Shotgun Forum banner
1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone using a Spolar to load SW shells? One of their videos shows loading a mix of tapered and (I think?) SW shells with no press or tooling adjustments...

Question #2: anyone successfully add an empty shell auto case feed to a Spolar?

Thanks,

Capt_C
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
have been loading SW cases on my press for a while mainly Rios and other Cheddite cases no problems

only issue is to use correct primers if cases use oversize primers such as the Fio 616 or the Nobelsport
mainly load 7/8 loads turned down crimp die and final die half a turn

you can pm me if you want
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
743 Posts
I have a Spolar and see no reason why you could not load Straight Wall and tapered at the same time. There will be issues which will not give you the best results but if they are very close in length you could do it .

Issues
Differences in wads - Some loads for straight and tapered wads have the same wads but it is not the best choice

Powder- Frequently straight walls need more powder to achieve the same velocity.

Primers- Some straight walled use larger diameter primers. So you either can use large ones for everything or you may have primers fall out. Large ones expand primer pockets in most tapered. Once you go large don't go back.

You can do it but it is not the best option for consistency. Different hulls require changes to get the best results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
884 Posts
I load Fed top gun and Win AA without adjustment, just have to get the stack height right. I use Clays powder 1200 ft/sec load in both, Win 209 in both (top guns must be the solid silver primer for the 209s to fit tight). Green duster wads in the AAs and 12SO clones in the Top guns. I load on a Spolar with hydraulic system, I'm not sure a hull feeder would speed up the process much as I am feeding hulls and wads with my hands while actuating the machine with my foot, 25 shells per 3 min is pretty quick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,745 Posts
The hull feeder will speed up production about 5- boxes more per hour,I know,I use one.P/W used to
offer one for the Spolar,but does not anymore.I adapted a Dillon,case feeder to a P/W lower feed
assembly and had many problems along the way,but it is working very well now.I have it mod'd to load,12,20,28 & 410,but no 16 ga,as I don't have a 16ga,but the 12ga set up word probably work,just as well for that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,209 Posts
Not related to your question, but I think I'm going to get one for X-mas from the wife. Will go with manual unit and opt for the 20ga conversion and at some point go hydraulic. They sure are pretty and from everyone I've spoken with it can't be beat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,995 Posts
Yeah, I'm positioning myself to get one but with the PW auto drive electric drive unit (screw that pump thing).

I have some prep work to do first (like get, or build a bench), get rid (sell) a Ryobi table saw (with extension table system), and some other cleanup work.

If I wait for all of that to happen on it's own, It may never get done, so I might just order the thing now. That way it will be sitting there looking at me everyday, and that might be the motivation needed to get things rolling.

It's going to take 7½ years for the press to pay for itself (about the time I'll retire), so I need to get with it.



But that's at 10,000 reloads a year. If/when I retire, I expect to be shooting a lot more. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,995 Posts
Got it, thanks. I just looked at the video, and they talk (show) in detail how the cup screws into that intermediate threaded female part. No "snap" fit like the MEC, so no chance of it popping off if it gets "stuck" to the top of the shell if it encounters a longer (20-gauge) hull, so that's good.

Also, it looks like the actual pre-crimp adjustment is made at the stem where it screws up into the top plate (where I placed the yellow circle) :

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,739 Posts
Republican said:
If I wait for all of that to happen on it's own, It may never get done, so I might just order the thing now. That way it will be sitting there looking at me everyday, and that might be the motivation needed to get things rolling.
It looks like you might have a little bit to go, but the brain cloud seems to be clearing:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,995 Posts
Actually, I just got off of the phone with Dixie, and she said that the precrimp cup was originally the Hornaday part, but they had problems with the fins breaking off, so they went with the MEC precrimp cup, and do some of their own machining on them (on the O.D. presumably, and to drill a little hole in the center).

So if you get one of these machines, you can take solace in knowing that they'll always be a little part of "MEC" in it.

