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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Well, I ordered my 391 and I pick it up next week after the waiting period (a 10 day torture-test here in California).

While I'm waiting, I've been reading through the owner's manual and I have a couple questions.

1) Do I need to clean anything besides the barrel before I shoot it for the first time? I know guns often come packed in grease for storage and you have to remove it before your first shoot. Doesn't mention that in the manual, though, so I'm hoping I can just clean the barrel and then take it out on the range.

2) What exactly is the "carrier stop push button" for? It mentions it numerous times in the manual, but only to say that it should be depressed before performing some procedure. Exactly what does it do, and what causes it to not be depressed in the first place?

3) I typically use Breakfree CLP for cleaning and Wilson Ultra for lube in my handgun. I use Tetra grease in my Mossberg pump. But should I just stick to Breakfree and Wilson in the Beretta? Anyone use grease in their 391?

4) I know my gun comes with five chokes, but I know there are seven MobilChokes: Skeet, Cylinder, IC, Modified, IM, Full, Xtra-Full. I bought the Base Field model (#1120). Anyone know which five I get with that?

thanks!
 
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The carrier stop button is located on the bottom of the receiver between the trigger guard and the carried loading port. You need to press this when ever you cycle the action without firing the gun in order for the bolt to lock itself open.
The chokes that I received with my 391 are
-Full
-Improved Mod.
-Mod
-Improved Cyl.
-Cyl.
 
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You could probably get by just cleaning the barrel before you shoot it for the first time, but I think I'd add a little Breakfree CLP to a few moving parts ... bolt rails, action bar, piston center post, etc. I would also advise you to shoot some fairly heavy loads (3 Dram, 1 1/8 ounce) for the first few boxes.

I can't think of any need to use grease on an automatic unless it would be inside the recoil spring tube and you are not likely to even need to do that for at least 10,000 rounds.

Enjoy your new gun.
 

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CLP is all that I use to clean and lube my 391, including the choke tubes.

Breakfree CLP...it may be a synthetic product, but the Holy Spirit must've inspired the fellow that invented the stuff.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, guys... I pick her up tomorrow and I'm really counting the minutes!
 

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The one place I use a little bit of grease is on the threads of the magazine extension tube which the end-cap screws onto. I found that when my gun sat for a few weeks or months in the winter time, the cap was harder to remove. I could just as easily store it less tight (and I've been told that there should be a little bit of play in there), but still a little grease on those threads works well for me.

For what it's worth, the sporting model comes with Skeet, IC, Mod, IM, and Full chokes.

Enjoy your new shotgun! :D
 

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Casual Shooter said:
The one place I use a little bit of grease is on the threads of the magazine extension tube which the end-cap screws onto.
This is a good idea unless the gun is stored disassembled in the factory case. A friend of mine who does not routinely break his gun down experienced problems unscrewing the cap. If the gun is stored in its hard case the use of grease should not be necessary.

Of course, you can grease those threads all the same.

Mike
 

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Anonymous said:
The carrier stop button is located on the bottom of the receiver between the trigger guard and the carried loading port. You need to press this when ever you cycle the action without firing the gun in order for the bolt to lock itself open.
The chokes that I received with my 391 are
-Full
-Improved Mod.
-Mod
-Improved Cyl.
-Cyl.
I have a couple of questions about the 391, that I've yet to find an answer to:
1. Can you shoot slugs without a special slug barrel?
2. If you can, which choke is recommended ?
3. If you can, which brand/style work best?
4. Of the 5 chokes supplied, which do you recommend for goose?
Obviously I'm a rookie, so any help is much appreciated.
 

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1. You can shoot slugs through the barrel you got with it.

2. The best choke is Improved Cylinder.

3. Try all kind of brands and see what works best. Use only rifled slugs though not sabots. Sabots were not made for smoothbores.

4. For geese if you probably should use modified because it is dangerous to shoot steel shot with any thing tighter than modified.

Good luck and safe shooting :) .
 

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Thanks for the tip. I've already had one ejection jam when dove hunting. I was using a Winchester load. I guess that is easier to deal with than what you describe,
 
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Congrats on your new purchase. As stated above, be sure to lube the threads of the fore-end cap. Another 391 owner told me to use the gold-colored anti seize on those threads and so far it has worked well. I used oil on them and it did not last very long, and the cap became stuck on the rod. Your results may vary.

FWIW - I have been told that this is a common problem with these guns and that the threads in the cap are aluminum, and the rod is steel. I was also told that the new 391 Tekneys has steel threads in the cap.

In spite of the problems, our gunsmith said that he would take it over a Browning when I asked him. So, have fun and keep your rod lubed.
 
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I'm a new Xtrema A 391 owner, too (wasn't sure if previous posts were specific to either Urika AL 391 or Xtrema). Like many, I bought the gun as the one gun to do all my needs: upland, turkey, and waterfowl. I didn't think I could shoot slugs in it when I bought it, but now Hastings is listing a rifled sabot shedding choke tube for it.

Opinions?
1. Anyone know pros/cons of slugs in overbored barrels like Beretta's Optima bore (Xtremas and newer Urikas)?
2. Anyone tried a Hastings or similar rifled choke in overbored barrel?
 
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