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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting into reloading, thanks to croberts selling off his Fiocchi hulls, but since I have about two cases of Federal ammo I bought from Wal-Mart, and since they're both straight-wall cases, that means I can use the same wad in both.

Anyone have any success in reloading Wal-Mart Federal ammo? This isn't the promo pack we're talking about, but this isn't the Gold Medal Target stuff either.

Cameron
 

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I believe these would have a paper base wad and I personally don't reload anything with paper base wads. But it is said that you can reload them once or even twice if you check them. I shoot with a guy that reloads them more than that but I will not shoot his ammo in my gun. He also reloads Kent hulls numerous times, and he only uses blue duster wads. The crimp is a tad low but they work for him.

However if they have gotten wet it is suggested to not reload them. And yes you should be able to use the same wad as the Fio straght wall huls. Look for recipies on powder manufacture's sites or in a manual.
 

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I started trap shooting using the Walmart Federal 100 pack 1-1/8oz target loads and the 1 oz gameshok loads. These hulls are the same.

Then I started to reload. With these Federal hulls, I used 17gr Clays with Claybuster WAA12 wads and Fiochi 616 primers with 1-1/8oz #8 shot on a MEC SizeMaster.

The only tip in reloading the Federal hulls is not to set the wad too deep and adjust the crimp depth to avoid getting a hole in the middle and shot falling out. Once adjusted the crimp looks great. When shaking a reloaded shell, there isn't much shot rattle inside. They shoot better than factory because of the better wad. But what's interesting is that specific Federal hull smell that still linger even with the Clays powder.

If you will be switching to the Fiocchi purple hulls, you would need to readjust the wad pressure and cirmp since the settings for the Federals will differ. I've tried some Fiocchi hulls and ended up with a hole in the middle of the crimp.

Since then I've switched to a MEC 9000 and Remington STS hulls and love these with both WAA12 an Figure8/White8 wads. You can buy them from Gun Broker postings by [email protected] for between 3-3.5 cents a piece+shipping.
 

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What follows is my experience with 12 ga Top-guns dating back about 10 years. I loaded up about 400 once-fired hulls using an old Texan press. On firing, I had several hulls come apart on extraction from a Win 101. By this I mean the metal separated from the basewad and sleeve. More disturbing was that one hull came out apparently intact, but was minus a basewad. The basewad was not in the barrel. And I am 100% certain that I did not drop the basewad after extraction.

I reload polyformed hulls, including Fed GMs, new AAs, and small gauge STSs. I will never reload paper basewad Federals again.

Sam
 

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Sam, you didn't "happen" to notice one of those shells kicking much worse than the others, did you? You might want to really check your bore! What happened to me, wasn't very noticeable, until I really, really looked for it!

That is what happened to me, but with multiple loads. They seemed to be shooting just fine, although I would find a base wad up halfway in the hull and a couple even at the mouth of the hull. And a few, pulled the base wad up on the depriming punch. Dumb me, I just threw those away and went on loading them.

Then one day, one gave me a hell of a recoil! I couldn't figure out why, checked the gun, etc. Found nothing wrong at the moment and went on shooting. Later when cleaning, I noticed a bulge in the barrel, right at the end of the forcing cone. Just a little, .007/.008 or so. Then while sorting and inspecting hulls, found one with NO base wad!

Apparently what happened, the shot before the horrendous kick, the base wad made it out past the hull mouth, and stopped at the forcing cone. Now, I remember that both the previous shot and the kicker broke the birds. Nothing what so ever different in feel or sound, in the shot previous to the heavy kicker, that did the job on the barrel.

All that said, I still reload them ONCE and only once! And never without knowing their history, never random pickups and sure that they have never been wet, or even damp. I also mark the base with a permanent marker, so as not to ever get them back in the stream. Never had anymore problems. I did section numerous of them and even once fired, they run the gamut from being very well crimped in, to almost falling out when the hull is sectioned. Crimping is just not a very good manufacturing method, for most products, and there is not a good non destructive method. Only spot checking on the line to see if all is working well, and when they do find some problem, likely just fix it and don't pull any previous product.

