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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for some info on an LC Smith SxS (ser. # RE544xx) my friend just brought me. He's older, asked my help and looking to sell. It's a "Specialty Grade" with 30 in. barrels. Has scroll engraving on the sides (a duck on right side, a grouse on left), bottom of action, bottom of trigger, trigger tang, etc. Right barrel is marked(on top): "LC Smith Specialty Grade" and an arrow pointing toward breech; left barrel is marked "Hunter Arms Co. Inc M'fers Fulton, N.Y. USA" with arrow pointing toward breech. A red recoil pad's been installed, apparently aftermarket as workmanship's atrocious.

There's considerable blue loss and pitting on both barrels. Lot of rust inside on extractors and bores. I'm not even close to an expert, but guessing 50-60%(?) What does he have and an approx. value span, please. This guy knows practically nothing about guns and obviously nothing about taking care of 'em. Any help appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Never mind. Found an old "Blue Book" and got the info I wanted.
 

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The % does not refer to bluing but case color. I doubt if by your description that it has more than 10%. The pitted area would dop that even more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, PeterB. This gun's basically a hundred to 3 hundred dollar shooter according to the "Blue Book" I have, so it doesn't really matter. Old guy was hopin' he had an heirloom!
 

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A lot of Specialty grade Smiths had pretty nice wood, if the stock is sound, its worth about $200, an ejector forend another $100, the gun is probably worth at least $300 for parts..Bushrod
 

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Spud,

If you are in north Idaho, truck the L.C. Smith down to the new big C in Post Falls/Stateline. Seems like those boys will buy anything!!
 

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A Specialty grade in nice but not perfect condition is about a $1200 gun.

The really hot LC's now are the pre-1913 guns which were beautifully made. In fact all guns were made better pre-War. That is true for both pre-WW1 and WW2.

We are currently in another Golden Age of gunmaking with many fine makers doing some great work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Can't get the forearm off. The release is a button that you kinda roll forward, but the forearm won't come off and I don't want to bust something. Haven't measured i.d. at muzzles but am guessing F&F. Musta been a duck/goose gun, sucker's heavy. Too bad, I mighta taken it off his hands if it'd been lighter & IC&M, just for the halibut.

edit: left bbl - .697" right bbl. - 695" Guess this gun is a genuine LC Smith after further investigation. The book I have says a 10% is $695. Think I'll tell this guy to take it to an expert for evaluation. Can anyone tell me an approx manufacture date by the ser. # in my first post?
 

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That's a 1923 Smith, choked full and full. Support the barrels (muzzle) against a wall or something firm, roll the button forward, while lifting up with the other hand. That type of release can be pretty stuborn, especially if it hasn't been used in a while.. Be sure the hammers are cocked before removing the forend..Bushrod
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, Bushrod, knew you'd come through.
 

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Spud, got a 24 and love it, it is M F did a good job on dove the last two weeks. Thinking about asking Mike Orlen if he would open mine to IC -M. I hope alot of action won't damage it . If Mike reads this maybe he will advise.
 
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