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I have used three powders so far: WST, WSH, and RS Comp. WST and RS Comp both leak a little. The WSH doesn't leak much. I am just living with it. I blow the press clean with dust-off periodically. Eventually the powder mucks up the stage 1 collet so that needs the partial disassembly and cleaning mentioned in the manual. Checking the counter bore depth sounds like a good idea. I don't use the primer dropper so I use the its mounting location to attach a small piece of wood to minimize the powder that drops down onto Stage 1. Sometimes I put a small paper cup on that piece of wood to catch the powder leaking out the end of the bar.
Wow, I feel bad that you have to go through all that extra work when reloading!

If you're using a MEC progressive loader you should consider having it gone over by MEC.

It should not leak to the extent that modifications are necessary to load ball powder.

The only time I've removed a collet in the past 35 years is to replace when broken. Never to clean. This is never necessary for a properly running loader.

Also, if you upgrade to the large capacity primer tray you will eliminate all the downside to using the older trays. When installed and adjusted correctly, it's a joy to use!

Maybe your loader needs a little TLC to get it back to it's original running condition.
 

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Last time I checked Ebay there were some red baffles for sale.....not the old originals but some new design. They looked a little different but should work for you. Price wasn't as steep as the old ones were selling for.
If you run across these again please post the link, I would like to see them.
Steve
 

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It should not leak to the extent that modifications are necessary to load ball powder.
The problem with most ball powders is its smaller then the tolerances machines are built to.
As an example, to get one part to slide inside of another you need between .003" - .004" clearance.
Both parts are built with a certain tolerance themselves, lets say 1" +/- .003". Now you get one part that is 1.0025, its a good part. The other mating part is .998" that too is a good part, but the two parts have .0045" clearance, too much and things leak. Now toss in a third part (bushing).

Steve
 

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If you're using a MEC progressive loader you should consider having it gone over by MEC.
I am very hesitant to pack it up and ship it back. Probably get damaged in shipping

It should not leak to the extent that modifications are necessary to load ball powder.
seems leaking is pretty common with powders like WST. It is not just me.

The only time I've removed a collet in the past 35 years is to replace when broken. Never to clean. This is never necessary for a properly running loader.
I have not had to actually remove the collet. I follow the partial disassembly procedure in the manual. Basically removing the chain link which allows the closer to drop. This gives enough access to clean and re-lube.

Also, if you upgrade to the large capacity primer tray you will eliminate all the downside to using the older trays. When installed and adjusted correctly, it's a joy to use!
My press was new about 6 months ago. It came with the large capacity tray. I have had a lot of problems with it. It's really OT for this thread but I have worked with MEC on the phone, read all of the posts here and on TS.com, and spent many hours dorking with it. I can get it adjusted but it doesn't stay adjusted for very long and some primers types just tend to get stuck. I just decided it wasn't worth the bother. From an engineering design perspective, the mounting scheme with one bolt in a loose slot is just a very poor mounting scheme and that is just one of several problems. The time to recover from just one single crash negates any advantage it might have had otherwise.

I am really OK with my 9000. I looked into other presses including even Spolar. I talked to a friend that has a Spolar. Thought about a PW or a Dillon. They all have issues and idiosyncrasies.

I am more interested in finding a powder that covers all my Trap needs but doesn't leak. I thought WSH might have been the one but its too high density for most straight hulls and I have a lot of new primed hulls from BPI. It could be a "does it all" powder if I focused on my Remington hulls. I have lots of RS Comp and WST which are lower density and do a better job of covering the base wad lip in the Cheddite and Fiocchi hulls. So I just live with the leakage. I have some 700X and some Tite Wad but have not used them yet. So not sure how they would compare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Remove the charge bar from the press, leave the bushing in the hole and run a straight edge across the top face. If you can see daylight between the bushing and bar test with another bushing or two. If you can see daylight on all 3 after this test I would guess your bar is defective. The counter bore for the bushing shoulder is too deep. If you only see daylight on the first bushing your bushing is bad. The shoulder is too thin allowing it to sit too far down in the bar.

