[ninepointer]

I ordered the red plastic PC powder baffle, but they shipped me grey alloy one made by Multi-scale. Is it useful or junk?

 

[bprater]

ninepointer -

This is another one of those questions that usually generates some controversy. Probably 8 or 9 out of 10 of the folks on the forum think the alloy powder baffle is not very good and much prefer the Red PC Baffle. One or 2 out of 10 will come on and state how much they like the alloy baffle.

Personally, I much prefer the Red PC Baffle and the one time I tried the metal one, it just didn't work very well for me.

 

[Tin Man]

Yep that's the way it works, I loaded with MEC machines for about 12 years using the metal Multi-Scale baffle without a hitch. Actually it is more a issue of what type/brand of powder you are using so a large flake will meter excellent compared to a ball type powder with or without a baffle.

It's a MEC website supporting the Red PC so everyone has a opinion of what works best. I woke up and smelled the roses two years ago and found out life is better without MEC reloaders, the equipment I now reload with requires no baffle other than installed in the shot and powder hoppers, actually not a baffle but a metal strap to prevent packing of the powder at the bushing. Never a static electricity peoblem as well, your next question I'm sure. Why not give what they sent you a try and go from there, your scale will tell tell the truth....

TM

 

[Smelly Benelli]

I have the metal baffle and never had any problems with it. I have never used the red plastic baffle. Most (vocal) people here like the plastic one.

If you ordered the plastic baffle, make the place that sent you the wrong one send you the right one and pay for return shipping for the metal one.

 

[Republican]

I ordered the red plastic PC powder baffle, but they shipped me grey alloy one made by Multi-scale.

heh, - I think there's a message there.

 

[DrMike]

I ordered the red plastic PC powder baffle, but they shipped me grey alloy one made by Multi-scale.

heh, - I think there's a message there.

Let me guess.... the message is that someone, either the person placing the order or the one filling it, made an error that is most likely easily corrected. Is that right or have I missed something?

To the OP... as others have posted, some reloaders prefer the plastic baffle and some prefer the metal one. Some powders flow better through the plastic one and some work better through the metal one. All of these can also be influenced by how securely your press is bolted down and how you have mitigated the periodic changes in humidity and static electricity in your reloading area. Only you can determine if the metal or plastic baffle, or no baffle at all, works best for your particular setup, style and load.

 

[kosmo]

Meh. This is a religious discussion for some. I understand both sides of the argument.

For the powders I use (Clays, International, Universal, Longshot) I have both and I dont see the metering difference between either. I use them interchangeably.

I like the design of the PC since it makes a fairly tight seal against the charge bar, but I keep the appropriate washers under the MS and it works fine too. I am not, however, a fan of the fact that my PC baffles have cracked/split for seemingly no good reason at all.

I dont reload .410 YET, so I am sure that a PC baffle will be used on that, since I hear W296 / H110 is a pain right in the nads when it comes to leakage.

If I were you, Id complain. Especially if they will send you the PC and let you keep the MS for free ;-)

 

[Curly N]

I am not, however, a fan of the fact that my PC baffles have cracked/split for seemingly no good reason at all.

You are aware that Kevin has offered to replace any of those baffles that have cracked or broken along with sending a bag of wads for the trouble?

 

[kosmo]

You are aware that Kevin has offered to replace any of those baffles that have cracked or broken along with sending a bag of wads for the trouble?

Yeah, after some time with the shipping department misplacing my package, Kevin replaced my baffle very willingly, but no wads.

 

[Zeeba]

Does the plastic baffle have to be so difficult to attach and remove? I broke a MEC powder bottle the other day because I had to squeeze so hard while removing the baffle. Does the metal baffle screw on and off more easily?

 

[Ka6otm]

Does the plastic baffle have to be so difficult to attach and remove? I broke a MEC powder bottle the other day because I had to squeeze so hard while removing the baffle. Does the metal baffle screw on and off more easily?

To get in the discussion first, I'll mention that I've used the metal baffle for around 20 years or so, actually 2 of them, with absolutely no complaints or problems and very uniform drops with the powders I've used, which are limited I admit.

