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I setup my MEC 600Jr. MkV and have turned out some good shooting .410 ammo. Instructions with the press are vague, at best, and I ended up on YouTube trying to figure out where this washer is supposed to go. When testing the various powder bushings, I was undecided as to whether I needed the brass spring washer in the powder bottle attachment slot. After trying both with and without the brass washer, I ended up using just the rubber grommet and all seemed to work fine.

Q is, what is the purpose of this brash washer, and should I be using it? If I do use it, is it oriented properly in this photo (i.e. dimples up)?

Wood Cabinetry Camera lens Cameras & optics Reflex camera
 

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Q is, what is the purpose of this brash washer, and should I be using it? If I do use it, is it oriented properly in this photo (i.e. dimples up)?
MEC is very weak explaining the washer in the 600 Jr manual. There's only this description in the troubleshooting section:

Install per instructions page 7 (Fig.7). Make sure the wash
is placed with the smooth side down under the grommet


However, if you go to page 7 as instructed, there's no mention of the washer!

MEC is much better in the 9000 manual:

Font Art Brand Number


Font Auto part Circle Line art Diagram


This should give you a good visual description, much better than anything in the 600 Jr manual. Good luck!
 

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FYI - I was looking for a baffle as well. A while back I sent a couple of e-mails to Downrange manufacturing requesting information about the baffle availability and never received a reply. I also tried the phone number on their website and never got anyone to answer.
 

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I just set up a MEC Junior to load 3 inch .410 loads, a religious experience in getting this right. I have an old 1 pound can of 2400 powder, I am using the brass washer, nipples up, all is fine, no leakage. I have the PC red plastic powder baffle on several other loaders, they work great. Wish they were still made!
 

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The MEC brass washer does not seem to work in my experience. If I use either WST or RS Comp. I get powder bar dribble with the washing properly installed. Maybe I get less dribble but the dribble is not eliminated. Wasting powder is one issue but bigger deal is the powder dribbles right over the stage 1 collet which is already problematic. The powder dribble accelerates the collet. popping issue.

I forget if it was here or on TS but one of us proposed using thicker copper washers instead of the MEC washer combo. I don't recall if I ever saw any feedback if that idea actually worked. The idea was to use a pair of 1.5mm thick, soft copper washers in place of the rubber washer and grass, dimpled washer. I bought the washers last year but have been happily loading Clays which doesn't dribble. When I go back to the finer powders, I will try the copper washers but no idea when that will be. I bought mine on McMaster but the OP bought his on Amazon.
 

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I didn't have a problem with powder dribble loading Clays, but now I'm loading TiteWad and it's become an issue. Not a real big deal really, just frustrating. I replaced the brass washer but it didn't seem to make much difference so I might give the copper washers a try. Powder dribble aside...Titewad probably gives the most consistent drops of any powder I've ever loaded...at least on my old loader.
 

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. I replaced the brass washer but it didn't seem to make much difference
That's because the brass washer and rubber grommet only help stop powder leakage from the top side of the bar.
It could be coming from the bottom. A powder bushing that is shorter in length then the bar is tall will leak.
The measure assemble is a stamped part, which means the corners have a radius. So, if the square lower front edge of the charge bar is riding on that radius the charge bar is riding in the measure assemble at an angle. It has to ride flat or its another place for a leak at the bottom. Take the bar out and run a large file across that corner, don't worry you can't go too much. Newer bars are already done, or should be. Clamp the large file to your work bench and run the bottom of the bar on the file, make sure its flat.
Steve
 

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Take the bar out and run a large file across that corner, don't worry you can't go too much. Newer bars are already done, or should be. Clamp the large file to your work bench and run the bottom of the bar on the file, make sure its flat.
Steve
Are you saying to put a radius (or relief) on the front, lower edge? No need to do the back edge? Are you also saying to true the bottom? Just want to get exactly what you are suggesting.
 

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Are you saying to put a radius (or relief) on the front, lower edge? No need to do the back edge? Are you also saying to true the bottom? Just want to get exactly what you are suggesting.
Yes to:Radius or simple bevel on the front edge and true the bottom. Nothing is needed on the back corner which can be seen by simple observation of the measure assembly.
 

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Per earlier posts above, if you have a baffle in place, does it mean the brass and rubber grommet are not needed? Would this 3 part combination help, or maybe causing several grains to appear on top of charge bar and also float to the base of Mec reloader? Or is that more of a need a new dog bone rubber insert ? Using 20/28 powder.
 

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