[KC]

I know they show up on ebay every once in a while, but I was wondering if any of you might know of a source that sells used forearms.. The new forearms you can still purchase are not exactly the same in contour. Meaning they are not tapered at the magazine cap end like what you see on the older forearms. I'm refering to Standard 12 ga by the way.

I'd actually like to find a used forearm that will more closely match the finish on my gun as it is now...

Thanks.

 

[Bobshouse]

http://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgw ... ing-auto-5

 

[KC]

bobshouse,

Thanks for the link,

But I have already bought one from them and they are "new" and like I mentioned have a different contour in relation to the original forearms that are on all of my Standard A5's...
They are not tapered at the magazine cap end...

I'm really looking for used...

KC

 

[Jeff Mull]

Because of the number of cracked forearms there has been a brisk trade right along in new ones. And if someone parted out an old A5 they would likely have or quickly find a use for the forend. So I doubt there is a magical stash of used forends out there waiting to be discovered.....

I'd buy a new one, refinish it in a finish that is similar to your "old" gun and then hunt it hard for a couple of seasons to develop the patina. You'll need to do the refinsh because the browning two part finish is so durable that you won't live long enough to have it "age" to fit match a stock from an early gun.

 

[rer]

KC,
If you are not in a big rush to replace your forearm,
Watch the 'store' section of e-bay that is listed underneath the general auction part of "browning auto-5". Often dealers list multiple browning items including forearms. Track the dealer down and give them a call. If they have several used, intact, forearms, they should be willing to let you mail them your butt stock so they can try and match the color. You will still probably need to match the finish yourself -- which isn't too difficult to do.
good luck

 

[uglydog]

You could try calling Ahlman's Gunshop in Morristown, MN. They have a room full of various gun stocks and forearms from all eras. Being a Browning authorized repair center of many decades (their gunsmiths have been around for quite a while too) they should know what you are looking for and actually be of assistance. I don't have their number off hand but a search should easily turn it up.

 

[KC]

Thanks

 

[Bodine]

Arts Gunshop (636)944-3630 - Just bought one for 20GaMag - Used $18.50 great shape - Nice folks.

 

[GEODUXX]

Search gunbroker.com and gunsamerica.com :wink:.

 

[KC]

Jeff,

How would you recommend going about refinishing a new forearm. I have one that I could do just that.. The finish on it now does not match any of my guns as I would say that it does not have the redish tint that I need to match.

So how should I strip or remove the new finish to then refinish? I have done some touch up work before on one or two forearms but never a total refinish... What would you use, I guess is my question... Right now it's a really nice forearm but the finish is a really Brown Medium Dark Walnut. I'll really need to get that off to have a good shot at matching the old finish.

 

[KC]

Well, I stripped the finish off... All I really got off was the polyurethane gloss. There must be no stain or dye on the wood...

It is a really dark walnut... I have tried various stains on it and it just gets so dark... The old wood has to be different all together...

I went ahead and sanded it some and also continued the grove on each side to extend to the magazine cap like the older forearm, and the wood remains the same in color...
Just can't find anything to lighten it...

Any suggestions.????

 

[Jeff Mull]

You cannot make dark wood light. If sanding did not lighten it then the color is in the wood, not finish or stain. You could try soaking it in the Wonko's brew system.....but there may be no point. If your stock is too light for the forend then darken the stock to match the forend, or get used to it the way it is.

The finish I like is 50/50 spar urethane and tung oil. You put it on like an oil finish but it builds faster and is much more waterproof than oil. I do it is real thin coats like linseed, maybe 20 or so wet sanded after every 5. It takes a month to do it right so I usually don't start a gun I need right away.

It is not as waterproof as the poly finish from the factory but it is much more classy and has the soft glow of an old hand applied finish.

Jeff