What else do I need?
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Joined
·
1,939 Posts
Hi,
Congats! on your purchase. Wal-Mart or such will have cleaning kits, cases, and even shells.
Outers makes a decent cleaning kit that's not too expensive. And I personally prefer a soft case with a full length zipper. Spend a little money on a good case, it'll be worth it.
Dale
Congats! on your purchase. Wal-Mart or such will have cleaning kits, cases, and even shells.
Outers makes a decent cleaning kit that's not too expensive. And I personally prefer a soft case with a full length zipper. Spend a little money on a good case, it'll be worth it.
Dale
Thanks Dale. Is that it though??
Will a standard cleaning kit have everything I need?
Are there any additional oils I will need to use for storage?
Can I store it in a soft case, in a safe/dry place?
What about snap caps? Should I keep those in it when storing?
Anything special I'll need for clays/skeet?
I saw a book "The Orvice Wingshooting Handbook" referenced quite a bit. Is this a good reference? Others?
Any recommended books for Shotgun Maintenance?
Will a standard cleaning kit have everything I need?
Are there any additional oils I will need to use for storage?
Can I store it in a soft case, in a safe/dry place?
What about snap caps? Should I keep those in it when storing?
Anything special I'll need for clays/skeet?
I saw a book "The Orvice Wingshooting Handbook" referenced quite a bit. Is this a good reference? Others?
Any recommended books for Shotgun Maintenance?
Joined
·
511 Posts
eorer
Dale is right, a "good" case is worth all you spend.
My advice on cleaning kits is get one that the attachments (brush, swab holder, etc.) are full sized threads not necked down to fit with an adapter. It might be that I have the delicate touch of a blacksmith, but I have broke a few of these. I believe the one I bought last was a Remington cleaning kit.
For external use and contact part lube I would suggest "Rigs" it works well for me.
For any clays shooting a vest with shell pockets is always a good move but they are a bit pricey sometimes a good pouch that fits on your belt to hold live and spent shells is almost mandatory.
Eye and ear protection not only makes goods sense but, in my experience, is required by clubs where you would shoot.
A bag to carry your stuff (extra chokes, water bottle, boxes of shells, etc) is real handy in skeet and trap, and pratically essential in clays. You wont need a expensive "logoed" bag a simple $14.00 nylon bag I bought at Staples has served me for 5 years now.
I'm sure I missed something but someone else will help me out I'm sure.
Welcome, Welcome my friend to the sport enjoy and be safe.
Dale is right, a "good" case is worth all you spend.
My advice on cleaning kits is get one that the attachments (brush, swab holder, etc.) are full sized threads not necked down to fit with an adapter. It might be that I have the delicate touch of a blacksmith, but I have broke a few of these. I believe the one I bought last was a Remington cleaning kit.
For external use and contact part lube I would suggest "Rigs" it works well for me.
For any clays shooting a vest with shell pockets is always a good move but they are a bit pricey sometimes a good pouch that fits on your belt to hold live and spent shells is almost mandatory.
Eye and ear protection not only makes goods sense but, in my experience, is required by clubs where you would shoot.
A bag to carry your stuff (extra chokes, water bottle, boxes of shells, etc) is real handy in skeet and trap, and pratically essential in clays. You wont need a expensive "logoed" bag a simple $14.00 nylon bag I bought at Staples has served me for 5 years now.
I'm sure I missed something but someone else will help me out I'm sure.
Welcome, Welcome my friend to the sport enjoy and be safe.
Joined
·
7,182 Posts
Eoer here is a good cleaning kit.
READ YOUR MANUAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Boresnake in proper ***** http://www.pheasantcountry.com/gear/Detail.cfm?ID=49
BreakFree CLP http://www.break-free.com
Birchwood Casey Gun Cloth http://www.birchwoodcasey.com
Long Wood Handle Q-Tip Swabs
Rust Prevention http://www.theinhibitor.com
A good gun case http://www.americase.com
A good multitool http://www.gerberblades.com/products/vi ... model=5500
Lint Free shop clothes
Choke Tube Lube and Gun Grease in a syringe looking thing.
