Shotgun Forum banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Each are good in their own ways. Make sure your reloading recipes take into account the difference between the shells. Also, they can have different components to complete your load. Lastly, make sure you understand the difference and application between CFAA's and HSAA's.

They are both excellent shells. You cannot go wrong with either one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
While not 20ga you are asking about, I have and use both win AA's and some rem STS's in 12ga.
I have come to prefer the win AA's myself.
While I can not remember what load it was, back when I first started reloading 12ga, I was testing/comparing loads between the two using similar components. I was able to get more velocity and better patterns using the AA's than I could with the STS. (following published data).
I also found the AA's tend to last longer (for me anyways). I have some AA's that have a unknown number of firings on them (10-15, maybe more?) while the STS's I have had to toss some after the 2nd firing because of cracks on the crimp fold. Also found cracks on once fired STS's.
I have since bought several hundred once fired AA's to use and the STS's will be collecting dust.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
23,325 Posts
Not sure what phezbuster means by the difference between cf and hs AA's. Internal capacity is the same, so same data applies. I don't even sort mine
Many would argue that point, me included especially in the 12 gauge. If you want to load one oz loads in a WWAAHS 12 hull and throw powder with a mec #30 bushing or larger, you better use a 1 1/8 oz wad to get a correct crimp. There just is not enough room inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
775 Posts
For 20-ga? There is not even a close comparison; STS Premier is the best. The reason why you find so many of the HS around the club is that people throw them away! The AAHS often will come out looking great, box em up, three days later they have gotten pregnant to a point where they are dropping shot lose in your pouch.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
23,325 Posts
For 20-ga? There is not even a close comparison; STS Premier is the best. The reason why you find so many of the HS around the club is that people throw them away! The AAHS often will come out looking great, box em up, three days later they have gotten pregnant to a point where they are dropping shot lose in your pouch.
This is caused by too much wad compression when crimping, caused by the reduced interior volume. If you use a 7/8 wad for 3/4 oz in the 20 you should not have any problem
If you want to load 7/8 with a 7/8 wad in a HS hull, you better be using WSF, Longshot or 20/28. All these are dense powders that use less room in the hull.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nebs

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Hmmm. Granted, most of my 20s are the hs. I loaded a bunch of 3/4 oz with cb 1075 and unique. Almost out of wads, but I needed my universal bar for a different press. Loading 7/8 w/ the claybuster waa20 replacement. Still with unique. Comes out good.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
23,325 Posts
If you use a Universal charge bar with a fine powder, you should expect to see powder falling out from the under side of that bar. It slips between the underside of the adjustable slider and the measure assembly. The worst is Titewad in the 12 Gauge.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PennSkeet

·
Registered
Joined
·
341 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I load 28 gauge with the AAHS 3/4 oz and they seem fine. I think I will go with the STS. I shoot with some guys that load them in 12 and they really like them. They say they get lots of loads out of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,273 Posts
I load 28 gauge with the AAHS 3/4 oz and they seem fine. I think I will go with the STS. I shoot with some guys that load them in 12 and they really like them. They say they get lots of loads out of them.
You will regret it if you switch to STS in 28 gauge.

The AAHS is, by far, the best hull for the 28 gauge and 410. I like the STS better, but ONLY for 20 and 12 gauge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
If you use a Universal charge bar with a fine powder, you should expect to see powder falling out from the under side of that bar. It slips between the underside of the adjustable slider and the measure assembly. The worst is Titewad in the 12 Gauge.
Actually, 296, H110, and 300 MP are just as bad or maybe worse for leaking under the Universal Charge Bar. The tolerance gap between the valve and the bar is often wider than the individual grains of powder and they fall through. I actually had Multi-Scale replace a bar after I sent them pictures and explained the problem. The replacement bar leaked even worse!

Multi-Scale has since gone out of business and their Universal Charge Bars are no longer available.

Ballistic Products sells a new Adjusta-Drop bar for single stage loaders but nothing yet for the MEC line of progressive loaders.

I purchased a third-party manufactured charge bar on eBay that uses MEC bushings for both powder and shot. It was $20 plus shipping.

It leaks very little when loading the powders mentioned above and I'm able to dial in the shot charge exactly to what I need for a good fit.

Sorry to hijack the topic but I wanted to update everyone with what I experienced with powder leakage and what I did to get past the problem.

It could be relevant for when sandrooney begins loading 20 gauge hulls.

As Curly said, use a dense powder for best fit. The finished product will look as good as a factory shell!
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top