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Loaded somebody else's used hulls on my Mec 650 only to discover they wouldn't chamber in my 870.

Rigged up a jr by taking the primer punch off and adding a short bolt that would push out my reloaded shells. Worked good.

This set me up to send 650s out in the Reloaders for Youth program with stand alone resizers only. I'll buy them myself to be sure the kids don't make my same mistake.
 

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Here's what happens when I let go of the wad too soon - before the guide comes down to the top of the hull. I have to keep the wad up against the bottom of the rammer tube until hits the top of the shell, then let the tube push the wad into the guide & hull.
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Not to change direction for the thread but IMO, if you're having to hold the wad up onto the tube, something ain't right. I simply set a wad on top of the wad guide fingers and I'm done. I've never held a wad anywhere...
Thanks for saying something. I went right down and checked the height of my wad guide and look at the space between the guide and the hull that could be reduced and possibly fix this, although I don't how it might help at the moment.
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The guide is a flip out version for long steel wads, but I'm going to lower it and see if I can begin dropping the wad and have it work. Thanks!
 

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Joe,
I'm not sure what loader you're using (I do see some MEC looking parts in the pic. ??) but I went and checked my 9000 and an early Grabber and the space between the top of the shell and the bottom of the wad guide, with the handle up, is about 1/2". A tic more on the 9000 with the newer wad guide and a bit less on the old style Grabber.
Mine's a handle driven 9000 and the space is 5/8". Hm.
 

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How will lowering the wad guide body down to only about 1/8" clearance above top of hull make wad insertion easy? The flex fingers in the wad guide will get pushed down as the wad starts to enter the hull. The fingers will also enter the hull mouth outside of the wad body. They will then be a 100% perfect guide to make sure the entire skirt of the wad gets INSIDE the hull, not catching on the hull mouth and bending the wad and the hull to the point of uselessness. There must be a little air gap on the tallest hull you run, or the wad guide won't swing over the hull and center itself so the wad smoothly stabs into the hull.

Properly adjusted, and with all the fingers intact in the wad guide, you can just set the wad in the guide and forget it. All will work.

good luck, garrisonjoe
Joe, as soon as I moved the wad guide down, this started happening at the resizer station.
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I had to loosen the bottom nut shown below and turn the shaft the wad guide is on counter clockwise one turn. This lowered the arm that goes over to the sizing station so the shell can be low enough for the lip of the brass to be in the corresponding groove of the resizer, else the lip gets smashed. I'm not showing a lot of this here, but I bet you know what I mean. Tightened that nut back up and it's working fine again.
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Did it not occur to you that maybe you lowered the wad guide too much? That squashed rim is a classic result of lowering the wad guide too far. Of course, you did remedy the situation by lowering the shell lifter fork.
Tried lifting it back up and it worked intermittently. So I lowered the arm going to the sizer. It's working now...
 
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