Steve
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Think I may have fixed the problem, Took bar out and did what you told me with straight edge and file, I then squeezed the channel the bar rides in by several thousand then added new washers ,metal baffle. Ran 5 boxes with not a flake of TITWAD coming out. Happy camper here. Thanks and have a great Turkeyday
 

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Here you go...
This is very interesting considering it is coming out of Russia. I say that because as of the last conversation I had with Down Range Wads about 4 years ago at the Cardinal Center he had the old PC Baffle tool and was going to fix/modify it to run in a different type injection molder.

Steve
 

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Rectangle Font Magenta Circle Paper product

Shipping it back to MEC will not guaranty a leak free press when you get it back. They dont have the time to play with matching up the critical components to get the tolerances close enough so it does not leak but still works. Sorry to say but that nickel is on us. I could not even begin to estimate the amount of time and $$ I invested in my 410 9000 to stop it from leaking Win296.
Steve
 

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I load 110/296 in 410:::::Titewad in 12 ga. Both are fine powders. All I use is the rubber grommet, and brass washer, no baffle, and I don't get leaks that poses a problem. A new washer once in awhile helps. Both are 9000g.
Bar height, powder bushing height has an effect.
 

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I have leakage with WST but no other powders I’ve tried. I usually leave my powder bottle a little loose for more consistent drops.
I’ve replaced my brass washer and the grommet and tightened the bottle down too. But it still leaks and makes a mess after a hundred rounds. Thanks for the idea Steve I’ll take a straight edge to my bar and bushing.

On the other hand I loaded with 700X for the first time and couldn’t be happier. Wish I tried it a long time ago.
 

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I could never get my 650 from leaking 296/110 no matter what I tried, different bars, red baffles, metal baffles, combo's with baffles and washers etc, etc. Finally I gave up and went to a different powder, I realize that it was just a problem of wasting powder, not causing a malfunction. But for me though that's a problem. Waste not want not.
JW
 

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There's a plan for a 3d printed version of a Red powder baffle that was posted up here a while ago, Google Thingiverse 4698014. If you or someone you know has access to a 3D printer, you can make your own.
 

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With 110/296 don't have much choice of other powders for 410. My sizemaster leaked, and decided to shoot 410 more and bought a almost new 9000h 410. I had to make about 8 adjustments to make it work. Luck I suppose that my bar works without leaking. If it starts to, I change the washer..
With 12ga lot more choices with powder. I only picked up a couple 14oz Titewad to try out if and when different powders come available. Wouldn't be my choice because it is fine powder. Red Dot, 700x, Extralite, to name a few have more bulk and easier to use. My favorite is clays, but who knows when becomes available. So we're kinda stuck of what is available in time to use. Knowing your different powders is a big help...
 

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Shipping it back to MEC will not guaranty a leak free press when you get it back. They dont have the time to play with matching up the critical components to get the tolerances close enough so it does not leak but still works. Sorry to say but that nickel is on us. I could not even begin to estimate the amount of time and $$ I invested in my 410 9000 to stop it from leaking Win296.
Steve
I agree that MEC is not going to fix a leaky press. I based my recommendation on his description of problems. It sounded like a half dozen other loaders I've worked on in the past. They were in bad condition from age or maintenance issues. For loaders I can't personally help recondition, I recommend sending to MEC. The alternative is to keep struggling with the issues.
 

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Has anyone tried switching out to a universal charge bar? Maybe a little different spec on the bar itself would change things. I just unboxed a brand new sizemaster .410 and haven't even set it up yet. I have a universal charge bar on my 28 ga sizemaster and could just switch it to the new machine. I have a brand new 8 pound H110 jug and 5k of cheddite primers (primers are inbound).
 
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