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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I have a 25 year-old Franchi Peregrine 400 that I picked up a few weeks ago.

When I pack it up, I load snap caps and drop both triggers. Then I remove the fore-end, remove the barrel, and put the top lever back to center position. That's how I generally store it.

Now when I go to assemble it again, I usually just reverse the procedure. I've been making it a point to put the snap caps back into the barrel as well, so that when it's all back together and I break it open for the first time, the ejectors have something to, well... eject. :D

I've only been doing that because I didn't know if it was bad practice to "dry-fire" ejectors. Does it really make any difference? The other thing is that these snap caps are considerably heavier than spent hulls, so maybe I'm putting unnecessary stress on the ejectors when I use them with the dummy shells.

New owner paranoia, I know... but maybe someone can put my mind at ease...

thanks
 

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Sander, if the weight of the caps you are using bothers you (and I think that may be a reasonable thought), pick up a couple of those clear/red plastic snap caps--they don't weigh too much more than an empty shell.

Or, just use empty shells as your snap caps--after you've painted over the end with some fingernail polish to make sure you can tell what is in the gun. Be sure not to get any of the polish on the primer area.

Other than that, I'm not sure what the damage would be.

Just a thought. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmm... I actually already have some of those red/clear snap caps in my big box of "Miscellaneous Shotgun Parts".

You're right, I'll just switch to those instead of the heavy A-Zooms I'm using now...
 

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If, however, your gun has really healthy ejectors (like my Ruger Red Labels) it takes about a half-dozen shots for the ejectors to crack the rim on the red plastic snap-caps.

Anybody want some snap caps with no rims?

I went to the brass shorties with the wool mop on the end - not as heavy as the full-length brass, and with a shot of CLP on the mop, they help keep the chambers clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's interesting, I've never seen that kind of snap cap with the wool on the end...

Do you happen to know of a web site I could browse to that carries them?
 

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Sander said:
...
I've only been doing that because I didn't know if it was bad practice to "dry-fire" ejectors. Does it really make any difference? The other thing is that these snap caps are considerably heavier than spent hulls, so maybe I'm putting unnecessary stress on the ejectors when I use them with the dummy shells....
If you're concerned about the weight of the snap caps, then I hate to tell you that unfired rounds probably weigh much more than the snap caps. Have you compared the weight of the caps to loaded shells?

I don't have the technical specs for the metals used and the stresses the ejectors go through (empty, spent hulls, loaded hulls, etc...) but I would assume the designers of the guns would take into consideration the function of the ejectors and design them not to break or wear excessively with normal use.

WWB said:
...Anybody want some snap caps with no rims?
No thanks, I already have some. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
And here I'd thought I'd seen everything Cabela's had to offer... :shock:

But what do you guys think of just letting the ejectors snap up with nothing in them? That probably isn't too stressful on the gun either, or is it?
 

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b540glenn,

If the shell is still loaded, that means you didn't fire it, and the ejector won't try to eject it... the extractor function will just lift it as the gun is opened.

But as to the stresses on the parts - I don't see it as a problem. The ejector is pushed by a spring - and that spring pushes with the same force whether there is a shell in the chamber or not.

The inertia load of an empty hull (or even a loaded one) is transmitted almost straight down the mechanism (very slight shear load at the lip, and very slight bending load at the corner in the ejector rod).
 
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