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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up a Cynergy CX yesterday, my first Browning. The wood is about a 6/10 from an appearance standpoint.....a few grain lines, but nothing special. Once home, and in better light, I noticed the checkering on both the forearm and the pistol grid appear to have been cut following the finishing process and seem to be raw wood. Any value to applying some sort of finish for protection? Maybe an oil of some sort?

Joe

on a side note.....what is the purpose of the plastic insert under the forearm?
 

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You could try some BLO, I have always used Teak oil to refinish my guns. No idea about the plastic insert, maybe a picture would help?

cdb
 

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For that type of problem, I have used clarinet bore oil with good success. It seals the wood, darkens it a bit, and does not leave any kind of shine
 

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Normally, checkering receives a very light coat of finish to prevent the finish from collecting in the bottom of the "vees" of the grooves. If "boiled linseed oil" is used, it tends to do that. It also softens the checkering, and it will wear down more easily.

If you try to apply some finish, use a very light coat, and apply it lightly, using a toothbrush or similar to apply a very light coat of finish especially in the grooves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here's another question.....what the heck IS the finish on this Cynergy. Browning calls it a "satin varnish"......I spend a little time finishing woodworking products, and I've never felt walnut so smooth (even if pore filled) unless a heavy build of topcoat is applied. If you tap the forearm with your finger nail, it almost sound plastic-like....maybe just because there isn't much mass there.

I've read that a light coat of tru-oil can be applied over this finish to bring out the grain a bit and add a bit of sheen....but it almost seems too "sealed" to allow any finish to penetrate.
 

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My guess would be lacquer because it is easy to apply, dries super fast and looks great. My Cynergy is the same way and I did apply Watco oil over the original finish which in my opinion improved the appearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Casonet.....did the Watco "soak in"? My experience with Watco is to flood the surface, let it absorb for a bit, then remove the excess and any later seepage....let cure, then repeat until desired sheen.

If you happen to have a before/after pic, I'd love to see it....or even just an after.
 

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Yes, wipe on liberally, wait a few minutes, then wipe off with a dry cloth. Repeat this process every day or two after each coat is completely dry. I'm not good with photos. I've finished stocks in this fashion by applying 30-40 coats. The results are stunning to put it mildly.
 

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Watco Danish wiping oil is not a two part epoxy. Are you referring to the original finish that Browning uses on their guns?
 
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