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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read numorus posts on this but do to co-19 can't seem to get the parts. Have a mec 9000 with metal baffle bar and bushings .Powder is coming out of bar on every stroke of handle? Have brass washers and rubber grommet installed. I have read good things about the plastic baffles but can't find one to buy. Any help or quick fixes out there? Should I just get rid of metal bafflel ?
 

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I have 9000g, at times I have small flakes ride on top. I have never used a baffle, but always the brass washer and rubber grommet. The brass washer does wear out, usually a new one cures the issue. I use 110 and clays powder. What kind of powder are you using???
 

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First I would agree with you on getting rid of the metal baffle. The red PC baffle is no longer in production, sometimes you can find them on EBay, but you better be sitting down when you check the price.
Where is your machine leaking powder? Sometimes I have found them to be leaking from the bottom of the bar and a baffle won't help there. For this issue make sure your bushing is as long as your bar, I have seen bushings that are too short and create a gap on the bottom side of the bar. I have also found/seen bars that can not travel perfectly flat in the measure assembly. The edge of the bar was riding on the corner radius of the measure assembly. Radius that edge of the bar. And lastly, using a large flat file make sure the bottom of your bar is flat. Secure the file to a bench and move the bar across it until flat.

Steve
 
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The metal powder baffle is designed to work with the thick brass washer they include (no rubber grommet required).

Ive never found a benefit to using any style baffle and Usually just stay with Mecs rubber grommet. If I’m running fine ball powder like Winchester 296, I’ll add the Mec brass washer.
 

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I have read numorus posts on this but do to co-19 can't seem to get the parts. Have a mec 9000 with metal baffle bar and bushings .Powder is coming out of bar on every stroke of handle? Have brass washers and rubber grommet installed. I have read good things about the plastic baffles but can't find one to buy. Any help or quick fixes out there? Should I just get rid of metal bafflel ?
Is the powder leaking out from the top of the bar or underneath? If it's leaking from underneath then the brass washer, grommet, and whether or not you have a metallic or plastic baffle, or don't use one at all, are all irrelevant. They only help with leakage on top of the bar.

Also, using a properly functioning baffle should not create leakage on top of the bar. It sits the same as a bottle on top of the rubber grommet. As long as it is screwed down tight it will supply sufficient pressure to prevent leakage. This is only true if the washer and grommet are in good condition, and the spring loaded baffle seal is working correctly. A weak spring can cause insufficient sealing pressure. You also need to be sure you are using the washer that comes with the metal baffle. The MEC washer is too thin to get a good seal from the baffle.

I've been using the metallic baffles for almost 20 years and have yet to experience powder leakage when loading 12, 20, or 28 gauge hulls.

Finally, I need to ask what powder are you using? If you're loading 410 hulls and using 296, H110, or 300MP, you will always have a little leakage. The grains of powder are so small that a few somehow manage to find their way out every time the press is cycled. The gap between the bottom of the bar and the measure it rides through is often larger than the small grains of powder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
First I would agree with you on getting rid of the metal baffle. The red PC baffle is no longer in production, sometimes you can find them on EBay, but you better be sitting down when you check the price.
Where is your machine leaking powder? Sometimes I have found them to be leaking from the bottom of the bar and a baffle won't help there. For this issue make sure your bushing is as long as your bar, I have seen bushings that are too short and create a gap on the bottom side of the bar. I have also found/seen bars that can not travel perfectly flat in the measure assembly. The edge of the bar was riding on the corner radius of the measure assembly. Radius that edge of the bar. And lastly, using a large flat file make sure the bottom of your bar is flat. Secure the file to a bench and move the bar across it until flat.

Steve
Leaking from top of bar and spilling on primer tube then of course down in collet
 

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Leaking from top of bar and spilling on primer tube then of course down in collet
OK, make sure your powder bushing is flush to the top of the bar. Use the MEC brass washer, make sure you install it correctly and the MEC rubber grommet and see what happens.
Steve
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK, make sure your powder bushing is flush to the top of the bar. Use the MEC brass washer, make sure you install it correctly and the MEC rubber grommet and see what happens.
Steve
How do I check for flush and what is the cure ? I do have washers and grommets. Maybe toss the baffle and start with new washers after checking for flush?
 

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Hate to say it but learn to live with it. You are not going to stop Titewad from leaking a little without the springy red powder baffle.
 
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Last time I checked Ebay there were some red baffles for sale.....not the old originals but some new design. They looked a little different but should work for you. Price wasn't as steep as the old ones were selling for.
 

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Years ago I loaded my normal target load (Titewad) with shot intended for hunting. Some of those shells rode around in my pocket for too long and I started getting horrible bloopers on rising birds. While cutting the shells apart, a large percentage of the powder was in the crush section of the wad. It was notable as those were not ill fitting wads.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Last time I checked Ebay there were some red baffles for sale.....not the old originals but some new design. They looked a little different but should work for you. Price wasn't as steep as the old ones were selling for.
I just checked and there is one on there for $25 plus $7 bucks to ship. Worst part is it may not get here until sometime in January
 

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How do I check for flush and what is the cure ?
Remove the charge bar from the press, leave the bushing in the hole and run a straight edge across the top face. If you can see daylight between the bushing and bar test with another bushing or two. If you can see daylight on all 3 after this test I would guess your bar is defective. The counter bore for the bushing shoulder is too deep. If you only see daylight on the first bushing your bushing is bad. The shoulder is too thin allowing it to sit too far down in the bar.

Steve
 
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I have used three powders so far: WST, WSH, and RS Comp. WST and RS Comp both leak a little. The WSH doesn't leak much. I am just living with it. I blow the press clean with dust-off periodically. Eventually the powder mucks up the stage 1 collet so that needs the partial disassembly and cleaning mentioned in the manual. Checking the counter bore depth sounds like a good idea. I don't use the primer dropper so I use the its mounting location to attach a small piece of wood to minimize the powder that drops down onto Stage 1. Sometimes I put a small paper cup on that piece of wood to catch the powder leaking out the end of the bar.
 
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