up to cause the second hammer to be release as well.

With the stock off the shotgun, pull the trigger to release the first hammer and hold the trigger back. Now pull the inertia block back, and make sure that as the inertia block moves back forward, the block sear contact the back edge of the forward second hammer sear well above the bottom edge of the sear. That way, the trigger has to be release almost all the way to the at rest position all the way forward before the inertia block sear will drop under and seat under the forward sear for the second hammer.

 

Thanks so much Dano! I am going to take the stock off and read your post a hunfreds or so until i inderstand it. I am super good with internals of a 1911 but have mever really looked at the inside of an over under.

Thanks for the info!

 

Get me a photo of the inertia block sear against the back of the forward sear with the trigger head back, and the block tripped off the first forward sear.

Also, right after you take the picture and have the trigger still help back, push hard forward on the back of the entire block. If pushing the inertia block forwards as its sear is on the back side of the forward sear trips the second hammer, you have a huge problem with forward sear to hammer engaugement.

Also to point out, the inertia block sear should not slip under the forward sear until the trigger is almost at its forward rest position (maybe a hair short of the point). If the block sear slips under the forward sear with the trigger only sightly released, your going to end up bumping the trigger way to may times to cause the self induced bump double fire (shotgun dancing off your finger instead when held loosely to cause the double trigger pull).

 

would you be willing to sell the 410 o/u

 

would you be willing to sell 410 o/u

 

Sorry i missed your posts. Had not thought of selling it. What would you offer?

Still doubles for me but i have learned to control it for the most part. When the wheels start to fall off a round of skeet it seems to double more often... Not sure why.

 

Dano,

I think this is the photo you asked for. Broke the gun open and put in 2 snap caps. Pulled the trigger and watched the first hammer fall.

I kept the trigger back moved the inertia block back and then forward against the sear. That is what the image shows.

i spent a lot of time trying to read your messages and looking and the parts diagram to understand better how the gun works and what you were looking to see to help me. I learn a fair amount but not sure if am any closer to finding the cause.

To me it seems that you really have to ease the trigger almost all the way forward before the block falls far enough down to engage the forward sear, if i am saying that correctly.

Also the engagement of the sear and the hammer block looks clean and sharp. The edges are very 90 degree and not rounded or broken. Also pushing forward would not cause any release or dropping of the hammer.

I always thought that an o/u with an inertia trigger needed a bump to fire? I certainly have not trouble pulling the trigger twice with this gun.

I am sure i made a mess of your request but i have the gun apart and i would like to work through this problem if you are still up for it. Also the gun has probably never been cleaned so if you have any ideas on how i should clean this i would love to hear it. i have never cleaned the inside mechanics of an over under.

 

The receiver needs to be stripped and cleaned for starters. With the amount of crap in there, its half the problem of why the sear is not holding the second hammer to cause the doubling.

Once you get the parts out, would dare to guess with the amount of rust on the parts, the springs like the sear spring (part 23) have rusted as well, and caused them to go weak. Or it could be with the amount of crap in the receiver, the sear are binding up in the upper channels for them instead, and the problem at hand.

To short bus it, once you have the parts in hand and cleaned, start going through the sear contact edges to make sure that they are still sharp, and make sure to check the springs to make sure that they are still strong and not snapped.

P.S. Too bad I'm still on the road. Looking at the picture, would take me about a hour to have the shotgun right as rain, including using Brasso on the receiver to pull the discoloring marking as well.

 

thanks Dano. I will start the cleaning process. Am i really supposed to take all the parts out first? that makes me a little nervous. Do i use like a remmington action cleaner on those parts?

I am a great shot thanks to my father, but he does not clean his guns and in turn i do not know how.

 

Don't take it all apart. Get some good metal cleaner and soak and spray it a lot until all the gunk is gone. Blow out the action then spray it with something like Remoil then blow out the excess lube.

 

Don't take it all apart. Get some good metal cleaner and soak and spray it a lot until all the gunk is gone. Blow out the action then spray it with something like Remoil then blow out the excess lube.

OK. I will start there and try to clean while it is still together.

 

To much rust in the works for PB scrubber to get all the rusting out of the inner workings.

The receiver needs to be stripped down, all WD-40 soaked, then every nook and cranny chased with a scrub brush to get all the rusting out, including removing the rusting on the parts as well. Once you have everything cleaned, then double check the springs for the amount of rust on them, and if they needed to be replace or not.

Again, the problem is the sears (rusting of them in there slots in the upper frame that is causing them not to have a good grip on to hammer sear as the first one falls), and for this, you need to drop the lower receiver away from the upper receiver to remove the sears from the top frame to clean up that mess/check the spring to see if they need to be replaced.

If pulling the receiver down it beyond you, then take the shotgun into a smith to have him do it instead. With the amount of rust you see, the amount that you don't see is even worse. Trust me, you don't catch/correct it now in the receiver inner workings, the shotgun is going to be nothing by trash very soon.

And again, the PB scrubber is just going to remove the oils/grease in the gun, and not remove the now dry rust partials that you have removed all the lube with the PB scrubber. The PB scrubber may help a tad, but in the short run, the dry rust partials are going to break free/cause excess wear, and will be right back in the same boat (or worse with more parts having to be replaced shortly later since the gun was not torn down and cleaned/de-rusted now).

 

just a bit of an update. i cleaned the ever loving heck out of the inside. Dano i just could not bring myself to take it apart yet. i know you are right but i am afraid that i will break or lose something that cannot be replaced. i have taken a a couple of my firearms all the way down but in a couple of those cases a spring was lost or broke. these were common guns so no big deal a replacement springs were easy and cheap.

i cleaned it up as best as i could and it looks a 1,000 times better. Also i took some advice that i got from another shooter. they noticed i was keeping my finger pretty deep into the the trigger guard. i was resting my finger on the trigger pretty close the first knuckle. i did not know i did this and i have fairly big hands for this little .410. Now it manipulate the trigger with just the tip of my finger.

Last night i shot 5 full rounds of skeet without a single problem. it was shooting great and i was able to focus on shooting the birds and not thinking about the gun. shot my first 25 in .410 last night, petty happy about it.

thanks for all your help. for now i am going to consider this fixed. i know i am not doing the gun any favors for the long run but it is not exactly a family heirloom.

 

Sorry forgot all about my post would u sell it for 375 and i pay for shipping

 

This piece has worked fine for 30+ years....yesterday it faulted. The barrels don't lock after re-loading and the Top Opening Lever doesn't reposition. I can manually lock the barrels by manually closing and rotating the lever back. Cleaned the complete receiver casing....no grit....still doesn't work. Don't want to strip it all the way down.....so.....can you recommend a good gunsmith. I'm in Maryland so the closer the better.

Thanx

Tom Cuddington
tecudd#comcast.net