As far as the timing, she says they are about 6-weeks out from order date to delivery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,745 Posts
The Spolar does indeed use a MEC pre crimp,but it is designed for the Spolar loader,so you just can't
pull it off of the post to change it out,I purchased a threaded shaft from Spolar and have,the 6,8point and smooth crimp also, so I just unthread it off and change it out to what ever I want to use.Republican,you may want to save your Mec bushing,s and purchase the converter bushing,that
converts Mec to adapt to Spolar,P/W or Hornady.The converter is around 10 buck's and it is called a
MBC,[Mec bushing converter] BPI,has it Precision Reloading and Midway?I have been using it for over 20 years and it will save you a lot of bucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
305 Posts
I have had one for about a year, maybe a bit less. They tell you you do not have to adjust when loading different hulls in 20 and 12 ga. I've moved seamlessly between Winchester and Remington hulls in both 12 and 20 gauge. I have not reloaded straight wall Federals or Cheddite. I'll have to leave others to comment on those. I had no issues with even fine tuning between the hulls above, solid crimps and no holes or swirls.

410's and 28 do require adjustments when moving between manufacturers. Nothing more than precrimp and final crimp. I will add that after 410s have been around he block more than 5 times, you should fine tune. Seems the hulls get a tad longer, in addition to the crispy ends. I know some just never touch adjustments, I just have not found it to be a problem. These are simple adjustments, and just two stations.

Just my experience...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,995 Posts
Lexusclays said:
I have had one for about a year, maybe a bit less. They tell you you do not have to adjust when loading different hulls in 20 and 12 ga. I've moved seamlessly between Winchester and Remington hulls in both 12 and 20 gauge. I have not reloaded straight wall Federals or Cheddite. I'll have to leave others to comment on those. I had no issues with even fine tuning between the hulls above, solid crimps and no holes or swirls.

410's and 28 do require adjustments when moving between manufacturers. Nothing more than precrimp and final crimp. I will add that after 410s have been around he block more than 5 times, you should fine tune. Seems the hulls get a tad longer, in addition to the crispy ends. I know some just never touch adjustments, I just have not found it to be a problem. These are simple adjustments, and just two stations.

Just my experience...
So at almost a year into this, do you have any buyers remorse or anything like that? Still liking it?

Also, how do you power it? hand-powered, hydraulic, or the PW electric auto drive ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,400 Posts
Interesting that Spolar starts with a Mec crimp starter then does some machining. I was kind of bummed when a couple Mec starters wore out. Perfectly good starters, would continue to work fine, just would not stay snapped on. I drilled a hole through the center to fit a #6 SHCS. I then drilled and tapped through the head (right at the center) of a 1/4-20 hex head bolt to fit the #6 screw. Works good, should NEVER wear out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
350 Posts
I have owned a Spolar for three years. Love it. No buyers remorse. Had no issue with my Mec 9000's either. Never thought of payback, just speed as I really spend a lot of time loading both shotshells and brass for pistol and rifle and want to spend as little time as possible. Mission accomplished.

Also Bought Spolar to save space for 4 gauges. That worked too.

I have said before that this machine is just another mousetrap. Better? That's just opinion but the learning curve is a bit longer on this complex press.

Read the Manual. Watch the videos. The one thing that bit me was the crimp adjustment. It is not like the Mec and I started just loosening nuts and got out of adjustment. A quick call to Spolar and problem solved.

I do like the hydraulic unit but it is noisy. An electric drive would be great.

I always start manual reloading before a big run to make sure everything is set right, then I usually run a thousand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
I've had mine for about a year now and I love it. One of the things that I like most about it is that it is very easy to adjust settings. In fact, I keep the nuts on the pre-crimp and crimp stations only finger tight. When I'm trying out a new load I can easily adjust the settings by just spinning the die up or down with my hand. I think the Spolar can't be beat if you are loading with a large variety of hulls, wads, etc.
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top