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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I received my new Spolar reloaded a few weeks ago and have just now got my new reloading bench build and setup last week. It was hard having a new reloaded setting in a box for 3 weeks and not be able to use my new machine. I wanted to move my reloading from my garage to my bonus room. As hot as it has been here in Alabama, I wanted to work in the A/C. I finally got the reloading benches build and moved to the bonus rood. I still have shelves and storage cabinets to build, but it's usable.
From someone going from a MEC to a Spolar, it's been a bit of a transition. MEC's are great machines, but the Spolar is a work of art. As an engineer, I can say the machine is very well engineered and the machining of the parts is outstanding. It took me a little time to get use to how the Spolar operates, as it is completely different from the MEC's I have used. I'm finally getting the hang of reloading on this machine. I've load both 20 and 28ga so far. I want to get a little more time on the machine before I take on 410. All in all, I'm very pleased with my need toy.

Below is a picture (I hope) of my reloading setup

cpg1410/displayimage.php?album=random&cat=14970&pos=-20915
 

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It looks like you already have a can of Hornady one shot dry lube in the photo,if not,this is the stuff you want to use on the primer tract and primer feed assembly and then blow it dry,or let stand to dry,
if no compressor?Enjoy your unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've used Hornady One Shot for several years on my metallic reloading. I do use One-Shot on the primer track, but I don't like it on the primer tray. What I found that works better is an old woodworker trick, Johnson paste floor wax. I've used Johnson paste wax on my woodworking machines for over 25years. I applied a coat of wax on the primer tray, let it dry for 10 to 20 minutes, and them buff it clean. The primer slide like they are on ice. By the way, this works on MEC primer trays also.
 

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I use a product called top-cote on primer slides and trays. It's a spray wax used primarily on table saw surfaces where you want the wood to slide freely but you don't want any residue transferring to the wood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Johnson paste wax is the ticket. Are you are applying it to the primer track or just the machined aluminum primer tray? If you are applying to the track, how?

John H, I've used Top-Cote on my tablesaw top years ago, but it cost a lot more than the Johnson wax. I may have to get some to try on the primer track.
 

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John, I just use powdered graphite on my tray and track and it works fine. Does your primer tray top remove? If memory serves me, that is one of the upgrades they did. My spolar is in the 300 range and I placed mine too close to the wall and I can't fill the tray.

Wonderful machines.
 

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I used to use graphite on my door locks but got tired of the mess and on and off reapplication,of it,I installed a new door lock a couple of years ago and coated all the moving parts with Hornady one shot
and it has worked great,I now reapply yearly.I also have a flatbed trailer that the hitch was very hard to operate,I coated the hitch with Hornady one shot and after doing that,you could lift the locking
lever with your little finger and I now use that on it also.I used to use spray wax on the primer tray,but the paste wax seems better for longer life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, my primer tray top is removable. It has a pin that act as the hinge. I hadn't thought of using powdered graphite. The biggest problem I have with the primer system is once you get down to the point were the primer track is only half full, the primers don't want to feed. I know the system works on having the weight of the primer pushing the primers down the track. but, with the last few primer in the track, the track in that area is nearly horizontal. I found I can use a small artist brush to reach in an move the primers down the track, but I'm hoping someone has a better idea.
 

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I assume you have the vibrator in operation,when you have this half full problem?It sounds like you don't have enough space,between the primer tract and where it meets up and bolts to the primer
shelf?What I use is a medium cable tie[zip tie] about 1/8" wide and use it as a feeler gauge.I loosen the primer tract and insert the zip tie between the angled opening between the primer tract and where it meets the primer tract housing,you should be able to insert the zip tie almost into the opening,but not letting it go through,then lock down your primer tract bolts.I have used this and it has always worked for me,also I have told this to other Spolar owners and it has for them too.
 

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Yeap...need the hydro unit. I have found f I keep the primer tray relatively full I have no issues......its damn easy to screw around and forget too.

Going to try that JW deal though. I never had need for the Hornday one shot but will try it as well. I have been using a dupont product. teflon silicone. Dries fairly quickly.
 

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Kyskeet mentioned about the tract to the primer tray being half full,this happens when the primers fail to drop into the primer tract,from the primer tray,this is what I was talking about when I posted
my fix for the problem,if a primer gets to the drop zone approaching the tract,with the vibrator working,they should drop without failure, but occasionally you may get one that hangs up into the drop zone,this is where the light in the primer tract[if so equipped] helps.Any of the primer's can
have little burrs on them which will cause this no drop condition,also.
 

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It sounds like the OP is trying to run the machine empty of primers and the primer flow is stopping when the track is half full (which is normal). I don't think they are expected to flow down the track after you don't have the weight of the primers in the vertical portion of the track pushing.if I want the primer track empty I either help the last primer by pushing them toward the feeder or use a magnet on a stick to pull them back up to the tray ( I have only emptied the track a couple of times in all of my reloading)
 

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After rereading the o p's statement Kyskeet,it could be what he is trying to convey?,when you get the primer tray about empty simply keep refilling it,or you can get a primer not feeding or worse,you can get a primer to try and half feed between the primer tract and the female primer arm,which can cause a live primer to get stuck diagonally,in the female primer arm and jam the machine.This will cause you to dismantle the female primer arm and tract to clear the jam.I have had this condition,maybe 2-3 times in my loading venture's over 17 years on Spolar's so it is a rare occurance.
I found a small burr on my female primer arm,so I deburred the arm and everything is now well.I had another shooter that I had helped clear his loader,with the same condition,also.
 

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I have # 405 that I bought new in 2000/2001(?). I have never applied anything to either the tray or the slide and I have never had a problem with primers not feeding to the point the tray is empty and the slide is down to about 1/3 full at which point the primers fail to feed into the transfer bar that moves them to the cup for insertion. There were some feed problems with the transition from the tray to the slide in the very beginning, but after several minor tweaks of the slide to tray connection position, it has worked flawlessly for over 15 years now. With one exception - when the tray is full, the weight of the primers will cause the primers to jam in the narrow channel where it makes a left turn (looking down on it) to the slide. I clear this by sticking a small screwdriver up that channel through the slide and move the primer mass back up the tray. This clears that jam and takes maybe 5 seconds. It's been that way since day one and happens about 3 to 4 times every time the tray is completely filled. Usually not a problem unless the tray has 250 or more primers in the tray.

I've talked in person with Carter Spolar many times over the years and he has never once mentioned lubing the primer tray or slide and it wasn't mentioned in the original instructions that came with my machine. Is this now mentioned in the instructions? Maybe I should try the One Shot to see if it eliminates the jam at the corner in the narrow tray channel.
 
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