All found at large retailers and sporting good stores.
READ YOUR MANUAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Boresnake in proper ***** http://www.pheasantcountry.com/gear/Detail.cfm?ID=49
BreakFree CLP http://www.break-free.com
Birchwood Casey Gun Cloth http://www.birchwoodcasey.com
Long Wood Handle Q-Tip Swabs
Rust Prevention http://www.theinhibitor.com
A good gun case http://www.americase.com
A good multitool http://www.gerberblades.com/products/vi ... model=5500
Lint Free shop clothes
Choke Tube Lube and Gun Grease in a syringe looking thing.
All found at large retailers and sporting good stores.
I do not have access to a gun safe. I don't think my wife is going to go for a gun safe on top of everything else right now. It would be best to break her in slow to avoid divorce. Would some sort of a hard case be acceptable with some sort of moisture preventor apparatus?
If you've got a double, take it from someone who's got 20K+ rounds downrange in one.
You want what's called a Tico tool. It's the long fuzzy thing. If you shoot a lot of shoot clean ammo and don't mind buying a new tico every six months you can simply shoot, then open the gun. Scrub both bbls with a DRY tico and close the gun. Wipe off exterior and put it away. Every few months you'll want to do as indicated below. Or if you shoot 'promotional' ammunition, same thing.
To clean, pop off the forearm, open the gun and remove the bbl ***'y.
Wipe your action assembly down with Break Free CLP (good stuff) and set it aside where it won't get solvent / crud / kicked etc...
Now, take the bbl set and clean the outside somewhat with that breakfree.
Now for the barrels themselves. Take a hook / loop (the kind you put a patch into) rod attatchment, and soak a fairly large (3"x3" for 12ga) patch in solvent. Run it down both bores, twice, taking the patch out and turning it each time. Let the bores sit for a minute or so when you're done.
Now use your brush and a totally clean patch. Force it through gently, twice each side, turning the patch (I'm stingy). Get a new patch and do it 2X more. Run one more new patch through both bbls once.
Now take your tico tool and run it through both bbls until you're happy that they're nice N shiny. You really don't need any oil at this point unless you're putting the gun up for more than 3-5 weeks. If you are, put some breakfree on a patch (like five drops) and run it through the bbls a few times.
You want what's called a Tico tool. It's the long fuzzy thing. If you shoot a lot of shoot clean ammo and don't mind buying a new tico every six months you can simply shoot, then open the gun. Scrub both bbls with a DRY tico and close the gun. Wipe off exterior and put it away. Every few months you'll want to do as indicated below. Or if you shoot 'promotional' ammunition, same thing.
To clean, pop off the forearm, open the gun and remove the bbl ***'y.
Wipe your action assembly down with Break Free CLP (good stuff) and set it aside where it won't get solvent / crud / kicked etc...
Now, take the bbl set and clean the outside somewhat with that breakfree.
Now for the barrels themselves. Take a hook / loop (the kind you put a patch into) rod attatchment, and soak a fairly large (3"x3" for 12ga) patch in solvent. Run it down both bores, twice, taking the patch out and turning it each time. Let the bores sit for a minute or so when you're done.
Now use your brush and a totally clean patch. Force it through gently, twice each side, turning the patch (I'm stingy). Get a new patch and do it 2X more. Run one more new patch through both bbls once.
Now take your tico tool and run it through both bbls until you're happy that they're nice N shiny. You really don't need any oil at this point unless you're putting the gun up for more than 3-5 weeks. If you are, put some breakfree on a patch (like five drops) and run it through the bbls a few times.
Thanks again! One more question. I read somewhere that you should only clean the bbls in one direction, from chamber to choke, when cleaning the inside. Running a brush back and forth can increase the possibility for scratches or abrasion. Is this true?
Joined
·
7,182 Posts
Once you get a boresnake you'll never use a brush and patches again. Trust me on this.
Joined
·
48 Posts
You may want to try the new VpCI line of gun products they're made by Bull frog. I've had really good results with this product! They also make a gun sleeve that is impregnated with they're rust inhibitor.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
