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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fixed the crack in the forearm of my 63 A-5 lite 12. Decided to refinish the wood, sanded it down. Low and behold, the wood is almost blond. Really, really light. Now what the heck is this about, what kind of wood is it? This is the orignal forearm to the gun. Bushing label on the inside of the forearm. But blond, not what I really wanted to find under the finish. Do I have to stain the wood before oiling it? Howard
 

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Howie,

You have the same kind of wood that are on 3 of my A5's, two of which I am in need of replacint forearms...

It's not the American Walnut that is on the new forearms and stocks... It's got to be something else obviously...

But don't panic, You have a better shot at matching the original finish, due to it's light color that will not over darken with the addition of stain or varnish.

The Forearm I am dealing with is Dark Walnut, and I'm triing to match it to wood that is just you describe... It is impossible, as it is to dark in natural color..

But once you stain it to match the original color I recommend using the MinWax Fast Drying Polyurethane in the Semi-Gloss fiinish... It matches the original sheen on a used gun of that age very, very well....

Let us know..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Used enough 2 part epoxy in the forearm to almost call it a composite material. Cleaned up nice after curing. Sanding done and applied stain. Local hardware had no idea what Aniline dye was. Did the research on the net about Aniline dye. Patients is not one of my virtues. Sooooooo, used the stuff he had on the shelf, Minwax, red mahogany was my choice. Come out nice, nice rich color. Now stripping the butt stock of it's cracked varnish. Found dark walnut wood color on the top comb than fades to a light sap wood in the rest of the butt stock. Same color as in the forearm. So I be thinking the forearm wood is walnut sap wood. Still heck of alot lighter than the old M-11's I own. Thanks guys for the help! Howie
 

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Howie1049, sorry it took me so long to get back to you.

Analine dye is a powdered dye that is water soluble, they also make a alcohol soluble dye as well. You can buy a variety of colors that will match almost anything. Any woodworker supply store sells them. You would probably have to order them.

Analine dyes will bring out the figure an grain in woods where stains lie on the surface an muddy the look of the grain. IMO.

Being the forearm is a light colored wood its possible that its sap wood, or might be a french walnut instead of American walnut.
 

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The wood on the Browning stock is English walnut, or European walnut. (The kind of tree that has Engilish walnuts on it). In general it is harder, finer grained, and takes checkering better than American walnut. Gunstocks are generally more expensive when made of English walnut. However much of the English walnut is light or blond in color and fancy grain patterns are rarer than in American walnut. Hence you need to stain the wood if you want a dark color.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys for the info. Grain in the wood on the forearm and butt stock are light color and tight. Seen more grain figuring in pine than this stock has. Now it's a nice red mahogany color, slightly darker than the orignal. Stain took very evenly. Give it acouple of days than apply the oil finish as I like my stocks. Cleaned, stock sealed, ready for the bloody brambles again next fall. Will sure look nice practicing on clays this spring and summer until than. To this day I still remmeber the first Browning humpback I ever seen. I was 6 years old, the old guy next door had just come home from pheasant hunting. The shotgun was prop against the house by the back door with a brace of pheasants laying on the ground next to it. His words still ring in my ears from his back door, hey kid, keep your damn mitts off the gun. Funny how a guy can remmeber things like that 50 years ago. Howie
 
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