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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I have my light 20 that has a choke tube frozen up in the barrel and I can not screw it out. I have it soaking in penetrating oil now and plan on letting it sit for a few days and try to remove it again.. in the mean time, what other plan of action can be taken if this doesn't work, ie. heat, cold, and special oil or fluid that will cut into the carboned up area and get to the threads - like a wicking oil or fluid?

When I get it out, I will apply anti-seize.

Scott
 

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not that i have ever tried this, but i did read on a few posts, and if you do a search of this topic I am sure you can read it too, that some people heat up automatic transmission fluid in like a coffee can and invert the gun and let it soak in it for awhile. that should according to them, loosen it up. Then apply some sort of choke tube or high temp grease, not anitsieze, and just a little, to the threads to prevent it from happening again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Rich,

I searched but couldn't find anything, I recall reading something a month or so ago, but can't find it again..

Anti-seize works for me, just a dot, and wipe it of and don't overtighten the choke.. this one was installed dry about 18 years ago and has never been removed and it was tightened probably too tight at that time and....

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the input.

I was thinking of adding some heat using and heat gun, it will be the same as shooting and heating the barrel, maybe that will help.

I am going to borrow a remington choke tube wrench from a friend.

Probably will let it soak in the pen. oil until this weekend.

Scott
 

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Scott,

I wouldn't recommend heating the bbl. Heat will make the metal expand, but unless you have a way to ice down the tube, you're not making much headway. Plus, you're messing with tempered steel. I'd be hesitant to try heat (JMHO).

My son's 20 ga seized and I bought a good "speed wrench" and the tube came right out. I had totally trashed 2 other wrenches prior to the "speed wrench".

- PJ
 

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I've never done this but am willing to experiment with your gun, (wink, wink)

Cork the barrel and put crushed ice down it so it is in the choke tube.

Hit the outside of the barrel with a propane torch, very gently, from a good distance. You want it close but no too hot to touch.

Pull the cork and put that wrench on before the heat and cold equalize. Rotate.

Let me know if it works...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey Jeff,

I have an electric heat gun that I am going to use to heat with but hadn't really came up with a good idea on cooling the inside of the choke tube, I will probably give that a shot and see what happens.

Scott
 

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If all else fails (as it did in my situation), try this....

One of my co-workers inherited an old 870 Mag. from his deceased father. The gun had been closeted for close to 15 years - neglected the entire time.

The screw in choke was FROZEN in the muzzle and immovable despite both of our best attempts.

We ended up getting the choke out using the following method.

We got a steel chisel with a 6 sided shaft (like the head of a bolt) on sale at the local hardware store for $6 and used a grinder to flatten the cutting edge of the chisel. We then used same grinder to narrow the blade of the chisel just enough to fit in the slots on the choke. We then got an appropriately sized socket that fit the chisel handle and used a ratchet handle and breaker bar to turn the chisel while using a cloth strap wrench to hold the barrel (didn't have a vice which would have made it MUCH easier).

Out she came. Seemed a lot easier than it should have with all the previous effort. We did the soaking, broken choke wrench, pliers and a quarter, etc to no avail. It did force us to basically destroy a perfectly good $6 steel chisel, but it got the job done.

Once it was out it took a few chamber brushes, lots of solvent and rust remover, and a drill to clean the rust out of the threads in the muzzle and the choke itself was not reusable, but this method will get it out if it comes down to it.

Good luck.
 

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Long ago I used to rebuild machine tools. When milder measures had failed - soaking in penetrating oil had failed. An application of heat from a torch frequently helped break free a bolt. Take care with applying the heat using as little as possible. I know it seems logical that heat causes expansion, but it works well. Perhaps it is the different rates of expansion of the parts that breaks the bonds holding the threads or the heat facilitates the oil's penetration. I don't know or care how. It works well so long as it does not damage the parts. Of course a three foot cheater bar might just break off the bolt head then the fun begins.

Heat works in many circumstances. Hold a reluctant bottle cap under hot water and frequently it will twist free easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
applied heat from a heat gun, usin remington choke wrench, got the tube to turn a half turn and then the tube started rounding out the slot where the wrench rides at, now, back to square one...
 

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If all else fails, send the barrel to someone like Briley, who does barrel work, and have the choke machined out. Probably not the cheapest way but much cheaper than damaging the barrel and having to buy a new one.

Another way, which I just used last week, is put the gun together, put the choke wrench horizontally in a vise and try to rotate the entire gun. Make sure you have someone at the muzzle to keep the wrench in the slots in the tube. This worked well on my A5 Magnum 12. It actually came out very easily, much more so than I would have thought, given all of the grunting and groaning I had been doing.
 

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you might try rapping it ,gently, w/ a rawhide or rubber mallet while wrenching. i've broken some loose by imparting rapid jerks to the wrench handle sort of like a slow motion impact gun. you might try rapping it w/ the rawhide or rubber and resoaking. the shock of the rapping might break the corrosion enough to allow the penetrating oil to really penetrate. good luck
 
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