You will need a chop saw with a fine tooth blade and some sort of jig to make a square cut. Then you will have to refit the pad or install a new one, requiring a pad jig and a 10" disk sander or really big belt sander. Unless you have done this before, I would not run the risk of screwing this part up and would leave this to a gunsmith. The refinishing part is not all that tough and there are volumes of information about that. Depending on how much you need to shorten the LOP, you might be able to accomplish this with a thinner pad rather than cutting the stock.
Removing stock from 310s
I've never removed a stock from one of these, what do I need to look out for? Are there any springs, shims, washers etc... that I need to be concerned about losing when I pull the furniture off of the receiver?
I am wanting to shorten the stock, and refinish both the stock and the fore end. I've never done this, but I see that there are a lot of you that have, so information about the shortening of the stock would be greatly appreciated.
John :?
I am wanting to shorten the stock, and refinish both the stock and the fore end. I've never done this, but I see that there are a lot of you that have, so information about the shortening of the stock would be greatly appreciated.
John :?
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Thanks for the advice SS, I'd feel better about not cutting on the stock. I may try the thinner pad first, and if that doesn't help me bring the gun up any smoother, then I'll consider taking it to a smith.
Again, thanks for the advice.
Again, thanks for the advice.
Nothing will fall apart when you remove the stock. Every internal part will remain together and "in tune."Herchammer said:I've never removed a stock from one of these, what do I need to look out for? Are there any springs, shims, washers etc... that I need to be concerned about losing when I pull the furniture off of the receiver?
John :?
You need to remove the recoil pad. It has two screws. Try to use the smallest shank screwdriver possible with a little lube on it to protect the rubber from damage. Then remove the screw at the butt side of the trigger guard.
There will be a bolt head with a screw slot deep inside a channel that you'll need to loosen and remove. Sometimes they are extremely tight and you'll need a long square shank screwdriver that you can attach to a wrench in order to get enough leverage to loosen it.
Be very careful to keep the screwdriver head firmly and squarely in the slot when you loosen it. Some stocks have been cracked and ruined when the screwdriver slipped out of the bolt grove and it was accidentally twisted against the wood... Be sure the bolt has the factory washer on it when it's reinstalled. Reassemble with a reverse sequence..
Good luck!
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Shotgun Forum
A forum community dedicated to Shotgun owners and enthusiasts including the Remington, Beretta, and Mossberg shotguns brands. Come join the discussion about optics, hunting, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Top Contributors this Month
View All
oneounceload
775 Replies
slowshooter
206 Replies
J.Fred_Muggs
193 Replies