Zeede, the Federals, (and Estates made by Fed), are of two basic types, either paper base wads, (and some of those can be labeled as a target load), or the Gold Medal and another target load that has the same plastic base wad as the GM.

So if they are not GMs, but labeled target, check the base wad, if it is plastic, it can be relied on as a GM. Multiple loads, OK. (The plastic base wads are either one piece with the hull, or plastic welded to the hull itself, hard to tell just which.)

Other wise, any of the ones with the paper base wads, labeled target or not, can/should also all be treated the same as any in that paper base wad category.

Clyde
 

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Clyde,

No, there was nothing unusual in terms of report or recoil. And these were all the first reload of once-fired hulls.

That 101 is long gone, but I fired many thousands of rounds through it. There were no bulges - sometimes luck trumps brains.

Sam
 

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Lots of "urban legends" out there, including the promo shell base wad that ringed a barrel when it stuck in the barrel and the next rd was fired. Then again I have seen a ringed Perazzi bbl and the owner claims it was from a basewad lodged in the barrel.

With QUALITY, easy to reload 12's almost EVERYWHERE, literally free for the asking, why screw with the promo shells?

Then again...... reload them once or twice, check the barrel between shots and have fun.

FN in MT
 

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This one is not an Urban Legend, FN! I know lots of people think it is, but they are wrong!

And I think it used to happen more often than it does today. Back when all hulls had a paper base wad. I still see old guns coming out of estates, etc. that have ringed barrels, not far up from the chamber. (Have seen bunches of them in my lifetime) Lots of them were kept in use, until the owner got too old, etc. and then never come out of the closet, until some relative decides to part with the heirloom.

Or like the latest I saw, an OLD Ithaca model 37 with a ring at about 17 inches from the breach face. The guy had been shooting it, just a little bit for years, having been handed down to him. Not a target shooter, just a bit of a hunter. Well he lost his right to own a gun, (3 DUIs) and had to part with it. That barrel is now sawed off at 18 1/4 inch and shoots like a modified choke. (Instant jugchoke!)

Clyde
 

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Yah, you can reload those Walmart Federal shells if you want too --- others have explained in the above posts way beyond what I could do.

If you ever buy the bulk 100 pack of cheap shells from Walmart again, though, do yourself a big favor and buy the Remingtons instead. Those Rem. cheapo hulls can be reloaded 15+ times without so much as a hich. You use the data labled "Remington Unibody Hulls" for loading those.
 

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turbo1889 said:
Y

If you ever buy the bulk 100 pack of cheap shells from Walmart again, though, do yourself a big favor and buy the Remingtons instead. Those Rem. cheapo hulls can be reloaded 15+ times without so much as a hich. You use the data labled "Remington Unibody Hulls" for loading those.
That is right, although the factory load might not be exactly what you want. After that you can stuff them with whatever you want.

Clyde
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wow, thanks for all the info! I'll just pass on reloading the Federals I have. I do have some related follow-up questions though:

1) Fiocchi hulls. I'm rather confused on how many firings I should expect to get out of them. Lyman's says that the one piece quality hulls like the STS and old AA's should get 6-8 firings before any drop in ballistic performance. More is doable, but ballistic performance may suffer. They go on to mention that Federal Gold Medal, Remington STS, Winchester AA and Fiocchi plastic hulls are all popular for reloading because they're quality target factory loads.

For the polyformed hulls, they recommend 3 firings, with the exception of the new Winchester AA polyformed hulls which are supposed to give the same reloading performance as the old one piece design.

So I'm confused. On one hand, they say that quality target load hulls (my Fiocchis) should give me 6-8 firings. But then they say that polyformed hulls should give less, like three.

So which is it?

2) Any difference between the green Premier/STS hulls and the gold Nitro ones?

Cameron
 

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Zeede said:
1) Fiocchi hulls. I'm rather confused on how many firings I should expect to get out of them. Lyman's says that the one piece quality hulls like the STS and old AA's should get 6-8 firings before any drop in ballistic performance. More is doable, but ballistic performance may suffer. They go on to mention that Federal Gold Medal, Remington STS, Winchester AA and Fiocchi plastic hulls are all popular for reloading because they're quality target factory loads.

