Please post a review after you receive it.

 

Surely.

 

I recently bought the base F.A.I.R. Iside in 28 ga. I absolutely love it. The wood on the base model is plain, there is no engraving, and it has extractors rather than ejectors. BUT it balances and shoots like a best gun, and weighs less than 6 lbs, which is great for an old guy with bad shoulders. I don't miss the ejectors- you seldom get more than 2 shots on a grouse or pheasant, and with extractors my empties don't get thrown all over the landscape where I can' t find them. This is a class gun to kill birds with, not to show off at the skeet field. I also have an AYA sidelock 20 ga, but I like the Iside better.

 

I’ve had an Iside 20 for several years and it basically ended my search for the perfect sxs. The quality is unmatched until you get beyond probably $7k at this point. As far as comparing them to Beretta, come on man !

 

** If you read my initial post #1 " However, all the parts in the firearm from F.A.I.R. are subbed out to Fausti, Rizzini, Bettinsoli, Guarini, and many more to name a few". In other words, F.A.I.R. provides all the parts to those manufacturers as F.A.I.R. is number two in the world. Dale Pancake part owner of IFG holding 49% specified this to me via phone. So, you tell me who has the edge and who maintains the machinery? Certainly, engraving and chopper lump barrels may determine a higher cost yet the demi-bloc barrels of F.A.I.R. are considered extremely strong.

 

No experience with the iside beyond handling a few at the store (very well balanced). I do have a jubilee prestige tartaruga gold in 16ga though and it's a wonderful thing. Trim, well-balanced, and well-finished. You'll love your FAIR

 

Do you have the Jubilee 900 or 902? That is a very fine firearm. The 16 gauge is not proofed for steel is it? Thanks very much for the input.

 

Addendum
** I removed the serial number.

 

I have a standard Iside in 28 gauge, purchased in 2017. it is used it hard for small game hunting plus a few rounds of skeet & sporting clays. the last time I shot it I notices some bluing wear & frame case color wear from use/carrying.
other than that is has performed flawlessly. due to how well this gun has worked, in 2019 I purchased a FAIR Carrea One
HR 12 gauge for Trap, skeet & sporting clays. I use it but not as much as my CXT.
I recommend Fair guns & I know of 2 other shooters that bought a Fair, both like their guns. no issues with any of them.

 

Nuff said.

 

Nuff said.

* Can you tell me how to atach the forearm once the barrels are inserted? The lever is not moving center after insertion rather staying right.

l me

 

Is this normal or is it a crack? "Red Arrows".

 

Additional Pics.

 

From that second picture, I can't quite tell if you have the back of the foreend all the way onto the reciever. It looks like it's off (but also just off frame in the photo).

Edit I zoomed in and it definitely looks off. You need to get the ears on the forened into the the place the go then rock the forend upwards

 

Are you sure you have the correct forend? Have you had this shotgun assembled, or did you just unpack it?

Otherwise something has moved out of position. You said the screw inside the forearm is buggared? Red flag that someone might have messed it up. Barrel lug moving? It’s hard to diagnose all this without seeing it.

 

* 'Buggared'? Post # 15 is damaged screw or release pin. I purchased new and picked up today at dealer (FFL). Yes, I just unpacked it. Incorrect forend, hopefully not!

 

Better return to your dealer and see what’s going on with the gun. Good luck

 

Bought online. Right now I'm dealing with Dale Pancake part owner of IFG located in Texas. He owns 49% but has the say.

** I figured out the issue with attaching the forend to the barrels without mounting, yet 'I still cannot attach the forend to the barrels when the barrels are locked up. Part #669 which may be the ejector (unknown to me) has to be extended on both barrels for the forend to seat properly. However, i cannot attach the forend to the barrels when closed. Here is a pic of the parts denoting # 669.

 

The foreend is not back far enough.

 

The foreend is not back far enough.


View attachment 117764
View attachment 117765

** I know, that's the problem. I cannot move it back far enough to lock in. Actually, how do you cock the Side by Side? Would the ejectors be an issue with attaching the forend? I'm not familiar with S xSides at all.

 

I deleted video.

 

Sorry for the bad video, rushed it. Hopefully you can determine a bit more.

OK, I watchED the video. The only think that MIGHT be an issue in how you're doing it is to have the forend angled away from the barrels more before you rock it into place, but if for some strange reason they shpped a gun that just never will assemble, I don't want to suggest something that MIGHT cause damage.

 

Push the top lever and open the gun a little when you are putting the forend on.

 

I tried that to no avail. The top lever will only move to the right.

 

Better Video: A little.

 

The correct assembly of your shotgun - Fair

We recorded some short videos to show you the right way to mount, our over/under shotguns, side-by-side and Jubilee version over/under.

www.fair.it

*** Watch the Side by Side.

 

The correct assembly of your shotgun - Fair

We recorded some short videos to show you the right way to mount, our over/under shotguns, side-by-side and Jubilee version over/under.

www.fair.it

*** Watch the Side by Side.

To angle the forend really does not make sense. However, I tried right and left and there's no way to insert the forend. I believe the correct way is to move straight on.

Yes straight on (not angled right or left), but angled down more away from the barrels--like in the FAIR video you just posted. Straight away from the barrels. She uses a steep angle then rocks it towards the barrels

 

Tried that as well without success. The problem is that the forend will not move back far enough to engage or fit in the groove (slot). I'm not going to force it.

