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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi From down under Auzzie Land, :D
Can any Remington gyru tell me the best place to go shopping in the good ol US for one of the Competition Synthetic 1100"s. Looks an awesome bit of kit straight off the shelf.
I want to get a buddie in either Minnesota or California to buy one for me then go through the process of buying it off them to export it out to down under. From on line looking Dick's looks Ok.
Big deal to even own one in our Land with super strict laws. It is also mile of paperwork and $$$ to get it out of US and into Auzz.

Anybody give me some clues where to send my buddie so I get a reasonable price as I will loose on 25% on exchange and my Government will be in for its import Tax cut as well.So Any saving is a good saving!!
 

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There are two on GunBroker now, close in price, maybe $0 difference in total including shipping. I would just get whoever is buying it for you to buy based on where they are and their FFL's terms, and then go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi There :D
Thanks for the starting tip on Gunbroker. I will investigate there to get me going.
In answer to is it legal yes. You have to be licensed specially for here in Auzz and have a permanent medical condition.

To get all that through you have to jump on one foot, grab a vine and swing across the ravine then swim an alligator infested river before you drown in a sea of paperwork.

Supposedly the tightest gun laws in the world is meant to stop the nutbags and wrong people but it doesn't really work. Criminals and Outlaws seem to end up with them anyway.

Are the 1100 comps as good a performer as they look?
We have only ever seen adverts and not one in the flesh yet. Since the buy back you really only see few older 1100 classics here and odd 1187. Most skeeters that use auto's go for the A400 Beretta.
However I reckon they lack the "feel"n balance and in my opinion boot harder. They also cost a small fortune.
 

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I bought one about 2 months ago. So far I am very pleased. I have owned several 1100 and 11 -87 . I like the synthetic adjustable stock. It permits the user to tweek it. I believe that the gun will allow me to improve my shooting. Good luck with your quest.
 

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I am relatively new to skeet and trap. About 6 months ago I purchased a new Remington 1100 Comp Synthetic. I also have another Remington 1100 Sport Model.

I purchased the new Comp on-line from Bud's Gunshop. It was the best price I could find and more importantly they had them in-stock.

I really like this gun and it fits me well especially with the adjustable Jack West Stock. I consider this gun to be a good value for the money. I have a bad shoulder so this gun serves me well in that regard and is a very soft shooter. Any felt recoil is almost negligible. I can shoot this all day long bad shoulder and all!

When I first took this gun to the range I fired some cheap WW Universals through it and had some trouble with extraction of the spent shell cases. My other 1100 would cycle these without issue. I then purchased several other different brands of ammo to test in this gun. These were Rio, Gun Club, Winchester AA and Federal Targets purchased at Walmart. All fired/cycled without any issues.

I read on-line here and elsewhere that many guns do not like the cheap WW Universals. Some will work but many do not and have issues. My other 1100 will shoot them without issue, but not my new 1100 Comp.

Some people think the 1100 Syn Comp is muzzle heavy with the 30" pro-bore heavy barrel. I actually like the weight and feel of this for my needs. Your mileage may vary.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the feedback so far. :D
I have seen adds for Buds and the prices certainly look attractive but have also read some not so good things on other forums to do with there as well which would make me a bit nervous. Hard to really judge from other side of world who is good and who is not. And who you can trust.
I did email Buds a while back to ask a few questions and nobody ever got back. They are an Export Agent as well which would have really helped and made things so much easier for me.
That makes you worry if your going to put your faith in somebody to do the right thing and follow through with specific paperwork, timeframes etc, especially when you dump a fist full of dollars in their hand first.

I like what has been said about the Jack West Stock. I have an 1187 sportsman at present that I want to set up for skeet as well and am thinking of buying one apart from the competition special as I too have an injury and want to keep the recoil at bay.
It is big deal to buy and gun and get it exported across but by the sound so far it would be well worth the effort.
I hope to run the gun on a standard diet of 1180,1200fps reloadloads with either 1oz or 7/8. so hopefully it will function ok and last me many years.
What I like also is the ability to keep the thing running self sufficient and do my own repairs, machining and maintenance as not many gunsmiths or people with know how here.
I see the "Virginian" seems to really know his stuff and offers useful advice "thanks" :D
 

