Hey all!
Sorry I haven't been posting lately --been busy running the dog, working, family, etc...
As to the question at hand: I have an Arrieta 578 that is set up this way, so it got me thinking about my right-handed Ugartechea M-30. As a result, one day I decided to take the plunge and switch the triggers just as described. I found that the position of the sears was identical from left to right and all I simply simply had to do was switch the triggers. Super easy. The hardest part, as always, was getting that damn screw out of the bottom plate without messing it up. It was very tight, but I finally got it and didn't tear it up. As I said, the actual process of switching the trigger was a piece of cake, but there are several things to consider. First is the triggers were set up with a slight bend in them for a right handed shooter. That bend keeps the triggers --especially the rear one--, tucked neatly under the trigger guard. What I did was put them in a leather padded vice and heat them with a simple propane torch and bent them the opposite direction to get them where I wanted --tucked back under the trigger guard. This was not hard to do and the trigger blanks are not super sensitive parts in the sense of case hardening. Bending the triggers to fit under the guard is very important because I found that if I didn't do this, the rear trigger would have stuck out from under the guard and possibly could have gotten hung up on clothing, brush, or something else. You definitely do not want that! The next thing to consider was once I got those triggers bent where I wanted them and the gun reassembled, I checked the trigger pulls on each trigger. The rear trigger should have broke with less weight than the front since I switch them. But in my case, I found that the front trigger and the rear trigger broke both at 7 lbs. --with the rear trigger perhaps breaking only a 1/16 of pound less than the front on some tests. That is close enough for me, but I wouldn't want the rear trigger breaking a 1/2 lb. less than the front. If that happened, the gun would have gone off to the shop. My suspicion as to why I did not see a significant difference perhaps has to do with the position and shape of the trigger as well as the actual sear adjustment. I am suspecting that the shape of the front trigger and the leverage involved helps that trigger break easier than the rear. Hence I did not need to adjust the sears or trigger pull. But that is something I would definitely check. Further more, I am not stupid or brave enough to attempt to file the sears and adjust the trigger pulls myself --I would leave that part of the job for a competent gunsmith and besides I am satisfied with what I have. So, that leaves my final consideration which is to change my chokes on this gun. My gun was originally set up M/F --firing the right barrel first as a modified choke. What I want to do is ream out my left barrel from F to IC since that is the barrel that now the barrel that fires first. This is going to save me a little money because if I would have left the gun alone, I would have had to alter two chokes to get a IC/M choked gun. Now, all I have to change is one barrel. The whole process for me took about two hours work, with plenty of interruptions and taking my time.
My question now is, should I have the choke altered by a professional smith or should I purchase the reamers and do the work myself. I am very tempted to do the latter since reaming out a choke does not seem that hard and can be done with about $150 - $200 worth of tools.
Here is where I am hoping Kyrie or Chorizo will chime in... guys, is this something I should attempt myself?
