From a post of mine in December 2019

Pretty sure that on the Browning Citori factory Grade 1 stocks, they used a high gloss urethane type finish. I don't think Browning used a rubbed oil finish in the Citori line until you got to Grade 3 and higher grade wood.

Yes, some guys use a furniture polish over the high gloss urethane finish. Some use a car wax or similar. I prefer the Renaissance brand wax.

On a hand rubbed oil finish most guys would use a tung oil or boiled linseed oil mix or a Tru oil finish.

You might want to check out the Gunsmithing forum for stock restoration discussions.

And yes, the Renaissance brand wax can be used on the wood furniture and the metal whether blued or not. [There is a Larry Potterfield video on Midway USA of him applying it to wood and to blued metal] I am not sure how well it would work on an oiled finish.

 

the Renaissance brand wax can be used on the wood furniture and the metal whether blued or not.

Another vote

 

+2 on the Renaissance wax.

 

While RW is an excellent product, IMO you are wasting it on a Browning poly finish, which is one of - if not THE - toughest finishes around. Save the RW for oiled stock finishes

 

I have a 725 HR adj,32"O/U shotgun and emailed Browning as to ask them what kind of finish the stock had so I would know what was the best way to maintain it as they state in owners manual.
I also included my serial # and they responded to me that it was " Your gun has a Gloss oil Finish."
So Im planning to steel wool#0000 and Teak Oil it down as I saw on one of the forums and then after 10 or so days, after Teak treatment use the paste wax steel and wood

 

From the response it sounds like there is mixed feelings about putting paste wax over oil. Some indicate tgey wouldnt, while others say they do it?

Anybody want to share their thinking on the two perspectives?

 

While RW is an excellent product, IMO you are wasting it on a Browning poly finish, which is one of - if not THE - toughest finishes around. Save the RW for oiled stock finishes

Eh.....I don't know about that 1oz. If that were the case, there'd be no need to ever wax that showroom lacquer shine on your nice new Corvette. Even high gloss poly/lacquer finishes would benefit from a coat of RW or similar. An occasional coat will not only protect from sweat and other oxidants, it'll bring out the luster and shine, to keep that finish looking real purrrrrdy....lol. I actually use a spritz or two of any automotive Quick Detailer on a cloth between waxings (every coupla months or so)................................

 

WOWSERS My friend {hs#

 

Damn Cheecho , beautiful ! You gonna throw a coat of something on that deck too ? :lol:

 

I have refinished a number of stocks. Inspired initially by Midway's video by Larry Potterfield, I wax them periodically with Renaissance wax. Each were refinished with rubbed in oil, BLO, Pure Tung Oil, Pilkington's, and Permalyn. 4 weeks after the last application of finish, I applied Renaissance to each one, and thereafter, at least once per year. I never had any problems.

I'm just finishing my 3d stock with pure tung oil. 4 weeks after the last application, I will apply Renaissance for shine and protection.

I've read a lot about this subject. This is the first time I've read that Wax does not work well with rubbed in oils. My experience is to the contrary.

 

Wax is fine with any oil finish I've used on furniture. The oil will catalyze and be non reactive when cured. What I've been told anyway.

 

Damn Cheecho , beautiful ! You gonna throw a coat of something on that deck too ? :lol:

It was either the stock or a new deck, so yea cap, I suppose the deck could use a coat of Thompson's.....

 

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the feedback. How is the renaissance wax different from other furniture wax, like Johnsons paste wax???

 

Ease of use I think. I use this: Goddard Cabinet Wax.

I think the key is to use something that has wax in it, many do not. Either bees wax or another I can think of right now. I spray it on a cloth and wipe it on.

 

RW has the advantage of being specially formulated so it does not crack, yellow or cause issues with any metals, wood, ivory, leather, etc. I have used it and still do sometimes. It is a good product.

However for wood, I use Paste Finishing Wax by Minwax. I have used it on metal also but now I use it mostly just for the wood. It was designed for and does an excellent job of protecting the wood and imparting a low luster. The primary reason I use it more now than Renaissance Wax, is that it has very little odor. RW has a pretty noticeable odor and if using it in my house; it is not welcome.

 

Be careful with some paste waxes around the checkering.

Cheecho, How are you my friend? This morning they canceled the Lobster Open at Peconic fir June!

Bob

 

Be careful with some paste waxes around the checkering.

Cheecho, How are you my friend? This morning they canceled the Lobster Open at Peconic fir June!

Bob

Yes of course, but I thought that was why we repurposed old, used tooth brushes.

 

While RW is an excellent product, IMO you are wasting it on a Browning poly finish, which is one of - if not THE - toughest finishes around. Save the RW for oiled stock finishes

Eh.....I don't know about that 1oz. If that were the case, there'd be no need to ever wax that showroom lacquer shine on your nice new Corvette. Even high gloss poly/lacquer finishes would benefit from a coat of RW or similar. An occasional coat will not only protect from sweat and other oxidants, it'll bring out the luster and shine, to keep that finish looking real purrrrrdy....lol. I actually use a spritz or two of any automotive Quick Detailer on a cloth between waxings (every coupla months or so)................................

I do not believe Browning uses a lacquer. When I had a good gunsmith repair and refinish a stock on an Ultra XS, he mentioned he had to buy a special stripping agent because of how hard and durable Browning's finish is (NOT talking about oil finishes) and because the stuff he used on every other make couldn't do the job - so that is why I said what I did

 

I am pretty sure Browning's current finish is epoxy based. Oneounceload is right. It is really tough to strip off!!! :shock:

 

While RW is an excellent product, IMO you are wasting it on a Browning poly finish, which is one of - if not THE - toughest finishes around. Save the RW for oiled stock finishes

Agreed.
Polyurethane Gloss is massively tough, I was painting it over silver landing gear on aircraft Wed. night (which I do regularly).
200mph doesn't chip it, unless of course you run into a rock or something (bird, nope).

I hope the folks who like using car wax realize that they are rubbing an abrasive on their bluing...........................

I don't wax guns, ever, any parts, anywhere, anytime.
Metal gets wiped with Break Free CLP.
Oiled wood gets oiled (BLO) when I do anything to it.
Polyurethane gets wiped dirt off.

 

:arrow: Hopper.....How goes it bud. Hope the knee's coming along, and you're out shooting that beautiful DT 11 Black..... 8)

:arrow: Rob K....It's been too long pal ! Let's get Joe (Seacillian) and meet up for some skeet when this mess subsides. I've been working on my (skeet) game, so hopefully you guys won't blow me away like the last time... :lol:

:arrow: 1oz......I'm the original owner of this 99 Ultra XS (perhaps my favorite gun). I believe it came with an oil finish, although it may be a satin finished poly coat ? Either way, I use either Howard's Feed N Wax or similar on this gun, and a few others that have an oil finish. Btw... I agree the Browning poly/lacquer finish is practically impervious , I just prefer wiping it down on occasion with wax, as opposed to a dry cloth. WTH....I'm going through the motion anyways..............................

 

You gonna throw a coat of something on that deck too ? :lol:

What a hardass!

 

No offense meant , it's actually the perfect background for a gorgeous set of wood !

 

It just made me laugh.

Not offensive but funny as hell due to the contrast with that high gloss stock.

 

Recently had a gun stock refinished with an oil finish and the guy recommended waxing on occasion with "Briwax Sheradale Clear Antique Wax Polish". Have not tried it yet, but plan to in the future. This particular gentleman specializes in refinishing oil finishes.