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Auzzi, this is the guy that makes the 1100 comp stocks for Remington ( adds a "bump buster" to the Jack West stocks) this stock and a "probore" barrel makes your 11 87 the same as the 1100 comp (except for finishes and markings) Another way to beat the high costs. If you need the barrel number,one of us can look it up. http://bumpbuster.blogspot.com/2011/01/ ... k-set.html

Bobcat
 

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I have found Bud's to be fine to deal with, and they have a walk in establishment as well. But, like many they do not always respond to emails, especially at the general business email. Email is free and is abused and many places get hundreds a day. I know they do well by phone, but that's pricey to Australia.
An 11-87 is 99% 1100, and if you did get a target 11-87 barrel, or a new target 1100 barrel, it should do fine with those loads. (With an 1100 barrel you would likely need a shim in front of the barrel gas ring - a slice of PVC or CPVC pipe works well).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for good Ideas. Boy am I glad I joined and posted a forum topic.
I will take on board what you have said about Buds and ask the question again.

If somebody can give me that barrel number for one of the 30" Pro Bore target barrels that would be a bonus I can definitely and will look into. I thought till reading this that 1100 and 1187 barrel interchange was "not and option" and out the question but the pvc shim idea appears totally logical.

So am I right to assume the barrel tang that positions into the receiver itself is the same length 1100 and 1187?
Then what happens to cater for the thicker extractor on a 1187 bolt? do you have to change bolts and extractor setup to an 1100 or do the newer 1100's run the thicker extractor? Or what happens with the milled extractor slot in the target barrels?

I am guessing from what has been said that the 1100 barrel gas ring is soldered further towards chamber end than an 1187 and by putting a shim on the front effectively makes the length the same under the steel washer and forend wood and the end cap nips up as normal?
Other question excuse my ignorance on the above is does it make any difference that the target barrel has wider rib when it comes to matching up with an 1187 receiver?
Lot of questions hopefully somebody can explain what gives.
 

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Auzzie Shot said:
If somebody can give me that barrel number for one of the 30" Pro Bore target barrels that would be a bonus I can definitely and will look into. I thought till reading this that 1100 and 1187 barrel interchange was "not and option" and out the question but the pvc shim idea appears totally logical.
F249550 1100 BBL 12/30 PROBORE CHOKE VT COMPETITION (MOD CHOKE) MID BEAD $310.03

So am I right to assume the barrel tang that positions into the receiver itself is the same length 1100 and 1187? Yes, as long as you don't venture into 11-87 SuperMag territory.

Then what happens to cater for the thicker extractor on a 1187 bolt? do you have to change bolts and extractor setup to an 1100 or do the newer 1100's run the thicker extractor? Or what happens with the milled extractor slot in the target barrels?
Newer 1100s have same extractor. It's 10 minutes work with a file to open the notch on older 1100 barrels to fit.

I am guessing from what has been said that the 1100 barrel gas ring is soldered further towards chamber end than an 1187 and by putting a shim on the front effectively makes the length the same under the steel washer and forend wood and the end cap nips up as normal?
No, 11-87 gas ring is shaped differently and is longer overall towards the muzzle, thus the inside of 11-87 fore ends has more material removed. A shim allows 11-87 fore end to press barrel to receiver. The rear of the barrel gas ring is in the same place, and the action bar assembly is the same part number. Some - repeat some - fore ends fit fine with either barrel, but I would not count on it.

Other question excuse my ignorance on the above is does it make any difference that the target barrel has wider rib when it comes to matching up with an 1187 receiver?
Lot of questions hopefully somebody can explain what gives.
The rib will not match the grooved top of the receiver width wise exactly, but it does not look awkward, to me anyway.
 

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Auzzie,

Bobcat makes an excellent point. I am thinking of adding the Bump Stock to my other 1100 as well.

With respect to Buds! I have ordered many guns from Buds over the past several years and have always received great service at a great price. I have no connection to them only as a consumer and I have no reservation in recommending them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks everybody, :D
I am now armed with more useful info to make some reasonable decisions.
While I have peoples attention I will ask another round of probing questions.

