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Do they exist? If so do they work? It would seem for shooting at flying things a horizontal oval pattern might be desirable. If you had a barrel that was as tight as a full choke top and bottom and as wide as an open cylinder bore side to side, could it be achieved? With the right tools a full choke barrel could be honed out in such fassion. But would it work?

ES
 

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Interesting idea but waddya do when the bird is going up, or coming directly at you or directly away?

Geez, I'd love an oval pattern for those pesky long crossing shots but it seems to me that a round pattern is the best compromise
 

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Sure it would work, and I considered doing it years ago. It wouldn't be hard to do at all. And if you should have a gun that already does throw a non round pattern, it is easy to correct.

But do you consistently miss behind or in front, instead of over or under? I don't think that is the case in a large majority of shots, so as Frank says, round for the compromise.

Clyde
 

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the only problem I see with that is you never know from one bbl to the next where the threads start. you may end up with a pattern that is verticle or anywhere in between.
 

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You are exactly right Fronty! I was talking mostly solid chokes, but it will also work with screw ins. And common sense should tell one that once something like that is done to a screw in choke, it MUST be dedicated to that gun and particular barrel.

Kept that way, it will work just as good as on the solid chokes.

Some gunsmiths do or will do exactly that to a choke that needs to be realigned for pattern, because of incorrect original installation. Others will not, but cut or ream the barrel for custom chokes to cure the problem. Difference in price, is the extra worth it for that particular gun? Only the owner knows.

Clyde
 

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I wonder if I can get somebody to bore my gun so that it throws more shot up, down, left, and right because they sure ain't breakin' where I'm pointin'! :twisted: :twisted:
 

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I used to grind chokes on my pedersoli 10 gauge black powder shotgun to get the barrels to shoot within a repectable alignment.. After grinding many chokes for the 10 ga, The only way i found to move a pattern succesfully with prevously manufactured choke, was to take ex full choke and grind it into an eggshape.. the pointy part of the egg would be where i wanted the pattern to go.. It dont take much in some cases.. But its steel and its alot of work.. I slotted a dowel, put coarse emery paper in the slot, and that chucked into a drill press, modified the choke and then polished with finer paper.. .. It opens up the pattern some but moves it in the direction you want it to go.. Lots of measuring and good records if you want to actually get somewhere.... Patterns were always round doing this and the other types of grinds.. If you want to screw it up make the end of the choke larger than a point previous to it.. that is the choke must either be level, or decreasing in diameter as it exits the bore or you can get blowby.. Im not talking about a jugchoke, im talking about a choke which is in the last 1 1/2 inches (or less of the barrel).. When you have reached level with the bore you have moved it as far as the choke will alow.. Of course there are reciprocities.. Briley will do it, and they must start with the fullest choke possible, and i feel you still need to have choke left.. That is you will have alot of problems moveing an improved cylinder to cylinder.. xfull to modified can be doable for a 5-8 inch move... I dont know how briely grinds thier chokes, maybe drills them at an angle or what, they dont talk about it, its thier bread and butter.. You should notch the choke end to index it so your in the right position.. dave..
 

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ffffg said:
If you want to screw it up make the end of the choke larger than a point previous to it.. that is the choke must either be level, or decreasing in diameter as it exits the bore or you can get blowby.. Im not talking about a jugchoke, im talking about a choke which is in the last 1 1/2 inches (or less of the barrel).. When you have reached level with the bore you have moved it as far as the choke will alow..
And what do you think Beretta and the other European manufacturers are doing with their "Reverse" chokes? Their "skeet" chokes are made in just this manner! Over bore. Tapered outwards from cylinder bore. Like a Blunderbuss, on a smaller scale!

Blow by? More blow by than when it simply exits the end of the barrel? Or when the charge "takes a jump" in a Cutts Compensator, or other such chokes. What about "blow by" in a jugchoke? The Russian Tula chokes, a glorified and enlarged jugchoke, were designed to work with fiber wads, and let plenty of "blow by", fly by! :roll:

In my opinion, reverse chokes do nothing more, (or less), than it would, IF one cut the barrel completely off at the point of cylinder bore!

Jugs, Cutts, etc. and actually standard screw in chokes bring the shot charge back in a little bit, after it expands in the jug, open area or the larger than normal bore diameter at the very mouth of every screw in choke, except for special custom fitted to individual bores chokes!

Clyde
 

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I seem to recall hearing somewhere (probably on here) that Ithaca made a run of M37s with oval shaped "duck-bill" chokes designed to shoot a wide horizontal pattern for jungle clearing in Vietnam. Supposedly they patterned horribly and were soon discontinued.
 

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Back in the long ago late '50's Armalite made such chokes for an, I think, all aluminum shotgun of their manufacture. These were screw on - as opposed to screw in - chokes. They could be had in two aspect ratios: 2:1 and 4:1. According to the article and pictures I read, they worked well. I remember a pattern shot with two loads fired with the shotgun right side up and then sideways. The result was an "X" on the pattern sheet.
 
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