For the polyformed hulls, they recommend 3 firings, with the exception of the new Winchester AA polyformed hulls which are supposed to give the same reloading performance as the old one piece design.

So I'm confused. On one hand, they say that quality target load hulls (my Fiocchis) should give me 6-8 firings. But then they say that polyformed hulls should give less, like three.

So which is it?

Neither. The NEW AAHS hulls are not compression formed, but are actually a two piece hull, and the Fiocchoi always has been.

I think either would be prudent to load less times than the true compression formed old AA's or the Remingtons.


2) Any difference between the green Premier/STS hulls and the gold Nitro ones?

No, and you can pretty safely load them "till the cow come home" or the crimps just wear out.

Cameron
Clyde
 

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I have a 1oz Lighting Steel reload recipe that I use for the Federal paper base wad shells. I use it for my steel duck hunting loads...I use it once then toss it. #3 shot @1560fps (I think).

For me and the wad I'm using they work better than the remington hulls. Seems like hulls get so dirty/muddy/wet when I go duck hunting that I really don't want to use most of the hulls again anyway. Plus the shooting volume is really low so getting and having enough hulls to last a season isnt a problem. A couple days at the skeet range can add up to more rounds fired than a season of duck hunting..where I go 15-20 times.
 

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Jug Chokes warning is certaintly something to be concerned with. I can recall warnings about basewad seperations at lest 20 years ago. The vast majority of the time, you couldn't blow the BW out of a Federal hull with TNT. This is the result of a defective hull. Yes, Jug is right, if you don't shoot hulls that don't have seperate basewads, you can't have a seperation. My problem & the problem with many other reloaders is we shoot guns & loads for which there is no or few one piece hulls available & just because a hull is "once fired" or even factory new, doesn't mean it can't have a BW seperation. A defective hull is a defective hull regardless. Most BW seperations seem to be w/ plastic BWs these days & an alarming percentage are with factory loaded shells.
So what does the prudent reloader do? Personally, I inspect my hulls carefully before I reload them & discard any hulls that show signs of deterioration or a loose BW. Some folks think shooting a auto adds to the probability. I don't know but I do shoot SXS's. I started reloading in 1961, before one piece hulls were invented or plastic hulls came one the market & never saw a BW seperation until WW put the HS hull on the market but it only takes one to ruine your day. I always try to err on the side of safety.
 

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jkcerda said:
old thread, but, wondering if I could use 18 GRs of hodgen glay powder. Federal 209 primer and waa12L wad with 7/8 shot on these, or should I just buy new hulls?
Obvious new reloader there!

The writing above scares me! Nothing precise about it.
As in just what the hell is "hodgen glay powder"?
209 Federal primers haven't been manufactured in something like 20 years now. Are you sure that you meant that, particular primer? Do you have some of the old stuff?

Or do you actually mean, Federal 209A primers? Pretty big difference to neglect.

I am not familiar with the "waa12L" wads either. Is that a true Winchester wad?
Most Winchester wads that I am familiar with are a bit small in diameter for the Federal straight walled cases. Winchester wads are usually designed for tapered wall cases. And will allow powder migration out past the base of the wad. Possible blooper time.

Plus, the normal Winchester wads with only 7/8 oz shot, in that large volume Fed case, would likely leave air space, or the crimp would be severely dished in.

Not trying to be a horse's a$$, but don't reload if you can't be precise!

But you asked, that is good, better safe than sorry. Go slow and carefully. Just because maybe the books stated a particular recipe, doesn't necessarily mean that it is a good load, just that it passed their pressure testing requirements.

And yes, I haven't had anymore problems, since I started reloading them only one time. But I actually mark the bases with a flow pen, so as to not reload a particular hull again. Likely, the next guy doesn't!

Base wad problems seem to be most prevalent in 12 gauge, decreasing as the gauges go smaller. The 20 ga, few and far between, and virtually non existent for the 28 and the .410.
 
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