1 Is the prospect of Timney sear conversion a worthwhile exercise? good or bad experiences! can only assume must be ok result or people wouldn't bother.
2 Thinking a complete trigger group as a drop in spare might not be a bad thing if I can get my hands on as nothing available here whatsoever. Do you buy genuine or do people do complete refurbishments, or rebuilds? Are some better than others. Are trigger groups mainly plastic now and where do you look?
3 I intend to run as a low volume target gun. What bits am I likely to need as spares and replacements down the track. I suspect extractors some springs possibly few other things . Any suggestions?
4 I am going to run "wet" rig. What do people find as the best lube. Temps get hot here 50 winter worst to average 100-105 summer. Gets sticky humid as well up to 85-90% summer. Thin oils like remoil tend to just cook off or evaporate off pretty quick. We don't have the huge range of teflon lube's here at fingertips. Remoil as example is $30 can so you don't waste it. Any suggestions or secret recipe's worth trying? I can only assume some will work much better than others and I would do clean at say 200rnds.
 

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Auzzie Shot said:
1 Is the prospect of Timney sear conversion a worthwhile exercise? good or bad experiences! can only assume must be ok result or people wouldn't bother.
Purely a matter of personal taste IMO. I do still have a Remington 870 Competition sear spring in my '63 12 gauge from when I shot a lot of clay pigeons.

2 Thinking a complete trigger group as a drop in spare might not be a bad thing if I can get my hands on as nothing available here whatsoever. Do you buy genuine or do people do complete refurbishments, or rebuilds? Are some better than others. Are trigger groups mainly plastic now and where do you look?
1100 still has aluminum trigger groups, but if they come out with a plastic one I will get one. I can't imagine you could get a "refurbished" 1100 trigger group that was any better than an original from Remington. If you could find one of the old Timney ones, they were first class IMHO.
3 I intend to run as a low volume target gun. What bits am I likely to need as spares and replacements down the track. I suspect extractors some springs possibly few other things . Any suggestions?
Usually I advise saving your money, but being in Oz does put a different light on things. I would get a spare 1) extractor, 2) feed latch, 3) firing pin retractor spring, 4) fore end support, 5) Interceptor latch, 6) interceptor latch retainer, 7) interceptor latch spring, and 8 ) a carrier latch. I have only ever needed one extractor in 53 years, but those are what I have replaced most often on other's guns.
4 I am going to run "wet" rig. What do people find as the best lube. Temps get hot here 50 winter worst to average 100-105 summer. Gets sticky humid as well up to 85-90% summer. Thin oils like remoil tend to just cook off or evaporate off pretty quick. We don't have the huge range of teflon lube's here at fingertips. Remoil as example is $30 can so you don't waste it. Any suggestions or secret recipe's worth trying? I can only assume some will work much better than others and I would do clean at say 200rnds.
I use RemOil and I used to use WD-40 (horror stories not withstanding) for 20+ years and never had a problem. I have shot from minus 11 F to plus 105 F - I used to be a lot tougher - or stupider - than I am now. Any good light oil should work. Any 5 weight synthetic motor oil should do, too. I run mine what you might call damp. I spray the gas system components and then wipe off the excess. I do always do the quick spray and wipe after shooting and before putting away. I have gone maybe 300-350 rounds max of really dirty Blue Dot reloads, maybe 500 rounds of target stuff. Maybe - pure bad memory here.
Add - a firing pin. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Virginian for all the good advice and experience stuff.
I will be putting that into practice in due course. The parts thing was important as you have to do miles of official government paperwork here to even get them so it is one of those things where you try and plan for everything and anything that might come along. Also gunsmiths few and far between here so you do everything yourself where humanly possible.

I had a chance by luck today to compare another guys older 1100 barrel against my 1187 side by side. He was running a 1100 classic trap. I took some quick measurements etc and fully understand what you described in earlier post with a spacer setup. I could see one of those new 1100 target barrels discussed working just fine.
If I did go that way would you then use a synthetic 1100 forend after the conversion or 1187?

One difference I did notice was the ejection dimple on 1187 barrel was set further to the rear of the tang by 1/4 " more in comparison to other guys Target Contour 2 3/4" only barrel. Would I be right in guessing that is to allow for the 1187 to handle 3" shells and to let them get back further from the chamber in travel before kicking out?
Also there was a raised dimple on his on the milled edge face of the tang that wasn't on 1187 barrel. Any clues what that one does or why it is there?.

Incidentally he told me he has started experimenting using Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil shooting it wet and it works fine compared to other stuff he had tried.
 

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The ejection dimple on barrels with 3 inch chambers are indeed 1/4 inch further back so the ejected hull clears the opening. The raised dimple you are asking about is a " knock down pin" added to trap guns so the shell ejects downward and does not hit the shooter on the next station.

Bobcat
 
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