Secondly, the metal baffle screws on and off very easily, no real effort required to get it on or off.

I can't comment about the plastic baffle as I've never used or owned one, but I see no reason for me to change which one I use as of this point.

I will point out, though, that I have to keep fabric softener sheets in my plastic hoppers for my powder dispensers because of static issues, so in a way I'm glad I don't have plastic baffles.

 

[Bama73]

Like has been said everyone has their different opinions. I prefer the metal baffle to the plastic one for my use (Promo). With the metal baffle I avg a +/- .2 grains variation. When I tried the plastic one for some reason it didn't work for me at all, +/- 3-4 grains.

 

[Tangarm]

Dr. Mike wrote.

To the OP... as others have posted, some reloaders prefer the plastic baffle and some prefer the metal one. Some powders flow better through the plastic one and some work better through the metal one. All of these can also be influenced by how securely your press is bolted down and how you have mitigated the periodic changes in humidity and static electricity in your reloading area. Only you can determine if the metal or plastic baffle, or no baffle at all, works best for your particular setup, style and load.

Read more: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=258216#ixzz1XJ0sVnZR

Try them both and find what works for you.

 

[DEG]

I am not, however, a fan of the fact that my PC baffles have cracked/split for seemingly no good reason at all.

You are aware that Kevin has offered to replace any of those baffles that have cracked or broken along with sending a bag of wads for the trouble?

But he's not very reliable at it. I returned a broken one with a print-out of the forum page he posted with instructions.. After a few months of hearing nothing, I e-mailed and received a new baffle but never received the wads. Last week the new baffle split. All 3 baffles I purchased within the last few years have split, yet the one I purchased over 10 years ago is still going strong. I believe something has changed with the plastic formula making the newer one's more subject to breaking and I don't believe it's been fixed.

 

[bprater]

I am not, however, a fan of the fact that my PC baffles have cracked/split for seemingly no good reason at all.

You are aware that Kevin has offered to replace any of those baffles that have cracked or broken along with sending a bag of wads for the trouble?

But he's not very reliable at it. I returned a broken one with a print-out of the forum page he posted with instructions.. After a few months of hearing nothing, I e-mailed and received a new baffle but never received the wads. Last week the new baffle split. All 3 baffles I purchased within the last few years have split, yet the one I purchased over 10 years ago is still going strong. I believe something has changed with the plastic formula making the newer one's more subject to breaking and I don't believe it's been fixed.

DEG - I believe you are correct. I think DR changed something in the molding process and the 'new' baffle is not nearly as robust as the 'old' baffle. Further, the threads are uneven and are very difficult to engage with the powder bottle. Whatever changed, it was to the detrement of a once great product. I can no longer recommend the Red Plastic Baffle to new reloaders.

 

[bigrobbierob]

I reload in my garage. I got to use the Red PC baffle for one winter of loading. Was a PITA to get screwed on correctly but worked great.

Then the AZ summer came. I went back out to my bench at the end of the summer and wouldn't you know, plastic baffle cracked.

Haven't bought a new one since. Might have to get the metal one to see if it will last more than one AZ summer.

 

[Tangarm]

As Curly wrote above contact Downrange and get a new one for free.

 

[jugchoke]

I prefer the red plastic one, but only because of the excellent seal it makes against the top of the charge bar. I have one that is hard to screw on and off, but have never had any that cracked.

The first thing I do with them, is to hog the horizontal baffle vanes out of them, and then use my own version of actual baffle, made by modifying two MEC bottles a bit. The bottom "charging" chamber never holds over 1 1/2 inches of powder and remains constant, no matter how much is in the upper chamber.

I also use a clear plastic drop tube, so I can "visual" the dropping charge.

 

[DBTED]

I don't use any baffles, and also don't have any problems. Try it and you may like it! It also puts an end to the red plastic vs. the metal baffle units! Kills two birds with one stone too!

 

[bigrobbierob]

As Curly wrote above contact Downrange and get a new one for free.

Um yeah, kinda already threw it away....