What is in your "witches brew"? It really made that grain "pop"!
Nice work.

 

Looks great.
I also am curious about the witches brew

 

Yup it works. I learned this in wood shop 55 years ago and have used it many times to take out minor dings and make deeper dings less noticeable.

 

That looks great!

 

I have two witches brews.
4 oz Boiled Linseed oil
1 oz Raw Tung Oil
1 1/2 oz Pure Gum Turpentine
This other makes a paste wax that can be buffed for a waterproof shine.
4 oz Boiled Linseed Oil
4 oz Pure Gum Turpentine
6 oz Beeswax
Heat this over the stovetop to melt the wax & pour into a container that can be sealed. As it cools it will become a paste wax.
This was taught to me by a custom stock maker in Southern WI who passed away several years ago. I’m sure there are better products out there but this works for me. I will caution you that it takes a while for the Turpentine odor to dissipate if you don’t like the smell.

 

I have two witches brews.
4 oz Boiled Linseed oil
1 oz Raw Tung Oil
1 1/2 oz Pure Gum Turpentine
This other makes a paste wax that can be buffed for a waterproof shine.
4 oz Boiled Linseed Oil
4 oz Pure Gum Turpentine
6 oz Beeswax
Heat this over the stovetop to melt the wax & pour into a container that can be sealed. As it cools it will become a paste wax.
This was taught to me by a custom stock maker in Southern WI who passed away several years ago. I’m sure there are better products out there but this works for me. I will caution you that it takes a while for the Turpentine odor to dissipate if you don’t like the smell.

This is a beautful job. I'm wondering where you fround the components of the witches brew. Doesn't look like something I'd find in hardware store. Also could it be layered on Truoil? Thanks for sharing.

 

Wow! You did an awesome job. Looks great.

 

Thank you all for the kind words. Also as stated in many posts before, this process only works for dents and not deep scratches or gouges. And there was no urethane that had to be stripped prior to the steaming. This was a simple oil finish. Which is what I prefer in a gun stock. Because they don’t need to be stripped before a repair is done.

 

That’s why I prefer an oil finish on all of my guns. Makes it a lot easier to touch up. Great job.

 

I have stripped a lot of stocks of mine in the past because of superficial scratches that hadn’t penetrated the wood too badly. Most of which were that way when I purchased them. Once oiling them with this mixture, I just couldn’t use true oil or Lin speed oil again. Not that any of them are an inferior product, I just like the way this looks & I don’t mind the smell. The first one I did, I couldn’t believe the grain enhancement. I was sold.

 

Great job! Looks fantastic.

 

Wow! That looks so rich in color! I’m sure it will be much better at repelling moisture.

 

Very nice... I have been using Timberlux TimberLuxe™ Finish 1/2 oz. — TimberLuxe on my stocks. I like having a product I could make. Thanks for the recipe!

 

Very nice... I have been using Timberlux TimberLuxe™ Finish 1/2 oz. — TimberLuxe on my stocks. I like having a product I could make. Thanks for the recipe!

I’ve not heard of them. I see they have two recipes. What’s the difference between the two?

 

That is one of the nicest finishes I’ve ever seen! Thanks, except now I’ll never be happy with the refinishes I do. 😉

 

It really means a lot to me to hear all these kind compliments. Especially as a novice. It nice to know that I can actually offer good suggestions. But I can tell you for sure, the work that @Steven Rademacher has posted is truly exceptional. And it really meant a lot to me to have him react to this post.

 

Your "brew" is very similar to mine. It works wonders on oil-finished gunstocks.

 

Would you mind sharing your "witches brew"?

 

ShaunE posted his "brew" and it looks good to me.

Personally I use 1/3 Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil, 1/3 boiled linseed OR tung oil and 1/3 pure wood turpentine.

 

I have the mixtures posted.
And Steve, thanks for the review. It really means a lot to me. I’ve read several of your posts here & on the trapshooters forum & I can definitely say, it’s much friendlier here. Keep posting those. Especially the checkering. I really wish I’d have learned that art!

 

Real nice job you did. Looks great. I just bought one yesterday that has some wounds on it. I'm going to give it a shot. Have to find out if it shoots first though. Thanks for the recipe.

 

Thanks. Paint store good suggestion

 

Your "brew" is very similar to mine. It works wonders on oil-finished gunstocks.

ShaunE posted his "brew" and it looks good to me.

Personally I use 1/3 Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil, 1/3 boiled linseed OR tung oil and 1/3 pure wood turpentine.

That's sounds like good mix. The TruOil and turpentine provide the dryers while the linseed oil provides penetration in addition to the TruOil. Do you add a color or stain? I've done a mix with artist's grade refined linseed oil and artist's grade turpentine with success but like the addition of TruOil. Thanks for the reply.

 

That's sounds like good mix. The TruOil and turpentine provide the dryers while the linseed oil provides penetration in addition to the TruOil. Do you add a color or stain? I've done a mix with artist's grade refined linseed oil and artist's grade turpentine with success but like the addition of TruOil. Thanks for the reply.
I’ve never added any stain or tint as I wasn’t looking for any specific color. I can however see how this could get quite scientific to match things. I guess I didn’t want my rabbit hole to get too deep if that makes sense. As stated earlier. I’m just an amateur guy that has had success using this method & hope others can use this. But I sure bless anyone’s expansion on this.

 

I have a truoil stock that I want to darken/redden. Any suggestions? Its a little too blonde. I'm shooting for more vintage red/brown. Thanks.

 

Strip it and try a mix of 75% dark walnut stain and 25% redwood. Let dry for days and then apply Tru-oil, or Tung Oil.

 

I’m only guessing because I am an amateur, but if the finish has a clear type topcoat, you would need to strip that off prior to anything else. Once that is done, including using a plastic stiff bristled brush in the checkering, examine the color. I have never stained any of the stocks I have refinished. I’ve only used this mixture which does add some color however it’s pretty neutral & just enhances the grain without any tint. I’m no expert but depending on the wood used, I would expect the type of wood could dictate the tint. For example, I have a Birds Eye maple stock on an old 52 Winchester that was made for me that is very blonde. I’m thinking the wood specifically dictated that look. But my friend who made the stock is no longer living. Hopefully others who know more will chime in with their knowledge & experiences.

 

Be very careful using a stiff brush on Checkering. You can easily brush it right away. Checkering is very delicate.
the OP’s job was nicely done.

 

Be very careful using a stiff brush on Checkering. You can easily brush it right away. Checkering is very delicate.
the OP’s job was nicely done.

Amen, Doug. I used a toothbrush on the checkering of the forearm you fixed for me.....worked out just fine.