 

I found this on Shotgun Forum many years ago which may be relevant.
This may not work on all makes and models but, with the barrels locked into the frame and the top lever in the normal closed position, place the forearm against the knuckle of the frame. Push the top lever to the right and open the action while maintaining pressure against the knuckle. This may cock the hammers allowing you to push the forearm onto the barrel lug as you close the action.

FWIW, I routinely break down my SxS's and release the tension on the mainsprings by placing a block of wood against the standing breech and pull the triggers. Never had a problem assembling the barrels to the frame and snapping the forearm in place with the hammers down.

Find a hefty plank of wood and fix it on a stable surface, like a bench, then hold he forend vertically against the wood edge with the ejector hammers against the horizontal surface of the plank. Hold firmly against the vertical face of the plank and press down so the horizontal surface pushes back the ejector tumblers. It should cock them but it does take some effort.

Alternately you can open the barrels, as far as they can go without coming off the receiver and try to snap on the forend while the gun is open. It works on some guns, not all.

 

I received this from Moira Facchini this morning. The link will only be visible for two days. All replies are appreciated. That part in question is not attached to the forend. This may be the problem. I must get some sleep.

 

that is a video of the forend iron & cocking the ejector pieces. you should be able to cock them without taking the iron out of the forend.
however that does not look the same as the forend assembly on my Iside which is basically the same gun.
I may be missing something here ?

 

that is a video of the forend iron & cocking the ejector pieces. you should be able to cock them without taking the iron out of the forend.
however that does not look the same as the forend assembly on my Iside which is basically the same gun.
I may be missing something here ?

I cannot tell (2nd Picture).

 

pictures......

 

The video assisted me as the forend now fits on with the barrels locked in position. I'm new with Side by Side shotguns, actually a rookie at that. I was able to cock the 'ejector' without removing the forearm as per video using a wood dowel. Relatively easy, yet the first try slipped as I did not move it far enough.

** As for storing should the hammers > i.e. firing pins be cocked or uncocked and could you brief me as to the process? Again, I'm unfamiliar with Side by Sides as bolt rifles are my forte.

Here are some pictures as the one with the red arrows denotes the proper position of the ( I do not know the name of the part) 'lever'. Could you provide actually where the selective lever should be for storage > Up or Down and how is the shotgun able to release the firing pin (hammers)? A reply is appreciated. Thank you for the assistance. I lightened the photo with the red arrows to show more of the lever.

 

your forend looks the same as mine except for that lever/arm standing up. I do not know if a change was made on the forend assembly since I purchased it in 2017 as I do not see that arm/lever on my forend.

I prefer to store my guns with the hammers relaxed. the best way to do this is by using snap caps.
these are the style I like:

100 Straight CSP Wooly Snap Cap 28 Ga 2PK

These 100 Straight CSP Wooly Snap Caps combine an aluminum head and spring loaded primer with a wooly front section that can be treated with any rust...

www.midwayusa.com

do not buy the plastic ones, they will break after a period of time. good luck & good shooting with your SxS

 

your forend looks the same as mine except for that lever/arm standing up. I do not know if a change was made on the forend assembly since I purchased it in 2017 as I do not see that arm/lever on my forend.
Are you speaking of the picture with the 'Red Arrows' referring to the lever?

I prefer to store my guns with the hammers relaxed. the best way to do this is by using snap caps.
these are the style I like:

100 Straight CSP Wooly Snap Cap 28 Ga 2PK

These 100 Straight CSP Wooly Snap Caps combine an aluminum head and spring loaded primer with a wooly front section that can be treated with any rust...

www.midwayusa.com

do not buy the plastic ones, they will break after a period of time. good luck & good shooting with your SxS

*** "your forend looks the same as mine except for that lever/arm standing up. I do not know if a change was made on the forend assembly since I purchased it in 2017 as I do not see that arm/lever on my forend".

Are you referring to my picture with the Red Arrows regarding the lever you do not have"?
Thanks very much. Now that the forend is attached, the barrels will "not open". Picture enclosed. Any ideas?

 

I can now open both barrels fully. I had to exert a small amount of pressure.

 

Most new doubles (at least the ones I own) are stiff you open at first which is a sign of tight metal to metal tolerances. Berettas and my FAIRs have both been stiff--my 687 was so tight that when I opened it the force would move the spent hull so that it was no longer in contact with the ejector and it would not eject. The happened for maybe the first box of shells and it has been flawless for the next 24 years. Just lightly grease the mating surfaces and it will break in as they polish together with use (clean grease off and re-grease after using).

 

yes, the red arrows indicate a lever/arm that I do not see on my forend.
being a new gun it will be stiff opening & closing. after shooting a few hundred rounds it should be a bit easier to operate.
before using your gun, lube (gun grease) all the mating surfaces of the receiver, barrels and forend that pivot when
opening & closing. have fun with that sweet SxS

 

yes, the red arrows indicate a lever/arm that I do not see on my forend.
being a new gun it will be stiff opening & closing. after shooting a few hundred rounds it should be a bit easier to operate.
before using your gun, lube (gun grease) all the mating surfaces of the receiver, barrels and forend that pivot when
opening & closing. have fun with that sweet SxS

I'm uncertain if I wish to keep it. I'm in communication at this point.
* Is your forend difficult to remove?