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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been seeing a few people (IE Lex Talio) talk about using a roll crimp for reloads. Where can I get my hands on a roll crimper and also find instructions on how to use it. I would like to load some heavier shot loads for the upcoming duck season, for myself and a friend that will be hunting with me, and would like to try out some recipes before the season starts. I have seen a few pictures of older roll crimpers, but can't seem to find any new models on the market. Does anyone still make them or do I need to go scrounging for an old one? Thanks in advance!!! ---AFG
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response Rick. I got on the BPI site and ordered the crimper set along with the vise and video. By the time that I get done buying all of this reloading equipment I could have bought a new motor for my Harley. This is just as much fun though, so thanks for the help.-----AFG
 

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As long as your having fun its money well spent! Let me know how they turn out.

Rick
 

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AFG and All....You bought the best one! I don't use the vise, as the die on my PW 375 works great.
Now, a couple of suggestions........if you can, buy your hulls unskived, as they roll crimp better. The best 12 ga 3" hull, and the one I use most, is the Fiocchi "brown" BPI#0641230 , 7mm base wad & 16mm brass, primed with Fiocchi 616 primer...from Ballistic Products Inc. (Don't buy the Greens). The "Browns" are the hulls Fiocchi uses for their Turkey Thunder loads. Don't listen to these people try to tell you that the over shot wad used with rolled crimp will blow you pattern. It was not the top wad in the old shells that was causing donut patterns, but rather the hard heavy waxed filler wads blowing into the rear of the shot leaving the barrel. Hi-speed photos proved that. The lighter the filler wads the better and is why I developed the Terminator Hand Cut Styro Wads. Keep in touch and Best Regards, James
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got all of my supplies in for the roll crimped rounds and made a few test shells on Saturday. I took them to the local range yesterday and shot them against a patterning board with LM choke at 40 yrds. I used my CD semi auto and a Mossy 500 that I picked up cheap ($100) at a local pawn shop. The loads are 1 1/4 oz steel with a light weight filler wad on top of 24 g of Clays powder. The over shot wad that I used is one produced by a local hunter from recycled styrofoam. If these things hit ducks as hard as they hit the patterning board, the ducks ain't got a chance. The only problem that I can see will be in me hitting the ducks. Thanks for all of your help Lex, I really think that I am going to like these for hunting this season.---AFG
 

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Excellent! Now we have another loader making up specialized shotshells! Now.....A couple of hints. Spray your wads on the outside with Ms.Moly. Reduces friction. patterns improve after about 3 or 4 rounds. That's due to some moly coating the barrel. Pour your shot in a quart jar, add 1 teaspoon of Motor Mica (from BPI), and roll the jar around to coat all the shot. Best Regards, James
 

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Oh Yes.......Another thing. Take a look at Ballistic Products Inc's "Muli-Metal" wads for all types of shot. I think they might be the best wad around for steel. Best Regards, James
 

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AFG I gots a question, is the load you are working on a published recipe or are you free lancing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Iwill be the first to admit that I don't have enough experience with this style crimp to create my own recipe yet. I am working off of a recipe that I read in an old issue of a Magazine called Modern Hunter. I found the Magazine at a local flea market and the recipe originally called for Green Dot so I had to change the dropped weight to compensate for the difference in the powder. I have never seen another issue of this magazine and the guy who sold it to me said that he got it up north somewhere. I am really just trying things to see what works for me and starting off with lighter powder loads to avoid excessive chamber pressure until I am more experienced with the new style crimp.
 

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The reason I'm asking is that steel shot can be a real bear. It doesn't give like lead does and can and does cause some nasty things to happen in a barrel. Some guys on the other reloading forums have gone to the expense of having Roster pressure test the loads as mad spikes can occur as they found out with what appears on paper a good load. Just wanted to make sure you were taking it safe. Good luck and let us know how they turn out! You wouldnt by chance have a chrony would you?

Too anyone wanting to look into steel reloading you can make some great shells but, be very cautious with steel, those Sam-1 and multi-metal wads are very thick to protect the barrels and the published loads are tested safe as listed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I looked into the dynamics of the steel shot vs lead and understand that there is very little to no compression in the steel. I am using Precision Reloading Inc's European Supersonic Steel wads for 1 1/4 oz, measuring each load on a digital scale, have cut the recommended powder back by 9 grains to reduce chamber pressure and anything else that I could think of to make this a safer operation. I have seen the results of poor load recipes in destroyed shotguns, injured shooters and general chaos and didn't want to be a statistic. The recommended recipe calls for 29 grains of Green Dot and it would normally take 33 grains of Clays to reach the same velocities. I reduced this to 24 grains to start and we did shoot them on a plate style chrony with 1380 - 1395 fps (five randomly selected shells out of 25) as a result. I figure that this load is generating around 11,000 Psi and don't really want anything stronger. I will also never go smaller than the LM choke that I used for patterning and more that likely will hunt with the IC. I hope that I am following all of the safety procedures, but will be more than happy to listen to any suggestions to avoid damage to me or anyone else.---AFG
 

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Sounds good, with so many different people at different levels safety is something that can never be covered too many times.

I would be curious if you dropped the shot charge to 1oz what kind of results you would get? I loaded both steel and hs in 1oz loads to great effect, had them running around the 1550 range in 2.75" shells. I didn't notice what size shot you were using, I used #3's and think 3 or 4's are fine for most shots over dekes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
AFter seeing friends get injured doing stupid stuff, I am a firm believer in safety. I am loading #4 steel at the moment but am open to suggestions. Most of my shots will be over dekes at about 35 to 50 yrds so I figured #4 would be a good load. I will be hunting with an experienced guide/caller on a private lease here in North Texas so I don't have to worry about cross-fire. Anything that a more experienced duck hunter can tell me would be appreciated as I am a novice at ducks. I spent most of my hunting time on quail, grouse, pheasants and dove.---AFG
 
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